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Had some issues, replaced the head and timing components. Cranked the engine, NO oil pressure. Dropped the Pan, no suction at the pickup, Removed the pickup, no suction at the opening(did this to rule out plugged pickup or plugged screen). I have ordered a new timing chain cover / Oil pump.
What causes the pump to turn on the crank? there is nothing keyed,.. Maybe i am missing something....
Did you have the oil pump cover off? If so did you remember the oil pressure regulator spring?
How long did you crank the engine? It can take several seconds of the engine running to get pressure if the pump isn't primed.
Try cranking several times with the coil disconnected. Can also mount a tee at the sending unit and attach a mechanical gauge to see if you're getting any pressure.
Thanks for the response. I did not take the oil pump cover off when i removed the timing chain cover. I started the engine, and the oil light came on immediately. I then removed the valve cover and stated the engine, no oil was circulating through the head. I then dropped the pan and cranked it quite a few times to try and get pressure going... i really think the pump was not turning to create suction.
I checked to ensure the spring was there prior to removing the timing cover, yet again.... I should still get suction at the sump even if that was missing though right?.....
I have ordered a new timing chain cover with the pump and all seals. I will hopefully have it back together this weekend.
So the pump just uses friction from the crank to spin? Doesnt seem practical or reliable...
If you don't see what I'm talking about, I have a new oil pump and housing here, along with the engine I pulled out of my car, I'll get a couple pictures tomorrow if I remember
I went outside and inspected the crank. I saw there are two flat sides opposite each other. I would think had i not put the cover on correctly (aligned the pump with these flat sides) the cover would not have gone on correctly and sealed (which it did. I checked to make sure it was flush and torqued.).
Thanks again for the assistance. I have a new pump and harmonic balancer that will be here Thursday.. Will try and re assemble Saturday.
I couldn't remember if there was one or two flat sides for the oil pump, and yes, the housing would not be on correctly if you didn't line up the flats.
Don't install the new pump dry, either pack it up with some white lithium grease, or use some thick oil additive like STP, or something similar. Try and fill up the oil passages best you can
I had to put a new "used" wrecking yard motor in my R52 earlier this year, I couldn't get oil pressure when I was testing compression with the engine sitting in the back of my truck. I had to close off all the holes in the engine assembly and pressurize the inside of the engine with my compressor for about 30 seconds...... I finally got 20 pounds of oil pressure while cranking the engine over..... you may have to do something similar
I am going to re assemble tomorrow. I was reading about priming the pump.... Would it work to fill it with oil, then use some petroleum jelly to hold the oil in the pump during the assembly? Thats what i used in my older cars i assembled...
ok.. put it partially back together, I put the new oil pump on... had to work it to get it to align, so i was sure it aligned. I cranked it for a few seconds and still didnt feel any suction from the oil pickup. Should there be enough suction that i should feel it there?
You may not feel any suction while cranking. I would put it together just enough to get it started and then see what pressure it has while running. Put a mechanical oil gauge in place of the sending unit on the housing
Definitely put a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it before you start it. You don’t want to run it long without oil pressure. If you don’t get oil pressure within 5 seconds of starting then shut it off. At idle your engine can have as little as 10 psi. The sending units are set at around 7 psi if I remember correctly.
