R50/53 CAI Filter Cleaning
CAI Filter Cleaning
Hey everyone -- 5 years and ~60k miles ago I installed a DDM Works CAI on my 04 R53. Now I finally got around to reading and realizing that you are supposed to actually clean that filter once in a while. Unfortunately, my M7 strut bar has been screwed on so tight by various shops over the years that the bolts are nearly stripped (not totally ruined though) and I can't unscrew them by hand. The bar blocks my ability to access the CAI.
Is it worth taking to a shop and having them take it off and clean the filter for me (maybe during my next oil change)? I don't care if its an easy job to do myself normally... if they charge 50 bucks for it fine. Mostly just wondering how important it is to get that filter cleaned/changed. I don't live in the desert (North NJ) but 5 years is a long time in any climate.
Thanks!
Is it worth taking to a shop and having them take it off and clean the filter for me (maybe during my next oil change)? I don't care if its an easy job to do myself normally... if they charge 50 bucks for it fine. Mostly just wondering how important it is to get that filter cleaned/changed. I don't live in the desert (North NJ) but 5 years is a long time in any climate.
Thanks!
Not a good situation....recently seen an intercooler caked with debris from a foam filter which had not been properly maintained.....which also means dirt and debris has been making its way into your engine.I would attend to this at your soonest...and at this juncture, I would swap out the foam filter for new one from DDM....if the filter has been in there this long, it wont be worth cleaning.
Figured as much, any preference between the Uni Foam and K&N?
http://www.ddmworks.com/Filters-for-...kes_p_160.html
http://www.ddmworks.com/Filters-for-...kes_p_160.html
UNI - if foam.
The K&N kit is for paper style filters and not to be used with Foam.
But I would not bother with even dolling out the cash for a 30 dollar kit. You WILL need a new filter, and they come pre-oiled....
The K&N kit is for paper style filters and not to be used with Foam.
But I would not bother with even dolling out the cash for a 30 dollar kit. You WILL need a new filter, and they come pre-oiled....
Yes, get that baby cleaned... but more importantly get those Strut Brace nuts replaced and you may want to start looking at Guide Supports for your Struts if the mounting studs have been damaged.
Be Safe.
Motor On!
Be Safe.
Motor On!
Hey everyone -- 5 years and ~60k miles ago I installed a DDM Works CAI on my 04 R53. Now I finally got around to reading and realizing that you are supposed to actually clean that filter once in a while. Unfortunately, my M7 strut bar has been screwed on so tight by various shops over the years that the bolts are nearly stripped (not totally ruined though) and I can't unscrew them by hand. The bar blocks my ability to access the CAI.
Is it worth taking to a shop and having them take it off and clean the filter for me (maybe during my next oil change)? I don't care if its an easy job to do myself normally... if they charge 50 bucks for it fine. Mostly just wondering how important it is to get that filter cleaned/changed. I don't live in the desert (North NJ) but 5 years is a long time in any climate.
Thanks!
Is it worth taking to a shop and having them take it off and clean the filter for me (maybe during my next oil change)? I don't care if its an easy job to do myself normally... if they charge 50 bucks for it fine. Mostly just wondering how important it is to get that filter cleaned/changed. I don't live in the desert (North NJ) but 5 years is a long time in any climate.
Thanks!
My question would be: Are you saying the cross bar bolts are nearly stripped or the nuts to the strut mounts?
If it's the former, it should simply be an issue of removing the cross member, taking the fasteners to a hardware/ fastener store, and buying replacements. If it's the latter, given that you're saying "over the years" is it maybe time for strut and mount replacement?
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Just the cross bar bolts, and only the center ones at that. I can take the whole bar off by undoing the larger bolts that connect it to the braces themselves. However I'll have to try a ratchet as my crappy screwdriver set was not budging those.
Gotcha. I'd personally just go grab new fasteners after getting it removed. Good luck.
My question would be: Are you saying the cross bar bolts are nearly stripped or the nuts to the strut mounts?
If it's the former, it should simply be an issue of removing the cross member, taking the fasteners to a hardware/ fastener store, and buying replacements. If it's the latter, given that you're saying "over the years" is it maybe time for strut and mount replacement?
If it's the former, it should simply be an issue of removing the cross member, taking the fasteners to a hardware/ fastener store, and buying replacements. If it's the latter, given that you're saying "over the years" is it maybe time for strut and mount replacement?

(internet photo)
Guessing his repair shop used red loc-tite or similar last time it was cinched down.
Figured as much, any preference between the Uni Foam and K&N?
http://www.ddmworks.com/Filters-for-...kes_p_160.html
http://www.ddmworks.com/Filters-for-...kes_p_160.html
Those two threaded holes at each end of the M7 Strut Bar wore out on the GP and I repaired them by obtaining a PERMA-COIL 1221-310 Kit for M10x1.5. It includes a drill, tap and inserts. You'll never have to worry about wearing out the threads again.
The 6 strut mount bolts are separate from the ones needed to be removed so as to service the oil filter and air filter. I have the same unit, and the threads in the top plates eventually become stripped from constant removal, reattachment.

(internet photo)
Guessing his repair shop used red loc-tite or similar last time it was cinched down.

(internet photo)
Guessing his repair shop used red loc-tite or similar last time it was cinched down.
OK, I didn't realize that the outer bars were threaded for the machine screw... Doesn't really change my answer much. I would either A) drill and tap for a larger flared machine screw, or B) drill out the threads on the lower bar and purchase a linger screw, lock washer and nut and then through bolt.
My answer would depend upon space and fastener prices.
It's somewhat of a common issue with these plates. If folks call m7 they indicated to me to just send the top plates to them to either fix/replace and not molest it in any way.
It's a great bar and purchased mine used 9 yrs ago, would definitely purchase again.
It's a great bar and purchased mine used 9 yrs ago, would definitely purchase again.










