I have put about 10k on my R50 since I bought it 3 years ago, at which time I replaced BOTH O2 sensors. The other day, my CEL came on, and I read a P2097 code (post cat too rich). I cleared the code, started the car, light never came on. The next time I started the car, the light was on. Clear the code, light's back on, but only after *2* starts each time. I also noticed a few days later the idle was not terribly steady.

So I ordered a new NTK sensor.

I've tried it in both the pre AND post cat, and still receive a P2097 code after the 2nd start up.

Just for giggles, I also tried "resetting" the ECU via the console, which of course didn't help (or I wouldn't be here!)

What else could be causing this? I'd really like to avoid being raped by the dealership, as I don't usually let anyone else work on my cars.

 

The "resetting the ECU via the console" is FALSE. This is bad internet info been going around for years. That procedure is just an instrument cluster reset and has NOTHING to do with the ECU. So it will never fix any car, or make it faster.

With a 2097 or 2096 fault it is a memory fault and all the adaptations must be cleared from the DME. The ONLY way to do it is to have someone with the MINI factory software or a copy to clear it. It can't be done with just clearing the faults. Then you won't know if it is fixed for about 50 miles as it has to relearn the memory.

 

I figured the dash "reset" was BS, but also figured it couldn't hurt.

So I'm guessing when I call my dealer, they're going to want to do a full diagnosis, and I believe they charge a minimum $125 for a visit. Whenever I *need* the stealership to do something, I like to tell them EXACTLY what I want done, and nothing else so I don't run into "unforseen" expenses.

What exactly should I tell them to do so they don't try to screw me out of even more money?

Thanks for the help.

 

Don't feel too bad. I'm in the same situation. I just replaced my O2 sensor with an NTK model and can't clear the code.

 

You need to have a scanner that also resets most codes. You can buy them for around $50. There is a recent thread on the issue. See the first thread below, there are at least two mentioned (I have one of them). Also check out the second thread about a spark plug non fouler and P2096 which is another CAT code.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-the-bank.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...n-headers.html

 

That thread about the scanner is mine!!

When I run the scanner to actively monitor the O2 sensor it keeps flashing that the one ahead of the cat is active, then non active. Can't figure out why. The one after the cat is active all the time. I've used the scanner to clear the code and all the adaptive measures, is there something else I have to do? Even with the light off (will work until I start the car again) when I have it read codes the same code is still there.

May have to try that spark plug spacer trick though.

 

I'm playing with P2096. now. I replaced my O2. But I got this code after swapping in a JCW resonator. I took it out 6 months ago and I'm to old. I need quiet exhaust. so I probably introduced an air leak or the gaskets didn't seat right.


well back to the code. in my old mini I got this code and just swapped in used but new to me o2 sensors and complete header. The code will go away by itself. But here is the big but. it takes 40 drive cycles of no problem detected. For me that is a month. That is exactly what my old car did. after one month of swapping parts the code went away and the light went off. I'm getting antsy now. what if I didn't fix the problem. then I look for it in 2 weeks and start all over.

 

FWIW, if you don't have access to a computer to clear the adaptations, then the drive cycles seem to be the longer path to clearing the codes.

We went through this last year on his car with a P2096 code. We replaced the rear 02 sensor with a new NTK. Within 3 days, the CEL went away, but it took about 2 weeks until the pending 2096 code disappeared.

I'm guessing the 2097 code will also take a similar cycle to clear. If you're having idling issues or other symptoms of running rich, it may be the upstream 02 sensor that is at fault.

 

So after my debacle, I figured I needed to call the stealership to get them to clear my code. I put it off for a few days, and the light turned off by itself. I must have had enough drive cycles for it to clear. What's bugging me is that since I tried my new sensor in both the upstream and downstream and neither worked, I took it out and sent it back. Then the code cleared with both "old" (again, only 10-12k on them) sensors. Hopefully this isn't a sign my cat is going, although I suppose with 165k on the ol' girl, it's entirely possible.

 

So with this being the case how am I supposed to get this thing through emissions?