I took my engine apart about three to four hundred miles ago. now the last few times I've started it up I've gotten a ticking noise from the engine bay.
Any ideas?
It's plenty loud enough but light and sound so valve train? Oil not getting where it needs to be quick enough? One of the plastic caps on the end of The rocker tip missing? Timing chain tensioner/rails?
It only lasts for a minute.
I'm running 5w40 should I go back to 5w30?

 

I'm assuming you have checked your oil level and made sure it's not low? How many miles on your car? Could it be the idler pulley, or super charger making the noise?

If it goes away when the motor is warm, it's probably not a missing rocker tip or tensioner....but who knows.

 

Yeah oil level was good. I serviced the supercharger at the same time I removed the engine.
The car has around 180k. I didn't change out the idler pulley when I went through the engine. It seemed good, but that could of changed.
I took a quick video, but couldn't put it up since it wasn't formatted correctly.
I didn't really get into listening were it was coming from exactly, since I only had a couple minutes. I just shut it off and took the other car.

 

Keep in mind, those superchargers really aren't designed to be "serviced".....the bearings only last so long before they crap out. Just because you recently put fresh oil in it doesn't really mean much....it could still be a bad SC.

I'd say that you should have a better idea what it is once you spend a little more time finding out where the noise is coming from.

 

For sure totally could be. Would a bad super charger typically only make a noise for the first minute or so though?

 

So I took another listen to try to determine where. It's very hard to tell it sounds almost equally loud on both sides of the engine.
I was listening to some videos of bad superchargers. Didn't really sound like that. They were more of a whirling grinding noise.
It only lasted about 20-30 seconds this time before abruptly stopping. So I didn't have to much time to listen.
It's a tick like the direct injection, just louder.
So it can clearly be heard, to no noise at all in a blink.

 

Maybe you have a weak oil pump And it's taking a while to get oil up to the valvetrain..... causing the clicking noise?

 

It could just be a lifter that’s a little slow filling with oil due to dirtiness. They shouldn’t run down but after 180000 anything is possible.

 

But there are no lifters in an r53, rockers ride on the cam themselves. With the little cap or tappet whatever it's called on the tip.
I was gonna try pouring a little oil in the cap, not that it will get on the majority of the valve train. But to see if there is a difference.

 

I didn’t see a year model listed so just assumed.

 

Anyone want to upload a video for me? I could text it over.
I took another listen it went on for a longer amount of time. If I was to say I'd put more towards the oil filter area. But still hard to tell.
It's rpm dependent, gave it a little gas and it stopped.

 

I'm gonna do new timing chain guides and tensioner. Found a video where it sounded similar to mine.
Since its cheap I'll start there.
Plus gives me the opportunity to look around under the valve cover.
Also does the shafts the rockets ride on have oiling holes? I don't remember putting it in a certain position. So if that is the case, maybe I have the rocker shaft positioned wrong.

 

If it has over 100K miles, using 10-30 would be a better oil for cold starts. Ticking can be due to the cam chain tensioner, not getting enough pressure to tighten the chain, or the tensioner is wearing out. If you buy a new one, make sure it is a tested one, as many out there are no good, from new!

 

Yeah definitely over 100k. I'm using 5w40. But can give 10w30 a try after I toss the new parts in.
Not sure if it was just in my head but felt like it had a little less power when romping on it. The last time I drove it. Just gonna keep it parked till I can swap the parts.
Hoping if there happens to be some less tension on the chain that it didn't jump time or something.

 

If it jumped time you would know it. It wouldn’t run well at all.

 

So I started it last night, since I haven't started it since the weekend.
No noise. Which makes it probably more the case that it was maybe the tensioner, not working correctly or partly stuck ect..
Now my question is should I just try replacing the tensioner for now see what happens.
Or replace the guide rails and tensioner?
Obviously the tensioner takes like 20 minutes so pretty quick.

 

Why are you being a "test pilot" with respect to oil viscosity set by the MINI engineers ?
Manufacturer recommended is 5w/30.
90% of all engine wear occurs during cold start ups....that said, going thicker is a disadvantage to your engine while providing less performance.

 

I was just spitting out ideas when I mentioned it. There pretty much the same, with the 5w40 probably a little better for summer.
But I run it in my bmw, so I usually have some extra quarts. It's the main reason I use it.
Not trying to be a test pilot .

 

Try the tensioner first, but removing the valve cover and inspecting the chain guides is not difficult either.

 

^^^ agreed. That's the plan.

 

he is using 5W40 that's 5 at cold temps just as the manufacture recommends.
the oil you are using is fine for a high mileage car.

 

Here is the deal: High mileage engines are much looser at the bearings, the very light 5wt oil leaks out in the first part of the startup, which causes more wear on the components that starve for oil during the cold start! This is not rocket science, but I have owned several cars/trucks with over 400K miles and still running fine. Do what you think is right. Try to see logic in your actions!
When I say looser, I mean bearings at .005+ not the original .0025 as new. Also the lifter wear and oil pump wear also come in to play!