Which new fitting? I have a thicker exhaust side gasket that sneed supplied. I'm using the OEM one right now. I'll put the car up on the lift tomorrow and check for leaks.

 

Update on the exhaust: The header is fine and so is the coating. Which is doing it's job just fine. I removed the heat sheilds above the header and I don't see any evidence of heat damage or feel anything in the cabin whatsoever in terms of heat increase. I'll be getting an invidia Exhaust soon because they're the only ones who make a 2.36 inch exhaust for this car to match up with my header.

So I better buy a vape pen and join the Subie gang.

 

Bump: So I took my car to it's first set of autocross events back to back. I had a blast and won a trophy..........for being the only one in my run group lol. I sucked but had a blast. That's all that mattered. The second day it rained and got to test out that LSD. My driving skills, tires and suspension were the limiting factors. All will be replaced in due time.

However there was a couple of casualties. My WMW (Not a Vibratechnics which I mentioned earlier) Motor mount sheared off causing the flex pipe to rip. My new OEM intercooler boot on the left side also tore open. And my radiator was leaking.....again.


Here are some pics.








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So a new Double wall'd flex pipe was welded in. (This fixed the hissing noise)

A new CSF Radiator was sent under warranty. But if this one leaks again then i'll be getting a Mishimoto.

But I'm really happy about the motor mount. Since WMW never saw one of their motor mounts fail, they sent me another one 6 months out of the warranty period if I sent the old one back. They didn't have to do that but I'm shocked that they did. WMW is awesome for doing that.

I also got some DDM Works silicone Intercooler boots since the price was MUCH better than the OEM boots.

I had some idling issues and lack of mid throttle power so I took out both of the MAP sensors and sprayed them with MAF cleaner. MUCH better. The car feels more noticeably alive after doing so.

 

In your other post about the failed WMW motor mount, we didn't get to see that there is a sheared stud in the construction of the mount. Now we know it is not just a rubber to aluminum bond which would be a no no in design.

It takes a lot of stress for this stud to fail, so I wonder if you are running a "high performance" lower engine mount. I have seen mounts that eliminated the flexible bushing on the big end. Which lower engine mount do you have?

 

So you have BSH lower motor restraint BSH lower motor restraint .

Looks like a solid arm, with the most flexible part being what looks like Delrin on the big end.

 

I do have the BSH lower mount. It's holding up well. I also have the Powerflex black series transmission inserts and they are great.

 

I don't know how to put it more gently. I suspect it is the rigid lower mount that contributing the WMW upper mount to fail catastrophically. But then I am no ME, nor do I try to play one.

The failure is very expensive as your photos can attest.

 

Let's see what happens. WMW would contact me with an update on what they would find.

 

Way is in a difficult spot to render a impartial failure analysis, since he sells the BSH too. If I have not mistaken, he owns the TSW designs.

 

I think it was just a defective stud in the mount. It's rare for a product to be sold without at least ONE defective unit sold.

I won't worry too much about this.

 

I think it was just a defective stud in the mount. It's rare for a product to be sold without at least ONE defective unit sold.

I won't worry too much about this. I'm looking at their X-Brace soon.

 

Update time:

I went to another AutoX at the BB&T Center in Sunrise. I won first in my class (DSP). I was up against a 2013 FRS. I also went faster than a 2jz Swapped E46 M3. But his rear tires were shot and mine were new.

I had installed Continental ExtremeContact sport tires. They performed great, made all the difference.










I also had purchased an Ultra Racing Front lower bar that attaches under the front crash bar just below the oil pan. So far no issues with pan clearance or ground clearance. I'm not complaining for the price and the good build quality. Some say it might not be worth it to reinforce that area. Oh well. I'll be the guinea pig.






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Last but not least.......







Since my old exhaust was falling off I got a new one to replace it. I chose Invidia because it was more affordable than an equivalent Milltek (I found a good deal on one) and because it was the only R53 exhaust to be a 2.36 inch diameter to match my header.

It sounds fine. Quiet when at low rpm but is LOUD when you floor it. Especially since I'm decatted. As I said....it sounds fine. Not really my style but I can't complain for the price. I do love the Pops and Bangs though. :p




Next project is do replace the timing chain, guides, tensioner, and sprockets. My timing chain cover is leaking so I might as well do everything while I'm in there. I'll be installing the Detroit Tuned Cryo treated Chain kit in.

 

Welp. Cryo Treated Timing chain, cam sproket, BSH Catch can, tensioner, updated timing chain guides and timing chain cover seals replaced. The engine no longer leaks ANY oil. Only the power steering hoses. :p

I also replaced the belt tensioner. Take a look at the pics to see how close I was to ruining my Harmonic balancer.





















*Shudders*

 

Did you replace the crank sprocket too?

 

Nope. I bought one but then I fouund out I needed a special tool to pull it off. The old one looked okay.

 

This is an excellent thread. Good to see the progression through the car and the pictures to go along with the explanation. Thank you for your diligent work!

 

No problem. More pics incoming later after the breakdown. Shifter cable broke and stuck in 4th gear. Already ordered new cables and the helix short shifter kit.

 

Great build bro, Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks. I'll try. I installed the New Cables and Helix Short shifter. It fit even with the large invidia resonator, just had to make the heatsheild fit. Great shifter kit for the price.

 

Update...Coilovers ordered and on back order until the middle of may...yay.

In the meantime I gots me some Straight from Japan, actually get two, JDM Hella swag shizzle dingdong....or whatever the kids say these days...in the form of Cusco power braces. The rears are installed, the fronts are in the mail.
















Also I had installed the Brake ducts I had laying around forever. They look Hobo-Joe-ish but the damper or Axles don't touch and I haven't had any issues with clearance in other areas. So I call it a victory.

I also purchased a new helmet for the next Auto-x Events.

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Nice metal segment of the brake duct on passenger side. I've seen, without one, the horror photos of the stainless steel wire of the hose wrap around the pulley and destroyed the belt. I know it is inevitable that sooner or later my Mini will have to go thru this surgery. I prefer not to think about it right now.

 

I had to Cut A LOT out of the plastic bumper frame in order for the hose to be tucked away inside the wheel well. The frame is still structural but I've gone past the point of ever wanting to install the fog lights again without replacing that piece. Oh well. No holes in my bumper skin and looks stock even with the hood up. You have to really find the hoses to see if they were fit. I tested the airflow by blowing a small amount of compressed air through the fog light holes and I didn't feel any sign of restrictions.

Is this the best set up? Probably not... Is it better than before? I would certainly like to think so.

 

That is exactly what I mean by not looking forward to the eventuality. I know Mini will grow wings, and wants to leave the nest and became a track animal someday. I am still clinging to my cute little car that is so polite in town.

 

Few more bits here and there. Hotchkis 25.5mm RSB and four Trailing arm camber links. WMW Xbrace, Whiteline Sway bar stoppers, Alta endlinks front and back. Prepped the R56 Trailing arms with new Timken bearings and Bosch speed sensors. Still waiting on my OTHER Cusco brace and coilovers.

I did an Autox in January Won my class (DSP) although there was only one other person in said class lol.

http://autox.carlc.com/results/2018/...-21/final.html

 

I am curious. Do the Whiteline stops for the front sway bar do anything, unless yours don't have them already?

I cannot tell from the blurry photo


my OE sway bar already has welded on end stops