Hello everyone I just joined this forum in the hopes that I can get some help and a direction where I need to go next with my Mini. I bought a 2006 Mini Cooper S r53 about three months back and when I bought it. It ran great for about 3 weeks then all kinds of gremlins started but its always been the same issue. Car runs fine come to a stop car dies code p1125 pops up and sometimes the car goes into limp mode. Turn the car back on check engine light stays for a bit then goes off. My brother owns a BMW shop we looked on Mitchell and it referred to the throttle body replaced it. Still doing same thing, so the next thing it said was fuel pump but we checked the pump and its working fine. So we decided to put new plugs in it. It ran fine until today when it cut off on me twice. Pulled over read code p1125 turned the car on and off wiggle the connection on the throttle body and it ran fine again. We have also checked all the wires and they are fine. I don't know if it matters but it seems to be happening the following day after I fill up with gas. And yes I fill up with 93 octane. I also replaced the gas cap. I don't know what else to replace and I am getting a bit tired of just throwing expensive parts at it. I was wondering if anyone had the same issue and what was replaced to make it run right. Since the code p1125 doesn't really explain anything. I am sure someone here has had this issue before..
Any help is welcomed and thank you

 

I ran a quick search here on "code p1125"

http://goo.gl/wlJ94m

I haven't had the time to read through each and every post, but a bunch of them point to bad connections to the throttle body, some of them wiring harness related, and more than a few point to the possibility of a bad accelerator pedal, which could also make sense, since it interfaces electronically with the throttle body.

Good luck and please post your findings.

 

thanks for your help I will look through it... and let post any fixes

 

that code is throttle position sensor, so throtttle body is what I would replace but you did that. I would clean up that connector with electrical cleaner, or firm up the female side of the connector (carefully bend the prongs)

 

Either the connection at the throttle body or the pins in the harness.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...475-p1125.html

 

Thanks for your recommendation i will clean it out and see what happens I will post if it fixed it

 

Well went and bought electrical connector cleaner and pulled the air filter box and the ecu out cleaned all connections and unplugged throttle body connector and did the same. Put it all back together and car started fine, but it was running fine before since I cleared the code and unplugged throttle body connector after it went to limp mode. Tomorrow I will drive it and see if it the issue comes back. Any other suggestions in case it comes back are appreciated

 

I've seen a couple cars that it just takes 2 or 3 times of trying to connect the throttle body electrical connector. Did you apply a small amount of dielectric to the weather packing around the connector? I've also had connectors that "bottomed out" on the weather pack before they made a good connection between the contacts.

 

I cleaned the connections and so far so good. I did not add the packing grease but I will do that. That seems like a great idea to keep the connections sealed and clean

 

Have had an almost identical problem. I've replaced the engine wiring harness, didn't help at all. I"m tried another throttle body and again didn't fix it. I saw a pedal calibration procedure somewhere, that I was going to try if I can find it again.

 

Also found this at:
http://workshop-manuals.com/mini/coo...ams/page_5608/

"The Hall sensors are non-adjustable because the EMS2000 "learns" the throttle angle voltage at idle speed. If the throttle housing/accelerator pedal
module is replaced, the ADAPTATIONS MUST BE CLEARED and ADAPTATION PROCEDURE MUST BE PERFORMED using the DISplus. If
this is not performed, the vehicle will not start, or will run in "fail-safe" mode."

 

I had the same problem.Replaced the battery and problem went away.

 

Unfortunately, I have already replaced the batt.

 

Did you unplug and wiggle the throttle body plug?

 

Yes, I've actually replaced the engine harness (thanks for carrying it btw) and have tried a spare TB.

Just to update the Schwaben tool does not do the motor electronics on the 1st gen minis.

Currently, I'm looking at getting Auto Enginunity, as I contacted them and they list that AE can reset adaptations for Intake Air Temp, Misfiring, Electronic throttle, Mixture, Knock, O2, Timing, Idle speed, and CVT.

 

OK , I've finally solve the problem on my R53. Anyway it turns out that if you replace the tb or pedal, the potentiometers need to be re-calibrated. Most cars, the owner can do this with a simple process that involves the key and pedal. However..... 1st gen mini do not have this protocol. It has to be done by DIS or better BMW software. If you replace the parts, and don't reprogram it will just throw the code again. The good news is that the reprogramming can be done by 3rd party independent shops, so no need to go to BMW dealership and pay high $$.

Anyway hope that help, good luck.

 

I have a 2002 mini Cooper. How do I know if it's a 1st generation mini or not? Also, what does the shop need to do to perform the reprogramming? I replaced the pedal accelerator sensor (the while pedal with the sensor). I can only get 2000rpm, 10mph.

 

All R50, R53 and R52 are 1st Generation cars. 50/53 02-06 and the 52 04-08.

It sounds as if you are in limp mode is the EML light on?

 

Basically the pedal and throttle body will be out of sync. I believe it's the throttle body adaptation that needs to be reset. The shop should have the software, and procedure for doing this. Definitely needed if you are throwing an EML and getting the p1125 potentiometer code.

 

I replaced my throttle body 2 months ago and everything has been great until this week. Now I'm getting a P2123 code. I'm going to replace the throttle pedal this time.

 

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