R50/53 2006 mini S, surging idle when up to temp.
2006 mini S, surging idle when up to temp.
Hi all,
I’m not a pro forum navigator, so please forgive if my question is covered somewhere else. I’ve just purchased a 2006 mini S, 6 speed, 155K miles. It drives and rides really nice. But, it does have an issue. Once the car gets up to temp, the idle will slowly start to creep up. Once it hits a certain point the idle will begin to surge. Probably 1100-1700 rpm( give or take a little). I first assumed a vacuum leak to be the problem. I’ve not been able to locate a leak. When the car is cold the idle is around 700rpm I’d guess. Sounds/feels like a good idle speed. The car has catback exhaust, CAI, and the replaced the supercharger valve.
There are some codes.
P0507- idle air control system rpm higher than expected
P1498-
P1109-manifold air pressure higher than expected under deceleration
P1692
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you
I’m not a pro forum navigator, so please forgive if my question is covered somewhere else. I’ve just purchased a 2006 mini S, 6 speed, 155K miles. It drives and rides really nice. But, it does have an issue. Once the car gets up to temp, the idle will slowly start to creep up. Once it hits a certain point the idle will begin to surge. Probably 1100-1700 rpm( give or take a little). I first assumed a vacuum leak to be the problem. I’ve not been able to locate a leak. When the car is cold the idle is around 700rpm I’d guess. Sounds/feels like a good idle speed. The car has catback exhaust, CAI, and the replaced the supercharger valve.
There are some codes.
P0507- idle air control system rpm higher than expected
P1498-
P1109-manifold air pressure higher than expected under deceleration
P1692
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you
One way to find vac leaks is to spray carb cleaner on suspect areas. The idle will change when you hit the leak. I suppose WD40 would work too. Other low cost / low risk actions would be to clean the throttle body & maf sensor.
I was curious about the map and TMAP sensors. Are they actually the same sensor? I know they have different purposes, but can they be swapped to see if the issues change? I disconnected the TMAP sensor with the thought that mini would do the same as other vehicles and input a fixed signal. When I disconnected the sensor, the idle did drop like I expected, but it kept surging. I tried spraying for a vacuum leak, no success.
And thanks for the input.
And thanks for the input.
I was curious about the map and TMAP sensors. Are they actually the same sensor? I know they have different purposes, but can they be swapped to see if the issues change? I disconnected the TMAP sensor with the thought that mini would do the same as other vehicles and input a fixed signal. When I disconnected the sensor, the idle did drop like I expected, but it kept surging. I tried spraying for a vacuum leak, no success.
And thanks for the input.
And thanks for the input.
I was curious about the map and TMAP sensors. Are they actually the same sensor? I know they have different purposes, but can they be swapped to see if the issues change? I disconnected the TMAP sensor with the thought that mini would do the same as other vehicles and input a fixed signal. When I disconnected the sensor, the idle did drop like I expected, but it kept surging. I tried spraying for a vacuum leak, no success.
And thanks for the input.
And thanks for the input.
Ive never had much luck diagnosing vacuum leaks with combustibles. So this time out I made a paint can-soldering iron smoke machine and was able to find mine. I did it with charcoal once and the car smelled like BBQ for a week.
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That P1692 is a concern, though, since it points to throttle body electronics. I haven’t seen anyone (searching NAM say they fixed that one by fixing a vacuum leak first).
Another option would be to be to get a Scangauge which can at least show you TMAP pressure. I watched mine go to 0.0 when it lost connection, and when I had a totally dead sensor. I don’t know if it can show the MAP value, too. I’ve also gotten the ISTA software running with the correct cable and can run diagnostic procedures. Basically, it tests the sensors in place and lets you see the provided voltage converted to pressure, and tells you the acceptable range. I use it a lot. Took awhile to get working, but I can you through it if you’re interested.
Just google “test map sensor” and you’ll find some decent videos. You need a multimeter, a vacuum pump and a 5v power supply. I’m guessing based on your codes, it’s not those sensors. I’d be hopeful it’s a vacuum leak, maybe for the line that runs up to the MAP sensor, which is notorious for leaking, or one of the lines running to the supercharger manifold, which are notorious for leaking, or the line running to the throttle body, which is notorious for leaking. But it’s probbaly not the brake booster.
That P1692 is a concern, though, since it points to throttle body electronics. I haven’t seen anyone (searching NAM say they fixed that one by fixing a vacuum leak first).
Another option would be to be to get a Scangauge which can at least show you TMAP pressure. I watched mine go to 0.0 when it lost connection, and when I had a totally dead sensor. I don’t know if it can show the MAP value, too. I’ve also gotten the ISTA software running with the correct cable and can run diagnostic procedures. Basically, it tests the sensors in place and lets you see the provided voltage converted to pressure, and tells you the acceptable range. I use it a lot. Took awhile to get working, but I can you through it if you’re interested.
That P1692 is a concern, though, since it points to throttle body electronics. I haven’t seen anyone (searching NAM say they fixed that one by fixing a vacuum leak first).
Another option would be to be to get a Scangauge which can at least show you TMAP pressure. I watched mine go to 0.0 when it lost connection, and when I had a totally dead sensor. I don’t know if it can show the MAP value, too. I’ve also gotten the ISTA software running with the correct cable and can run diagnostic procedures. Basically, it tests the sensors in place and lets you see the provided voltage converted to pressure, and tells you the acceptable range. I use it a lot. Took awhile to get working, but I can you through it if you’re interested.
Alright, smoke test revealed no leaks. I did find something that got me going down a path. When the idle surges the throttle body doesn’t move. I cleaned the throttle body (just because I was there). I know the previous owner installed a detroit tuned supercharger bypass valve. So I started thinking maybe they messed up. One thing I tried that I found interesting. I put the palm of my hand over the throttle body. Now, in my experience the car should start to stumble and try to die. But, my little mini just sat there and didn’t change a thing. I could feel the vacuum against my hand. But there wasn’t a change in the idle or anything. I’m planning on retracing the steps they were supposed to use to install the valve. Maybe I’ll find where the little 53 is getting air from.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Solved?
Alright, smoke test revealed no leaks. I did find something that got me going down a path. When the idle surges the throttle body doesn’t move. I cleaned the throttle body (just because I was there). I know the previous owner installed a detroit tuned supercharger bypass valve. So I started thinking maybe they messed up. One thing I tried that I found interesting. I put the palm of my hand over the throttle body. Now, in my experience the car should start to stumble and try to die. But, my little mini just sat there and didn’t change a thing. I could feel the vacuum against my hand. But there wasn’t a change in the idle or anything. I’m planning on retracing the steps they were supposed to use to install the valve. Maybe I’ll find where the little 53 is getting air from.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
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