R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Pre-purchase inspection looks bad... (long)

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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 09:55 PM
  #1  
aboveliquidice's Avatar
aboveliquidice
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Pre-purchase inspection looks bad... (long)

Hi all. After giving away my 2010 R56 to a family member in need, I'm on the hunt for low-cost replacement. I may have found one, but the PPI found some really rough spots. The info:

2006 MCS with 109k miles. The car appears to have most options aside from xenon headlights. It has chromeline interior, British Racing Green, black leather, heated seats, new (aftermarket) radio with Bluetooth streaming, etc. it also has the chrono pack, which is especially good looking.

I noted a chime-like sound on the test drive, which proved to be correct. The super charger is making a lot of noise and will likely fail soon. The report also noted the clutch was worn. It felt good to me actually, but the release point is low to the ground. Finally, oil leaks were noted at 4 different locations.

The asking price was initially $4900. We negotiated to 4K before the PPI. Knowing these issues, I was thinking of offering $2500. The adjustment is for a portion of the cost to fix all of the issues.

So the question...

1. Would you walk away or make an updated offer? I'm not sure, but leaning towards the updated offer. I'd appreciate any and all input.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 05:00 AM
  #2  
Whine not Walnuts's Avatar
Whine not Walnuts
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Are you doing your own wrenching? The clutch, supercharger, oil leaks (power steering hoses, o-ring, crank seal etc) and other normal maintenance could be upwards of $4-5k.

Others will chime in.

How much do you like to be punished???????
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 05:20 AM
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The real questions is this: Are you willing to deal with the known issues after purchasing the car?

If the answer to the question above is "Yes", then go into negotiations with that in mind. If the answer is "No", then try to find another car with less problems.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 05:32 AM
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They'll tell you to pound sand for $2500. They will just sell it to someone who isn't as thorough.

Realistically, even with those problems you could probably drive it for years. Absolutely use them in negotiations. but halving the price isn't likely.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 05:42 AM
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The supercharger is really the only "big" thing. Clutch I'd work with him on since you said it felt good - shop is probably just covering their butt. Won't a refurb S/C set you back almost a grand? Plus install.

I agree with iwashmycar. They'll probably say no and hope for a better offer down the line.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by aboveliquidice
So the question...

1. Would you walk away or make an updated offer? I'm not sure, but leaning towards the updated offer. I'd appreciate any and all input.
I'd give him $1,000. That's enough to guarantee it is worth the hassle and you won't lose money when you find out everything else that is wrong with it...

Originally Posted by r53coop
How much do you like to be punished???????
That's a little personal, isn't it?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 06:06 AM
  #7  
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Whine not Walnuts
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[QUOTE=Derek86;

That's a little personal, isn't it? [/QUOTE]

Perhaps but not prohibited.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 10:32 AM
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Thank you for all of the replies. I left the PPI report in the car when I dropped it off. The owner texted me later and asked my thoughts. I explained the costs and way ahead from my perspective. No response yet. He's a business owner with money but not a lot of time. Not sure if he knew the issues or not. If he rejects the offer, we both walk away without issue. I do plan to work on the car. However, I don't pull motors or transmissions. Some of this work is simply beyond my skills or desire to accomplish. Two other local minis look to be of similar appointment... I think we'll be fine no matter what. I'll be sure to post up the next possible mini purchase
 
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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by aboveliquidice
Finally, oil leaks were noted at 4 different locations.
Let me guess: oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, crank position sensor o-ring and oil filter housing gasket. As much as I hate to say it, they all do that. All doable for someone willing and able to turn wrenches.

Originally Posted by aboveliquidice
Would you walk away or make an updated offer? I'm not sure, but leaning towards the updated offer. I'd appreciate any and all input.
I'd try an updated offer, but $2500 would probably kill any chance of a deal. My car had 125k on it when I bought it with most of the same issues. I fixed the issues over the course of a year and a half. I now have 174k on the car.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2017 | 05:59 AM
  #10  
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Think about a few things:
The chrono pack cars are rarer than others.
An "s" model is in demand.
All usually need oil leak maintenance, which is not such a big deal.
Miles seem low to me and an 06 MCS is the banner year for the gen 1, with the W11 engine.
When buying older cars, you can expect wear and tear. At eleven plus years. Normal miles would be over 130K miles!
You need to plan to put in money/sweat at this age.
Negotiate your best price and go from there.
Does the car drive well?
Does it have decent power?
The clutch pedal height is not as important, as if it is slipping. It may just need a new slave/master for clutch (not that big of a deal)
Is there rust? if so, that would be the bigger problem.
Does it handle well?
Look at the value to you and price accordingly!
I sell a lot of these and typically, I sell them $4500 to $5500, in pretty good condition.(with higher miles)
 
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 03:48 AM
  #11  
aboveliquidice's Avatar
aboveliquidice
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Originally Posted by ItsmeWayne
Think about a few things:
The chrono pack cars are rarer than others.
An "s" model is in demand.
All usually need oil leak maintenance, which is not such a big deal.
Miles seem low to me and an 06 MCS is the banner year for the gen 1, with the W11 engine.
When buying older cars, you can expect wear and tear. At eleven plus years. Normal miles would be over 130K miles!
You need to plan to put in money/sweat at this age.
Negotiate your best price and go from there.
Does the car drive well?
Does it have decent power?
The clutch pedal height is not as important, as if it is slipping. It may just need a new slave/master for clutch (not that big of a deal)
Is there rust? if so, that would be the bigger problem.
Does it handle well?
Look at the value to you and price accordingly!
I sell a lot of these and typically, I sell them $4500 to $5500, in pretty good condition.(with higher miles)
I agree. I just need the price a little lower than the 4K it is right now. I'll ping the owner after Xmas.

Thanks for all of the replies. There is another Mini with similar spec, 80k miles, for 6500. It's a much cleaner car... but an auto (sigh). Happy holidays to all
 
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 09:47 AM
  #12  
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ItsmeWayne
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I would stay away from and auto, if you can! The 6 spd manual is pretty bullet proof!
Best of luck in your search!
Keep us posted.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 10:04 AM
  #13  
aboveliquidice's Avatar
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I had heard issues with the CVT... Was 5here an issue with the steptronic?
 
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 10:10 AM
  #14  
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ItsmeWayne
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Not as many problems as the base model, but still can have issues! If you can deal with the manual, you will be miles ahead and without the worry that can come with the automatics.
I don't hate automatics, but the Mini Cooper S, REALLY COMES TO LIFE WITH THE STANDARD 6 SPEED!
 
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 10:20 AM
  #15  
MINIKB's Avatar
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Like other stated, those are all normal problems that you will have to address any way one way or the other.

I would be paying more attention to the condition of the body / paint / interior.

I also do not trust PPIs that much unless you know the shop pretty well. I have experiences in the past when one shop would say the car needs $5K worth of work and the other one would tell me it is in excellent condition.

The problems this car have appears to be usual mini wear and tear items.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 08:45 PM
  #16  
aboveliquidice's Avatar
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Update!!!

The buyer and I were able to make a deal... I've got a new to me 2006 MCS manual with 109k miles. Definitely has some rough spots, but I'm pretty happy. Purchased a valeo clutch kit and working on a second hand SC as well. I've got some vibrations and a burning smell to work out, but I'm super happy.

Thank you so much for the assistance.

If you were going to replace a clutch and an SC and those 4 major leaks, what else would you get done? Appreciate any recommendations
 

Last edited by aboveliquidice; Jan 2, 2018 at 08:46 PM. Reason: More info...
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 11:24 AM
  #17  
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Did you ever confirm where the leaks were?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 08:00 PM
  #18  
aboveliquidice's Avatar
aboveliquidice
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Originally Posted by CSP
Did you ever confirm where the leaks were?
Valve cover gasket, engine oil pan gasket, engine oil cooler gasket (no idea where this is), and the oil filter gasket. Will have to see if it is actually the crank position sensor o-ring...
 
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Old Jan 5, 2018 | 04:46 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by aboveliquidice
The buyer and I were able to make a deal... I've got a new to me 2006 MCS manual with 109k miles. Definitely has some rough spots, but I'm pretty happy. Purchased a valeo clutch kit and working on a second hand SC as well. I've got some vibrations and a burning smell to work out, but I'm super happy.

Thank you so much for the assistance.

If you were going to replace a clutch and an SC and those 4 major leaks, what else would you get done? Appreciate any recommendations
I would replace the waterpump while in there, since it is right by the supercharger. Does your MIN have a limited slip differential? With the transmission out, it may be worth it to throw in a Quaife or Wavetrac unit. I would also consider replacing the PS hoses. Have fun and let's see photos!
 
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