names are different, mouse over the modules it'll say what they are I think

 

Ok, assuming I do find the module, how would I update it? Would it just give me an option or is there anything else I need to download?

 

right click, program it'll auto code in final step you will have to redo ncsexpert edits

 

OK, I found a module called "GM" that has "BC1" listed as a VARIANT. I'm assuming that's it. The only things that come up when I click it under "Edit plan" are "Code C" and "Replace R". They don't tell you what either of them do. The only useful info it gives me on the module is that it is hardware number 7. That's it.

Should I do Code C?

 

what version of ista? I'll check what mine says, I thought I had a program option instead of having to go into the replace menu

code will load the default settings onto the module

 

3.55.0.300. I'm in the Programming tab under "Control module tree" where I've selected the "GM" module.

 

Haven't figured the BC1 update out yet, but in the meantime I've played around with some other features in the KMB module.

I enabled the digital speed display in the OBC which is actually better than I thought it would be. It updates instantly and it's more convenient to glance at than an analog meter in the center of the dash. I'll be using that instead of outside temperature for my default OBC readout from now on. A curious thing to note is that if you use the speed display with the "wie_tacho" (with speedometer) option checked, it reads about 3MPH lower than the speedo. I tested it with the other option, "ohne_vorlauf" (without advance), and it reads about the same so I don't know if the speedo is accurate or the OBC is accurate. Stuck with the "wie_tacho" option for now.

Also disabled the DSC light and enabled the DSC defeat in my Ian Cull module, so now the DSC is turned off when I start the car and the light never comes on. Will be much nicer this way when I get the LSD in.

I tried to enable 0-60 and 1/4 mile timers, but they just show up blank when I scroll through them in the OBC, so I guess I can't actually use them with this KMB.

Also found a "fuel consumption 2" option that I tried enabling, but I didn't see a difference in the fuel consumption readout in the OBC, so I disabled it again.

 

Came home this weekend and brought my computer with me to code some things into my dad's car. We enabled auto-up for both windows, the digital speedo on the OBC, automatic locking after 10-15MPH, and automatic unlocking on key off.

After seeing how the factory auto-up operates, I'm going to disable the auto-up I'm using through Ian Cull's module and enable the factory option. When you tap the window switch up with the Ian Cull module, it begins going up with the initial click, but stops when you let off. After about a half second, it begins moving again. Just a little annoying. The factory auto-up moves continuously.

 

Does the factory auto up work on both windows? I've read it only works on the drivers side.

 

Both windows worked fine on my dad's '02 R50 and my '03 R53. We both have the same revision of the BC1, however; C03. I think newer revisions of the BC1 had problems, I don't know for sure. I also enabled both "pinch" window functions in the BC1. Don't really know what that does, but I think I read in some other thread it was required for auto-up.

 

Ordered Helix aspherical, blue-tinted and heated side mirrors from ECS. My passenger side mirror has been hairline cracked since I bought it, but an OEM heated replacement for just that side is $90. OEM European heated aspherical (blind spot curve) mirrors are $120 for a set. Then I found these Helix units - which are the same as the OEM European except they have a blue tint for glare reduction - for $70 a set. They won't ship until next week, I'll update when I install them.

 

The Helix mirrors look like a great option. The heating elements in my kid's R53 don't work any more so this looks like an upgrade.

Let us know how they fit and work!

 

I certainly will! Need to dig up a replacement procedure first...

 

Did the mirrors today. Were much more of a chore than I was anticipating (as usual). I keep forgetting I have a Bentley manual, found the replacement procedure in there after a while of fruitless searching on Google. The procedure is kind of unfortunate because it's almost impossible not to break the old glass when you take it out. The clips that hold the glass to the power mirror actuator are in a ring around the middle of the glass, so you have to turn the mirror as far inward as it will go and then use your fingers to pry the outside up even more until you can get a screwdriver in between the clips and the actuator. There's also a couple metal connectors for power/ground for the heating elements on the outside side of the mirrors that need to be unclipped, but there's enough slack to not worry about it until you can get the mirror unclipped.

I broke both of my old mirrors prying them up with my fingers. Almost split the drivers side in half. Oh well. I don't there's much you can do about it since the clips are so far inward of where you have to begin prying.

The new mirrors look good side by side to the old. The convex shape allows you to see more of everything and the blue tint is a nice, subtle-ish effect. Putting them on took me awhile because at first I couldn't figure out where the clips needed to go and then I couldn't get them to clip all the way. The drivers side was especially difficult. I felt like I was clipping it in pretty well, but when I slammed the door a few times to test, it would pop out. Compared the new mirror to the old and realized one of the clips one the new one was broken, but in a way that was far too large to go over the area it needed to. I guess it wasn't properly made? Took a dremel to that one and eventually got both sides clipped in (I think). They survived 20 or so of the door slam tests, so I think they're probably good.

When I first put them on the car, I was actually kind of disappointed. The convex shape is disorienting when you first glance at them; it takes your eyes half a second to adjust to the distortion before you can really focus on what you're seeing. The blind-spot section at the end of the mirror doesn't look like a very big curvature either. Didn't see how it could be very useful. But in practice, the mirrors work very well. In my opinion, the ability to see more of the roadway in general due to the convex shape outweighs the initial adjustments your eyes have to make to the distortion. The blue tint looks cool and I'm sure it would help with glare reduction, though I haven't driven with them at night yet. And most importantly, the blind-spot section actually does do its job. You don't have to crane your neck to see back into the blind-spot; even before a car leaves your periphery, it does show up in the blind-spot. It's more seamless than using an accessory blind-spot button as well, since the blind-spot is just an additional curvature of the same pane of glass. Easier to transition your eyes from the blind-spot section on this mirror than if you had a dedicated blind-spot button on a normal mirror.

So all in all, a good buy. For $70 (~$185 for a set of heated OEM), fixed my cracked passenger mirror and upgraded to glare-reduction, convex vision, and good blind-spot functionality. I'd recommend 'em.

 

Looks good Seth.

The tint looks the same as the BMW mirrors. I'll plan to pick these up closer to fall when the heating elements will be needed.

 

Glad to help. After driving with them a bit more, and at night, I can say I still really like them. The tint does help with glare, hopefully I won't be blinded by headlights behind me anymore. I think it adds kind of a cool filter effect as well. Almost like a blue photo filter. Just makes stuff look neat. The convex shape takes some getting used to, but I like the wider field of view. Like I said before, the blind-spot section does do its job. So overall, definitely a good buy.

 

Did you ever get around to installing the clutch? I'm about to tackle this job this weekend. I started taking out the subframe last weekend, and just took out the whole front end including the radiator support. Hopefully it will make the job easier.

 

I have not. It's not slipping much anymore for whatever reason. It slipped pretty badly for the first week or so after I noticed it, but it doesn't slip at all through normal driving anymore. It has to get quite hot before it begins to slip in 3rd or 4th. I still plan on doing it (I already have all the parts plus a nice Quaife diff), but I'm also still dreading it.

 

I'm planning my brake upgrade and want to write down my thoughts so I can keep track of how it needs to be done. My front brakes have plenty of life left on them, but I want to have an upgrade plan when it comes time to service them. Would also love to hear your thoughts on what works best.

First, some description of Mini brakes I've picked up from forums. I know that both the R50 and R53 used 48mm single floating pistons and 276mm rotors. The JCW increased the caliper piston size to 54mm and used 294mm rotors. I know the most popular brake upgrade is to go with the R56 brakes, which use the R53 JCW caliper size and 280mm rotors. The R56S uses the R53 JCW brake kit and a plus sized caliper carrier for the bigger rotors.

Since I'm not tracking the car, I think I will just go the R56 route as well. BBK's are tempting, however. I may just be assembling a Frankenstein of brake parts for the front in the coming months.

Here's what I think I'll be ordering:

- R56 TRW calipers (bigger piston)
- R56S caliper carriers (for the larger rotors)
- R53 JCW rotors (already ordered ECS GEOMET slotted since they were only $80 for both and shipping was free, also looks like I got the last set at the discount )
- R56S EBC Redstuff pads (for the low dust mainly, front and rear)
- WMW stainless steel lines (R56 front, R53 rear)
- ATE TYP 200 fluid
- Pair of rotor set screws

Now I'm curious if the single piston design is still a viable upgrade even with the increased size. Would it be better to use some 4/6-piston fixed calipers? Has anyone done this? I know you can get the Wilwood 6-piston calipers separate from the BBK; would I need a special carrier for those?

And I haven't really researched the rear yet. I have the ECS GEOMET slotted back there at the moment, but everything else is stock. Do most people leave it like that? I'll pick up SS lines when I do the front.

 

Unless you can get the carriers cheap it's not worth trying to make regular R56 calipers into S brakes. I'm not sure about the Coupe and Roadster, but hatch, Cabrio, and Clubman brakes should all be the same. Look for low mileage used 2nd gen S calipers on eBay, Craigslist, and on the forums. I used 2013 Clubman S calipers with about 11,000 miles for my conversion.

For the rest I went with StopTech stainless lines, Akebono ceramic pads, StopTech/Centric slotted rotors, and ATE200 fluid.

 

I'll definitely check around. But I'm now considering doing a Wilwood DP6A caliper since they're only $300. Just trying to figure out what mountings bracket I'd need for it.

 

you can buy the r56 S calipers with brackets from autozone very very cheap, it's like 35 $ each after you return your cores, they took my r53 cores with brackets.

 

Wow that sounds like a really good deal. Then I would just need SS lines and pads. Do they make brass guide bushing kits for the R56? I've found them for the R53.

 

Not sure my pads do not taper wear until they are almost wore out, I flip them to the other side of the car If they look uneven

 

Well I guess that's what I'll go with for now then. R56S calipers and carriers from Autozone (looks like they're Duralast), JCW rotors, EBC Redstuff pads, and WMW SS lines.