Did your parts show up?

 

Part showed up, but still doesn’t work.

Im goin to tow it home so I’m not in the snow, but until I get my OBD reader hooked up I have no idea what to do or what’s wrong. Gotta be a loose wire or something along that line.

 

I will switch out the crank seal and bolt tomorrow.
What is the crank pully bolt supposed to be torqued to? Thank you everyone especially the MVP that was messaging me several times a day. I fully intend on delivering knowledge to this community of what I’ve done.

I still have a vapor leak and ticking in the morning. It sounds like random slapping on occasion near the injectors, maybe I need a rebuild, but Clank is in excellent condition comparably. I’ll send your tool back tomorrow evening or Monday morning (because i work early and late hours).

This ground wire being a little loose caused a P2300 Code and a non start/non response to ignition.

 

Congratulations on the work. Glad I could help you out. What type of oil are you running?
Bolt torque is 85 foot pound or 115 nm.

 

Record the sound an post on here an let's see what it may be

 

5w - 30 synthetic euro blend Pensoil

I'll record it, but I can only do so with my phone, and I don't think the noise comes through the same over the phone. But at least now when 1 million people tell me it's the timing chain I can confidently say no, it is not.

 

I use liqui molly. Really good stuff. On you next change try it an there ceratec additive. Plus there flush. Great stuff .

 

 

I will likely follow through with all that next change. Thanks. I'mma take it easy for the first time in several months now, and study tomorrow morning, then do the crank seal and bolt before sending off your tool. Msg your address again just for clarification and because idk what happened to that box.

I'll upload a video tomorrow too if i think about it.

 

SHould i just sand the studs on my old coil pack or replace it? I got a $16 pack from ebat that seems to work, but the original bolts don’t fit, and the bolts don’t fit the slightly nicer pack from autozone either.

 

Nah. I just got some replacement bolts from lowes.

 

The arm depth is shorter, but the thread depth is the same.

 

The old plugs are gaped to .44 but new ones are .34

 

Looks like the gap was off on those older ones.

 

yeah, I have ignited the engine twice and there's been no ticking at start.

I'll send out your tool Monday, and hopefully have a comprehensive over what I did and pitfalls to avoid by Tuesday. Thanks for the help and patients. I have other projects on this car, but I don't wana muddle this thread any more than I have. Do you mind if I message you when i get around to those projects?

 

Sure no problem at all. Glad I could help you out.

 

i took a video this morning, but this video from a year ago sounds more accurate. I’ve changed the timing chain and all it’s componets.

 

There’s only one person helping me and this thread has served its purpose so I’ll make a new one elsewhere. I will post a new thread about how to replace the timing chain with succinct instructions once my Cooper is not acting like a monkeys uncle

 

To me, this sounds like your valve lash needs adjustment. It sounds like valvetrain noise this time.

Can you take a video where the Z-axis changes (height in relation to motor [oil pan, block, head])? It doesn’t sound anything like rod bearings, but that noise will come from the pan. Timing will sound mid-block. Valvetrain will come from the head.

Because the timing was done, the cams may be pulled “off” ever so slightly - requiring a valve adjustment to keep everything quiet.

https://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-63691.html

A tool like this will help you locate the source of the noise. The rod acts as a magnifier, so wherever it’s loudest, is the source of your noise.

 

My friend! Thank you for your input, because I also thought it was the lashers some two years ago. Some kind of work by the previous owner was done to the chain evident by the liquid paper mark on the cam gear, so you may be on to something. What I learned was that the R50 rocker arms are automatically adjusted by oil pressure, however bad oil has been ran through here. The previous owner in response to my question about oil change was “well, we always filled it back up.” Meaning he never changed the oil or filter as evedent by the confetti in the oil on its first change.

I burned oil because I didn’t realize it had gotten low after I replaced the tensioner a couple of months ago. I’m gonna change the tensioner again tonight with a new one, and maybe order new rocker arms.

 

I haven’t read every last word in the thread, but are you verifying that you have correct oil pressure? I suggest an external gauge as the OEM one only triggers when pressure drops below 3.xx PSI (useless).

What I’m thinking is that there may be an issue with the oil return check valve inside the oil filter housing assembly. It’s a little plastic piece and can fail, resulting in low / basically-no oil pressure.

I would pull the valve cover off and poke around with a feeler gauge.

Are you familiar with: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r53-cooper-s-hat/

Full online workshop service & technical manuals.

 

Good sir! Thank you for the quick response.

i actually broke the cheap springy black piece fingering it when I first got the R50 during its first oil change in years. It broke easily and I replaced the oil filter housing because the black piece isn’t serviceable.

You are talking about the black spring loaded valve inside the oil filter housing on the back of the engine that sits under the oil filter, right?

btw most of the thread is about replacing the timing chain which I did successfully and no slapping occurred for a day. Little more on the second, and more so today. It goes away when the engine is warmed and driven just a couple feet, but I have a feeling it’s gonna come back ten fold by my final shift this weekend. GG!

 

That is what I'm talking about, yes.

I'm not sure what, then. It certainly sounds like an oiling issue to me, however. I don't think that I'd recommend driving it until you can confirm that you have adequate oil pressure.

 

Rocker arms are $4.20 a piece at Pick n pull so I’m gonna try to pick those Monday.

 

This is what he is referring too.