Greetings fellow MINI lovers. I have been lurking around here for a while now and I have assimilated a lot of info and for that I thank you all. I now seek input from the collective.

My 03 S overheated April 30. Once it cooled down it would start ok and run strong. Within minutes though the temp gauge would shoot up and I would have to shut it down. I had it towed to the dealer and it is still there. They have checked out all the fuses and relays, replaced the thermostat, water pump, cylinder head and gasket, all under warranty but it is still overheating. Heard today they are talking about replacing the engine hopefully under warranty.

The only think I can think of is that there must be something that they can’t purge restricting the coolant flow through the engine block. If there is restriction then which came first? Overheating causing block restriction or block restriction causing overheating?

 

So they determined it's definitely not the PS fan issue?

 

I brought it up and they say they checked it.

 

My 2002 MCS with 56k was also overheating. If you were traveling at least 25 MPH it would never get hot but after about 20 minutes in stop and go freeway traffic, or just sitting idling, it pegged the temp gauge. It was definitely the PS fan that was out and then the main radiator fan never came on because of the way this circuit was wired. I heard that this issue was fixed in the 2003MY cars. Got a new PS fan - overheating problem over. Never had an issue with the steering.

 

I'd guess the obstruction came first, then the overheating, then dead motor! Heck, if they're stumped, get the free motor!

Matt

 

A new motor is on the way courtesy of MINI! They say I should be rolling in 7 - 10 days. We will see.

 

But the drag is you'll have to be patient through a new brake in period!

Matt

 

"The bad news is we can't find the problem. The good news is you get a brand new engine (with '05 hp) for free."
I could deal with a new break-in for that!

 

Oh man youre soooooo lucky. You should try and get them to order LSD with it and you pay the diff. Although, beggers cant be choosers. GOOD DEAL MAN!!!!

 

Since I bought the car used this will be my first break in of a MC motor so I am looking forward to it. I rode motorcycles for a lot of years growing up and there was a period of time when I and three other guys I knew got the same make and model motorcycles within months of each other. They were 350cc 4cyl Hondas. We all broke them in differently. The fastest one was rode hard from day one. It was shown no mercy. We would trade bikes and race and whoever was on the fast bike would win. The slowest one never exceed the rpm limit the manufacture recommended and it was a dog. The other two were twisted up to redline occasionally during break in and they were always fighting for second. I have always wondered if some of the HP output & ¼ time differences we see between identical MC’s & MCS’s is related to how they were broken in.

 

I know I read a post on this forum or mini2 about differring theories on what is the best way to break in a new motor.... there was one theory about giving it a good thrashing...but if you break it in against what the owner's manual says,will it invalidate the warranty? ( although how could they know )

 

Speaking purely from a "makes sense in MY head" perspective. Since break-in is the period during which the inner surfaces of the engine are worn down to fit together, the engine that is routinely thrashed would have a great deal more wear than the one that was driven nicely. This would lead to larger clearances between components (rings/pistons/cyl walls, etc.) Larger clearances create less friction and drag which reduces parasitic losses in the engine, which makes the engine more efficient and create more useable horsepower. So short term thrashing during break-in = faster. Long term, larger clearances allow for more movement off axis which will in time cause more wear on internal components shortening the overall life of the engine. While the break-in period might be annoying and doing it properly may reduce the short term performance of the car, longevity is your reward. Cscargo, any word on whether all those bikes are still on the road and which ones (if any) are having mechanical problems?

 

Soofle, here is a thread you might find interesting. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...engine+breakin

I found especially interesting this link in the above thread. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

As for those bikes, that was a long time ago and far far away.

 

That is interesting. I might even be true. But to be perfectly honest, i dont think i have the guts to challenge the time tested method on my 25,000 dollar investment. or for that matter my 3k bike. Maybe its the poor college kid in me (or out of me, i havent actually graduated yet) but i can't afford to take that kind of a chance on something so expensive based on a small percentage of people that have had success. That being said, if it is true, and enough properly collected data is presented, i like to think im open minded enough to change my mind.