Do I send my ECU to Jan for tuning

 

No. You have a couple options.
1 buy the flash tool from RMW then you can set up a time with Jan to take your car to a dyno where he can do a remote tune for you
2 depending where you are there may be a tuning event where Jan comes out and tunes a bunch of cars over a 2-3 day period. This is what I did several years ago.
one thing you need to do before getting a tune is larger injectors. The stock S ones are 340 and pretty much maxed out already. I recommend upgrading at least to the JCW which is 380. If you are planning more mods then opt for the larger injectors from RMW.

 

Jan might rent you the tool, never hurts to ask.

 

 

I have his tune. You download the existing ecu data and email it to him along with a list of any engine modifications you have. He will then create a tune and email it back to you. You then download it.

I did remove the power steering fuse and disconnected my headlights to minimize battery drain while the new tune is loading. There may be some hiccups but he works with you.

 

You can also use Bytetronik who can do custom remote tunes also.

The advantages to the Bytetronik is you are not locked to a tuner, The FA software can reset adaptives, sync the immobilizer, and a few other helpful items.

 

 

Depends on your mods. Our customers typically go straight to the Bosch 550s. We have a package daeal (FA53 self-tuning kit with Bosch 550cc injectors for $795).

 

You don't need a tune to "take advantage" of the mods. You would want a tune if you are trying to extract more power or smooth things out. But also keep in mind if you are going to do more mods you should do the mods first then get a tune with everything on it. That way you don't have to retune each time you change it.

 

 

 

A couple of things to remember/consider:

1,) The JCW head flows about 20 more cfm of air than the stock S head. It is no where near a Big Valve head that flows almost 80 more cfm.
2.) The JCW does have an upgraded exhaust system.
3.) The JCW pulley is around 11.5% smaller than the S pulley so with your 15% you will be spinning the supercharger about 400 rpms faster at redline that will make more boost. The thread below has spreadsheets and graphs on the supercharger and pulleys. There are smaller pulleys out there and Way Motors even has a 16%. The rule of thumb on boost (there are other variables that come into play) is that if you increase the boost by 15 psi you double the horsepower. The thread below also discusses the heat that the additional supercharger revs will produce as well as what some may call "wives tales."

The "tuner instrument" usually can only handle one ECU and that ECU is "imprinted" on it. Most have no way to "clear" the imprint. Any body with the correct connection and knowledge can re-program the ECU.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...and-boost.html

 

The only thing you might want to add to your mod list is a cat back exhaust. With those mods you should be right around 175-180 whp without a tune and 200whp with one. The biggest thing with the tune is the driveability of the car. It just pulls so smooth all the way up to redline. Different sized pulleys won't make a difference in power really. It'll move your powerband however. The smaller the pulley the lower the powerband. I ran a 17% for several years with no problems. Never tracked or autocrossed the car but ran it to red line quite often.