R50/53 Front susp. creaks after Powerflex?
#1
Front susp. creaks after Powerflex?
I just replaced my LCA bushings with the Powerflex along with the upper strut bearings and now my front end creaks and thumps. Do the Powerflex have to seat in? I used the supplied grease when installing them. I went back and double checked the hardware that I removed and all was good. I'm really hoping it goes away.
#2
I just replaced my LCA bushings with the Powerflex along with the upper strut bearings and now my front end creaks and thumps. Do the Powerflex have to seat in? I used the supplied grease when installing them. I went back and double checked the hardware that I removed and all was good. I'm really hoping it goes away.
#3
No I kept it in place and removed the LCA. I bought the special tool that pushes out the bushing. By the way that tool worked great! Now I didn’t replace any of the ball joints so could that be it? That didn’t make any noise before but maybe by breaking them loose... we’ll i don’t know.
#4
No I kept it in place and removed the LCA. I bought the special tool that pushes out the bushing. By the way that tool worked great! Now I didn’t replace any of the ball joints so could that be it? That didn’t make any noise before but maybe by breaking them loose... we’ll i don’t know.
#5
That inner ball joint is a PITA it break loose. When I did my LCA, I replaced them because all the pounding I inflicted on it trying to get it out, which I did not. I lowered the sub-frame and removed the whole control arm with the ball joint in place. I bet your problem with the thunking is from the inner ball joint. Lift the car and take a bar to the joint and the frame to see if it moves. Don't know what brand you used for the upper strut bearing, some brands are just bad out of the box, and have you checked fro mushrooming?
#7
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#10
That is a good brand, replaced mine with those. I would first start out with the inner ball joints. I've had no problem with the PowerFlex bushings, tightness in steering and not having to replace them all the time. Are you certain the sound is coming from the bearings?
#11
That is a good brand, replaced mine with those. I would first start out with the inner ball joints. I've had no problem with the PowerFlex bushings, tightness in steering and not having to replace them all the time. Are you certain the sound is coming from the bearings?
#12
Down low would indicate axle or wheel bearing. Have you tried turning the wheel back and forth with the car stopped and the hood opened to hear if it's coming from the upper strut mounts? That would be my next course of action after replacing the Strut Mounts.
#13
Yes I have and doesn’t make any noise. It sounds like over bumps that something is loose like I forgot to tighten a bolt somewhere but have double checked everything and nothing. I’m about to go back out and take it all apart again except the control arm bushings.
#14
If you're going to take it apart, I would replace the inner ball joints. In my experience, that's where the knocking is coming from.I hope it all works out.
#15
#17
#18
In the first 30 secs of this video, you'll hear what a bad strut mount sounds like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmEO66fEHZs
You mentioned the sound was coming from below, can you describe the sounds?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmEO66fEHZs
You mentioned the sound was coming from below, can you describe the sounds?
#19
Thanks for the video my strut bearing did not come with new bearing washers. Well it sounds like something is loose clunking wise on bumps. I’m removing the ball joints right now and might have found a clue. I had to use extreme force when removing the outer ball joint but when I went to remove the inner it popped right off on the second swing of the pickle fork. When I first remover it I had to bang the hell out of it on the pickle fork. I did check the bolt but not with a torque wrench. So should I still completely remove it or put it back and tighten it to specs? Because I’m having trouble removing the bolt underneath the drive shaft?? Maybe I didn’t get the strut bearing seated correctly like he showed in the video??
#20
Yeah, that sounds like you didn't have the ball joint seated. The reason I lowered my sub-frame was to get to that bolt that knocking against the axle. Some people remove the axle, I chose to lower the sub-frame,either way, it's more work. As you've stated you had to bang the heck out of it with the pickle fork, that alone would warrant me to want to change it. Do you want to put everything back together and realized you should have changed those ball joints....
#21
Well I put everything back together and still clunks the same way. Can I drive this for a couple days until my balll joints come it?
#22
A LOT of thick (various thickness available) silicone grease at all places that rub on metal (and plastic to plastic) helps the creaking sounds. Other greases somewhat work, but silicone works the best.
This has been a problem since day one of using this polyurethane plastic material, about 35 years ago.
Mike
This has been a problem since day one of using this polyurethane plastic material, about 35 years ago.
Mike
#23
#24
I had a groaning/chattering sound that turned out to be the grease PF included with the poly bushings. Not enough and way too thin, they were rubber-to-rubber within a few weeks. Took them back off and slathered on some Aqua Shield (aka Aqua Lube) and it's still quiet today. This stuff is as legendary as it is messy, I got it from here. Wear gloves.
#25
I had a groaning/chattering sound that turned out to be the grease PF included with the poly bushings. Not enough and way too thin, they were rubber-to-rubber within a few weeks. Took them back off and slathered on some Aqua Shield (aka Aqua Lube) and it's still quiet today. This stuff is as legendary as it is messy, I got it from here. Wear gloves.
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