Hey guys, recently finished a "return-to-driveable" project on my R53.

In the process, I noticed that my crank pulley is cracking (just some hairline stuff, nothing crazy). I can take pics this weekend when I go home to work on it.

I need to make a trip to Portland from Phoenix, and I was going to take the PCH for kicks. I can't afford to replace the pulley until the first of September (I only get paid once a month).

Has anyone noticed cracking on their crank pulleys, and driven on them for considerable mileage?

Just looking for some hypotheses regarding how many miles a cracking pulley can have on it. Opinions?

 

This is asking for a problem. If you notice cracks. It can go at any time. there is no way I would drive further than 100 miles from my house with a condition like that. I would replace ASAP before your trip. Just a few hours and a couple hundred for the part.

 

Yep, I wouldn't want to take a chance like that on such a long trip. Towing can get real expensive, really quick, and also having to find a reputable MINI shop close to a random break down spot... no thanks!

The two most recommended crank pullies are the ATI and SFI fluid gel pulley. The SFI is about $250 and the ATI, $350.

Sometimes you can find a used pulley that's still good on the forums. Might be OK for a temp until you can install a new one. How soon is your trip?

 

Yea it's hard to say, if you see damage it will more likely sooner than later.

 

I leave August 6th, but the only reason I could afford going in any manner is that gas costs will be offset by my mother in Portland and my trusty passenger/girlfriend!

I sort of spent my entire July paycheck on parts for my MINI already haha.

 

How long have you had your IE pulley? Do you buy into the "damage to internals" philosophy?

 

OK, too soon... was wondering because my stock pulley might be for sale, but probably not until late August. It has 45K on it, but I won't know the condition it's in until I remove it. I've had my ATI waiting to be installed for about 5 months and just got the new crank bolt and seal last week.

Can you borrow money for the pulley from your Mom, or girlfriend? Breaking down on the trip with them in the car could bring the trouble to a whole nother level.

 

Definitely agree with others, I would be concerned driving it. Here is an article on crank pulleys. They are a vital component.

http://new.minimania.com/MINI_Cooper_Crank_Pulley

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

Okay then, I have another question:

If you guys were in my position, would you get a lightened aluminum crank pulley, since they're so cheap? I can swing one of those, but I can't afford the ATI or the other fluid one. I see some of you guys running solid pulleys, how worried should I be about the whole "destructive vibration" thing?

Could I just run that for a few months? Would it quickly deteriorate my motor?

 

I've had mine for a while now, maybe two years. I would have to check my build thread to know for sure. Engine is smooth as silk, no vibration, and revs wonderfully. If I had infinite funds and was to do it all over I'd still have the ie pulley. Find me a story of someone's r53 crapping out from a lightweight pulley and you can have mine.

 

the r50 crank pulley is also a lighter weight than r53..... so is it really needed?

 

Would a 2% OD solid crank pulley introduce any more destructive vibrations?

I have a 15% reduction S/C pulley I'm waiting to install until I can afford the time to service the supercharger, replace the water pump, gaskets, and throw in new tensioner bushings and the WMW ignition package.

Could I run a 2% OD solid crank pulley for a few months before I get those all taken care of in the beginning of September? Should I stick with a lighter, but stock size? Trying to keep this repair under $150.

 

How many miles, do you think? Do you drive it hard? Did you do any supporting mods to help offset the lack of dampening?

If my tensioner bushings are shot already, could this accentuate the "vibrations," or are the vibrations they refer to internal? My tensioner strut is in great condition (no yo-yo), the bushings are just torn to crap (previous owner abused it in terms of maintenance, but never used more than 4k rpm). Do I need to replace those immediately too, or can they wait until September with the rest of the supercharger overhaul?

 

technically the only dampening would be rotational. the r50 uses more of a solid type crank pulley. but the r53 uses the full rubber dampening. while I cannot say what would happen to the car. an inline 4 is really balanced in firing order. and the faster you would spin the engine the less need of a damping pulley would be needed.


I believe most of the fear associated with the crank pulley is bearing wear on the crank


the only issue with getting a 2% overdrive would be if you already had a 17% S/C pulley. then this would push the s/c over efficiency. only a problem if you spend a lot of time at the upper RPM's, the blower would just be pushing heat

 

Okay, decided against 2% OD because I'm in AZ and didn't want a 17% pulley for the same fear-of-heat-soak reason. For some reason, I didn't connect that increasing the size of the crank pulley would spin the supercharger faster until just now.

I'll just go with that IE pulley for $90, I think. That sounds like a delicious deal. Unless, would I get "MINI cred" if I had the 0% Alta with the 15% Alta V2 S/C pulley?

Any differences between the undampened pulleys?

 

you wont prevent heat soak, itll happen no matter what =)


I would choose any other company over alta, im not super impressed with their quality systems.... and while I can live with the air box and the diverter. I don't need poor quality on a pulley. but that's just me


they should all be roughly the same, just the way they look and how light they are

 

So anyone have any comments on using a 2% overdrive crank pulley with a 16% reduction pulley? It's my daily driver.

 

The ie is exactly the same as the cravenspeed just a bit cheaper. I'd stick with a solid design, spokes are too light and don't have enough structure. Just my opinion of course. And to answer the above questions, I have about 30k miles on my lightweight pulley and drive it "hard" when ever I drive. I used a brand new tensioner however.if your worried about damage to your main bearings, what do you think happens while that pulley flops around until it falls apart?

 

I did the ATI when my pulley slipped and when into a limp mode.
The Bentley Manual said, check the crank pulley, and sure enough, that's what it was.
I have a 15% SC pulley and the ATI (0%). I didn't drive my MINI until I had this issue fixed, and in hindsight, fairly easy job. Needed to get a few metric bolts to assist in pulley with a kit borrow from Auto Zone.

 

Gonna go against the grain here. You'll be fine, its only a thousand miles (week of driving) or so. I kept a close eye on mine and noticed "hairline cracks" in it for a long time. Replaced it at about 200,000 miles when I went in to replace the leaky oil seal.

When you do replace I would go with an ATI, or something dampened. When I rebuilt my engine earlier this year the machine shop could not find any wear on a 365,000 mile crank.

Nik

 

Just drove the PCH. There is a 70 mile stretch north of the Hearst Castle with no cell coverage and one gas station selling gas at $6.80 a gallon. Enjoy!

 

Oh no that's not the worry, my worry was overworking the supercharger.

 

It depends on what kind of gas is available in your area. I probably wouldn't do it unless you can get 93 easily.

If going with an ATI pulley, the "stock" size is actually almost a 1% pulley, something like .8%, because of the physical limitation of their system/components. It's probably because of the design and manufacturing costs for a smaller dampener core just for one car.

edit: 2% ATI is 2%, the "stock" ATI is not actually the stock OEM size.

 

Was looking at the IE pulley. And I have a station that sells ethanol free 93 octane. That's all it ever gets.

 

I have two options in front of me, it seems:

• R&R current cracking crank pulley with a used OEM unit until I can afford the ATI one
  OR
  
• Replace failing OEM crank pulley with Ireland Engineering 0% undampened unit

Would you guys save to spring for the ATI pulley two months from now if you made ~$900/mo while going to school? Or should I just kill two birds with one stone and get that nice $90 IE one?

I'm trying to make this MINI last me for many years to come, but I've only heard good things from solid crank pulley owners, so I'm not sure $400+shipping ($50 used OEM now, $350+shipping in September for ATI) is worth it.