R50/53 Clutch Slave Cylinder lazy bleeding and brand questions
#1
Clutch Slave Cylinder lazy bleeding and brand questions
There are a few videos out there and posts. All in all it seems like it is a pain in the behind and I like to do as little work as possible since I have so much more to do besides working on this vehicle.
What is the laziest way to do this? I read 2x4 and gravity bleeding overnight as an option. Any ideas?
Also, what brands seem to be most reliable? OEM? Anyone have luck with a cheaper alternative?
Thanks.
What is the laziest way to do this? I read 2x4 and gravity bleeding overnight as an option. Any ideas?
Also, what brands seem to be most reliable? OEM? Anyone have luck with a cheaper alternative?
Thanks.
#2
In my singular experience bleeding the slave cylinder... if you have another person. Wife, kid anyone who can press the clutch when you say to and stop when you say stop. This is an easy 10 minute job as long as you don’t strip out the plastic bleeder valve. I did.
autozone had a Duralast one in stock and 20,000 miles later it’s still working fine.
its also a great opportunity to filter out some of the dirty brake fluid from the brake fluid resovior.
autozone had a Duralast one in stock and 20,000 miles later it’s still working fine.
its also a great opportunity to filter out some of the dirty brake fluid from the brake fluid resovior.
#3
In my singular experience bleeding the slave cylinder... if you have another person. Wife, kid anyone who can press the clutch when you say to and stop when you say stop. This is an easy 10 minute job as long as you don’t strip out the plastic bleeder valve. I did.
autozone had a Duralast one in stock and 20,000 miles later it’s still working fine.
its also a great opportunity to filter out some of the dirty brake fluid from the brake fluid resovior.
autozone had a Duralast one in stock and 20,000 miles later it’s still working fine.
its also a great opportunity to filter out some of the dirty brake fluid from the brake fluid resovior.
Thanks.
#4
I did compress the piston with a thick piece of metal I bought from Home Depot for about 88 cents. Then drilled a matched hole for the bolts to compress and then a large hole in the center to hold the tip of the piston in place. I then cut a thin picece of rubber from some scrap to protect the cylinder and bolted it on to my assembly and then proceeded to bleed on the vehicle.
The following users liked this post:
GenX’r (09-04-2023)
#6
#7
Its my understanding that you place the board between the clutch pedal and the seat or seat mount. Never done this myself but I’ve done this with brake pedals.
Trending Topics
#8
One method or the other compresses the piston and prevents air from welling up behind the bleeder screw and not being bled. 2x4 will use time and gravity, various bracketry options will allow DIY with pressure. Or use a second person. :thumbup:
#10
I just replaced my clutch and my slave cylinder seems fine (no drops) but once I hooked it back up the pedal feels VERY soft. I'm guessing air got in the line.
Should I just replace it? Should I bleed my breaks at the same time? Can I use that pressure bleeder to do the breaks? I think I saw 30 min for if I do the breaks.
200k miles R 50 5 speed Midland with cylinder on top of the gear box.
Thanks guys!
Should I just replace it? Should I bleed my breaks at the same time? Can I use that pressure bleeder to do the breaks? I think I saw 30 min for if I do the breaks.
200k miles R 50 5 speed Midland with cylinder on top of the gear box.
Thanks guys!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rhlanham
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
11
04-23-2012 08:25 PM
Drivetrain Bleeding clutch slave cylinder-Need help
white-pond
Drivetrain (Cooper S)
15
09-26-2006 05:26 AM