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Hey all...TIA for any input.
My 2004 S (191k miles) has been a great reliable fun little car for the 6 months I've been running it. Given to me by my brother.
My question is in regards to the water temp gauge and thinking it's not working properly. If I'm stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for more than 10min I'll see steam coming from the front hood area. I DO KNOW my coolant expansion tank has a leak at its' seam.....I simply am wondering why my temp gauge doesn't rise above its normal operating point. The gauge seems to be working at startup and rises slowly to its normal reading...just a nudge under its' halfway mark. When I KNOW it's running hot, the gauge doesn't rise any higher. Am I just seeing my leak? Is the temp not actually getting that hot in traffic? Bad gauge...? Sensor ? The Mini has never overheated to the point of the engine quitting and wouldn't allow that anyway.
seems the gauge should be more responsive.
I had a similar experience and from what I found it seems that BMW designed the temp gauge to have a large variance range, meaning that essentially it only has 3 positions,
perhaps inspired by Lucas?
Sorry,
couldn't resist!
It seems that the stock gauge reads only:
cold --- normal operating temp --- pegged red
:
I'm unsure at what temp triggers the red alert?
I was paranoid like you because I knew my car seemed to be running hot but my temp gauge kept pegged dead center.
Found the "secret menu" and obtained accurate temps to monitor while stuck in rush hour.
To find the secret menu:
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the
odometer reset button with one hand.
2. While holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first
click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “TEST”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19
and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again.
When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again.
Coolant systems are designed to work under pressure. With a leak the system will not havemproper cooling capacity. The leak at the expansion tank is probably leaking down onto the exhaust.
I DO KNOW my coolant expansion tank has a leak at its' seam.....
When the temp gauge reaches the high point - triggering the light, it's almost too late at that point.
I'd recommend you get on replacing that inexpensive expansion tank with the known leak poste-haste, BEFORE you have a very expensive major failure such as a blown head gasket with a warped head as a result.
Our temp gauges are really just idiot lights disguised as a gauge. The gauge will show normal operating temperature, usually just below the halfway mark, for a wide range of temperatures until the engine overheats, when it then moves to the upper register. There are a few threads with examples of actual temperatures when the gauge stays fixed at the "normal" position.. I' have a smartphone app with an OBD II reader so I know what my temperature is.,Normal for my 2003 S is 199 deg. F and has gone as high as 237 deg. F, all while the temp gauge remains fixed at the just below half mark.
Tank has been ordered....I went with another plastic unit....if it doesn't outlast the car I'll be po'd.
With your help here I can now keep an eye on temps....thanks alot gents.
Don't EVER trust the stock MINI gauge. They are what MINI calls "dampened" which means they don't move much as they want it to appear normal so customers don't constantly bring it in thinking something is wrong.
The stock gauge will get to half about 170 and won't move above half until it is about 235 so if it moves over half it is already too late and overheating. This is why we see so many ruined engines as people always say I just drove 4 more miles after it moved off half, but since it was already overheating before it moved they get to buy an engine.
Best thing to do is get a gauge like a scangauge that reads the real temp off the ECU and you will know what it really is far before it's too late. https://www.waymotorworks.com/scangauge-ii.html
Where pray tell does one amount that blocky monstrosity of a gauge? So here is one more item for the “con” list for not buying another MINI. Never heard of such a thing as allowing an engine to climb 65 degrees in temp before warning the driver! Why not just buy a pod of gauges and physically connect them to the engine?
Tgriffithjr,
Way's explanation of how the gauge works is common to ALL BMW cars with temp gauges, not just the MINI. Most MINI auxiliary gauges are mounted either side of the tach using various mounting systems
Don't EVER trust the stock MINI gauge. They are what MINI calls "dampened" which means they don't move much as they want it to appear normal so customers don't constantly bring it in thinking something is wrong.
The stock gauge will get to half about 170 and won't move above half until it is about 235 so if it moves over half it is already too late and overheating. This is why we see so many ruined engines as people always say I just drove 4 more miles after it moved off half, but since it was already overheating before it moved they get to buy an engine.
Best thing to do is get a gauge like a scangauge that reads the real temp off the ECU and you will know what it really is far before it's too late. https://www.waymotorworks.com/scangauge-ii.html
What can the Scangauge monitor on the R53?
Engine Temp.
Oil temp.
I assume it would need a probe to get A/F ?
My car has a scanguage mounted with velcro on the left corner of my dash. Just note that once you have one, every body wants to borrow it to scan codes and reset them on their own cars.
Mine is set to read supercharger boost, Cold Intake Air temp, Coolant Water Temp (the C on the gauge is for Celsius) , and ignition timing. There are lots others you can choose from. The neat thing is, you can actually see the temperatures come down when the radiator fan kicks in.
I had a similar experience and from what I found it seems that BMW designed the temp gauge to have a large variance range, meaning that essentially it only has 3 positions,
perhaps inspired by Lucas?
Sorry,
couldn't resist!
It seems that the stock gauge reads only:
cold --- normal operating temp --- pegged red
:
I'm unsure at what temp triggers the red alert?
I was paranoid like you because I knew my car seemed to be running hot but my temp gauge kept pegged dead center.
Found the "secret menu" and obtained accurate temps to monitor while stuck in rush hour.
To find the secret menu:
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the
odometer reset button with one hand.
2. While holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first
click) with the other hand. The screen will have a number and the word “TEST”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19
and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again.
When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again.
5. You are now in the system.
6. Scroll through to 7.0 - actual coolant temp.
I have an early 2002 R53 with no options.
I cannot persuade the secret menu to display the temperature.
My car has the basic dashboard, so no Chrono Pack or whatever it's called. eg it runs the bulb check but there's nowhere to display any result!
Is there another way to see the temperature? &, if I can get it to work, what are the other displays 1-6?
My mini was having a similar issue. Boiling out but never hot. Turned out to be 2 issues. First low speed fan resistor was out. Even though I just replaced it like 3 months ago. So fan not turning on until it was 220. Which never happens unles I was stuck in traffic and no air moving. Second was pressure cap was bad. I replaced the pressure cap. That solved part of my problem. For now if I see the temp gauge creep up to 200 and I am in traffic, I turn on the AC. This forces the fan on before 220 and keeps my temp at 200. Now to do the resistor mod. And fix all the issues.
My mini was having a similar issue. Boiling out but never hot. Turned out to be 2 issues. First low speed fan resistor was out. Even though I just replaced it like 3 months ago. So fan not turning on until it was 220. Which never happens unles I was stuck in traffic and no air moving. Second was pressure cap was bad. I replaced the pressure cap. That solved part of my problem. For now if I see the temp gauge creep up to 200 and I am in traffic, I turn on the AC. This forces the fan on before 220 and keeps my temp at 200. Now to do the resistor mod. And fix all the issues.
When you say you saw the temp creep up to 220 I assume you had an aftermarket gauge that was monitoring this and not the supposed idiot gauge that came with the vehicle?
I have an early 2002 R53 with no options.
I cannot persuade the secret menu to display the temperature.
My car has the basic dashboard, so no Chrono Pack or whatever it's called. eg it runs the bulb check but there's nowhere to display any result!
Is there another way to see the temperature? &, if I can get it to work, what are the other displays 1-6?
My car is an 06 and the procedure works for me, unsure if it does this on an 02?
I'm still a n00b and do much research etc --- came across this option when dealing with my coolant problem, and it worked to obtain accurate temps for monitoring. Once you've set it, it will stay in that parameter until the ignition is turned off, so I could keep an eye on my temps during a 1.5 hour commute in morning rush hour. Confirmed to me that my fans were working correctly and all was well.
There are more options on the odo digi display also, but I've only really used the coolant temp option.
There seems to be quite a few settings about tempature viewing and gauge reading in NCS explorer; does anyone know if we can change settings in there for the gauge to reflect a more “fluctuating” reading?
Engine Temp.
Oil temp.
I assume it would need a probe to get A/F ?
I use it for MPH, Coolant temp, intake air temp, voltage
But you can do boost, timing, open or closed loop, MAP, and a few more. But for the price and ease of use I love it.
