What is the cost of the aluminum slave cylinder and why? I know plastic products always get a bad rap deserving or not. I am unaware of the one on Mini being unreliable and an OE replacement can be have for under $30.

When I embarked on the performance project of my R53, I was delighted that a car designed in circa 2000 have so many advanced material parts and many are intelligent design and use of plastic making them possible and yet incredibly economical.

 

I've read of many failures of new plastic fantastic slave cylinders failing after install and proper bleeding. So much that some people are retrofitting S10 slave cylinders to cure this issue.

No thanks.

Besides I wish they used that "Intelligent design" on a better expansion tank.

I don't want a part that was designed to be "economical" I wand something to last. I ain't leasing this car. I'm keeping it.

 

Don't be so sensitive. I am just asking why and what the aluminum one costs. I had ole school aluminium cylinders failed in other cars around 35k and so far the plastic one on Mini has 42k. I did a forum search on the failure of the plastic clutch cylinder before I asked. There are now a lot of not so reputable suppliers also making similar part for the Mini, so may be some of these are not really OEM.

The intelligently designed parts that plastic made possible and economical on the Mini are numerous. Just look at all the excellent plastic connectors, the quick disconnect John-Guest-like fuel supply coupler to the fuel rail; e.g. the mil-spec like circular connector for the entire drivetrain electrical harness that is made of plastic instead "aviation grade" unobtainium. This is what modern material science is all about - low cost, well designed affordable parts for the masses.

 

Post #31 is a link to the slave cylinder.

No worries. It's just when the thermostat on an R56 is a mess of plastic that constantly fails, or the Expansion tank on an E46 that splits open or the waterpump impeller on the same car coming apart. I get tired of it.
Plastic is good IN THE RIGHT PLACES. But I'll replace other things with metal. IMHO.

That metal one isn't badly priced. Let's see how long it will last.

Thanks for your comment.

 

First impressions: Err meh guurd

Traction is the key word today.

Yes, I'll be like everyone else who reviews an LSD after having an open diff. Gushing.

Now keep in mind that I replaced a lot of other stuff to go along with this, including the clutch, rebuild subframe, ect.

The diff: In the wet I have about as much traction with the LSD as I did in the dry with the open diff, keep in mind it's easy to break traction even with the LSD, but now I have to actually "make" it break traction, as with before it would just loose traction on it's own with little effort.

In the dry it's scary how much more traction I have. I have never driven a FWD car with an LSD. Never. So at first it was weird (and a Bit scary :p) because I used the throttle to steer the car under heavy acceleration and through understeer. Now the car rotates fiercely through the corner if you floor it. So now I have to ease up on the throttle and relearn how to drive this car again to get used to the new driving dynamics.

Overall I can clearly say that this Diff was 100% worth it and would recommend it. (What a surprise)

The ACT clutch is still breaking in. Overall I really like it. Direct response, High grab point on the pedal, more direct grab point...ect

The flywheel is noisy but whatever. It's MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH better than the Dual-mass POS with an inch of play in it. Quick shifts, very quick downshifts, easier to downshift to second gear now.

Can't wait to continue with the R56 Rear aluminum arms and some coilovers. I know about the heavy wheels but I want to finish my suspension first. I don't like putting aftermarket wheels on a stock suspension.

 

Was it necessary to take out the airbox to remove the transmission? I'm tackling that project this weekend, and so far have the whole front end removed.

 

Yes. You have to take the throttlebody and plastic intake tube off to gain access to a bellhousing bolt, and to not crack the plastic charge tube when you remove the gealbox. So net a new throttlebody gasket and green charge tube gasket. Plus you need the airbox out to get access to the top bellhousing bolts.

 

Thanks! You don't happen to have the part numbers for those gaskets do you?

 

I just went on ECS Tuning to get them.

 

Is it necessary to change them out? I'm tackling this job this weekend, and I don't know if the dealerships them in stock.

 

The gaskets? Well I didn't change them out and now I have a boost leak and the car stalls sometimes when I press the clutch while slowing down. I STRONGLY recommend replacing them. Especially if they are original. I have to do it again.

 

Order the parts. Get the rest of the project completed so by then you can have the new parts ready to go in.

 

 

Thanks I'll call my dealerships to check.

 

Those part numbers are for Victor Reinz Gaskets. Not OEM Mini. But I think they will be the same number regardless.

 

So my manifold blew wide open just past the precat. So when I floor it it becomes an open header. But it seals back up when driving calmly. Redneck exhaust valve lol.

I bought Sneed Speed's very last catless manifold.

I'm going to get it Ceramic coated and get an M7 Header blanket to go with it. Plus some stainless ARP Hardware for the manifold to head.

I might just get a new JCW Backbox and leave the rest of the system unresonated.

This car with an open header is suprisingly quieter than I expected it to be lol.

I'll post pics after work.

 

Pic of the new Manifold. It looks fine. And the price was fair. Plus Sneed for speed ported the header to match the Gasket. Neat.


gif upload site

 

upload photos to internet

Small Bump. The Header has been ceramic coated and bead blasted and is awaiting installation. Also found out the strap holding the left back box just detached. No rust or damage. Just let go. So now I may have to replace the whole exhaust which I didn't want to do so soon.

 

I Installed the Header with all new OEM gaskets and ARP Stainless Hardware on the manifold side and two new OEM Nuts on the Exhaust side. Fit seems to be just fine. No notable exhaust leaks noises. BUT I am noticing a loud hissing under acceleration. Keep in mind I'm still running the crappy stock exhaust system from the cat back which I will replace when funds allow. Also notice the stock exhaust strap that just let go in the last pic.

 

Is that the Stock S or non S muffler?

The S muffler isn't the best ,BUT far from horrible. I would, however replace the narrow piping.

What's the OD on the Muffler inlet?

 

I have no Idea. This is the stock S NON JCW exhaust. I've heard that a restrictive can cause that hissing sound because I don't hear any loud banging or soft tapping. Which are a usual indication of exhaust leaks. It sounds like a scuba diver breathing.

 

If it's high pitch there's a tiny crack somewhere. If it's only on acceleration there's a gap. If it's low pitch check the welded points

 

I chased 2 down 1st was a poorly seated gasket post flex (which only popped up on acceleration) and the other was a bad weld (low pitch) when I removed my 2nd cat and resonator

 

I don't hear anything at idle or on decel. Only when applying gas in neutral or in gear.

 

My best guess is that it is the new fitting. Upon acceleration, the pressure pushes through