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It is good, I'm just happy it's fixed. The other two hubs I installed weren't OEM, but they weren't cheapos either. The one he put in was an OEM R53 hub.
Yes, I was hoping to avoid doing another clutch kit. The Valeo is probably the most common single-mass kit out there, haven't heard of anyone having an issue like this. But again, I just want it to be fixed so I'll do what the tech tells me. The original price he quoted me was just for a clutch kit without the flywheel and I was kind of thinking of going back to the stock Luk dual-mass setup. According to them, it will be much more expensive. RockAuto tells me otherwise. Valeo kits with the flywheel are ~$300 now, and Luk kits are $77 + ~$230 for the flywheel, so they're almost equal. We shall see.
Always like to have at least one upgrade come out of something, hopefully the LCA bushings will be noticeable.
I hear that on the clutch. Odd about the hub though... At least it has been figured out.
LCAs are nice. I equate them to a spark plug! lol They are firmer for the front end, but I noticed them when everything was returned to the way it should be, maybe not necessarily an enhancement. So you start to think... how long have I gone without and that is what I was missing? lol Stock LCA bushings drove me nuts, they are on a timer like the crank pulley... its not a question of IF it will fail but WHEN. Those are gone and replaced on my R53 so I consider that to be back where the Mini "should be" without timers. Well, I take that back, the front strut top mounts could be in that ballpark as well. hehe Need to figure those out, keep leaning towards the Buddy Club coilovers as they come with everything needed.
Another $1000 and the ABS issue is fixed. He literally replaced the wheel hub that I have replaced twice already and that fixed it. I really don't understand. He believes the clutch slippage is due to a bad pressure plate, though he agrees that's odd given it's less than a year old. Have an appointment to do another clutch kit, tie rod ends for alignment, and poly lower control arm bushings on Dec. 2.
Congrats on getting it fixed! Incredibly annoying that it took so long, but at least you have ABS and traction control again.
I'm surprised about your clutch. You said you had changed the clutch before when it was slipping as well? Maybe something to do with the another part in the car that's not allowing the pressure plate to clamp correctly?
Congrats on getting it fixed! Incredibly annoying that it took so long, but at least you have ABS and traction control again.
I'm surprised about your clutch. You said you had changed the clutch before when it was slipping as well? Maybe something to do with the another part in the car that's not allowing the pressure plate to clamp correctly?
I have traction control disabled at the software level. DSC sucks and that's what my Quaife is for!
I did a Valeo single mass kit last year for the same symptoms. He thinks a bad pressure plate is the only solution.
I have traction control disabled at the software level. DSC sucks and that's what my Quaife is for!
I did a Valeo single mass kit last year for the same symptoms. He thinks a bad pressure plate is the only solution.
ABS then! Although I've got a similar setup to you and DSC has saved my butt on a couple occasions! Traction definitely kills the fun though. Were you able to kill traction control without killing DSC?
Fingers crossed its that! My Valeo has been great, but it is easy to get it to slip a little if you drop the clutch hard before the revs have had a moment to drop in-between gears at higher RPM; that doesn't seem to happen on my GP with the OEM clutch.
ABS then! Although I've got a similar setup to you and DSC has saved my butt on a couple occasions! Traction definitely kills the fun though. Were you able to kill traction control without killing DSC?
Fingers crossed its that! My Valeo has been great, but it is easy to get it to slip a little if you drop the clutch hard before the revs have had a moment to drop in-between gears at higher RPM; that doesn't seem to happen on my GP with the OEM clutch.
The only thing I've noticed DSC doing is very aggressively cutting power with any slip. I don't push the car hard in corners so I don't know how much of a difference DSC would make there, but the diff is very noticeable. Traction control is integrated with DSC, so they're both disabled.
I think the only thing I noticed between stock and Valeo was a lighter pedal, but I didn't mind the weight of the standard. I think it also chatters at takeoff. I'll probably go back to the stock kit if they'll charge me something comparable.
Going back in the shop again today, hopefully for the last time for awhile. Will have another clutch kit, Powerflex LCA bushings, new tie rod ends and alignment when she emerges this time.
Going back in the shop again today, hopefully for the last time for awhile. Will have another clutch kit, Powerflex LCA bushings, new tie rod ends and alignment when she emerges this time.
- replaced clutch kit (luk dmf + redline mtl fluid)
- replaced clutch release fork + bushings - replaced tie rod ends - alignment - installed powerflex lower control arm bushings - replaced coolant temperature sensor - installed ireland engineering fixed camber plates - replaced chain tensioner
Like I've said before, I think that the clutch didn't slip after I replaced it last year either and it just began developing the slip again recently. Hopefully it stays fixed. Went with the OEM Luk dual mass setup. It definitely feels like it's holding power now, pulls great from all gears. Really feels like an improvement even in second gear even though I didn't notice that slipping with the Valeo. I don't know why they replaced my coolant temperature sensor; I'm guessing they broke it.
The shop was also kind enough to install the OEM chain tensioner I had laying around and my Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates I've had for several years and never got around to installing either. I don't think they charged me for labor either (my final bill was still a cool $3,500 though).
It's cold and rainy here today but I'm finally off from school so I'll have plenty of time to test out the car over the next month.
Couldn't resist taking it out for a short spin. It really feels great. I'm sure the cold weather has something to do with it, but it really pulls exactly like I want it to. It doesn't need to be faster than this. Of course it's still a dog under ~3.5k RPM, but keep above that and it feels just fine. As for cornering, the camber plates and RSB make turn-in easy and the Quafe LSD just pulls the car through the corner under power with no understeer. Really fantastic. I'm not sure how much the Powerflex LCA bushings have added to the equation, but I'm happy with the car right now. Looking forward to some sunny - but still cold - days to take it out to the twisties and learn a little more about what it can do.
The stance of the car looks a little odd now with the -1.5 degrees of camber in the front, which just about matches the rear. Perhaps some 5mm spacers are in order.
Congrats on getting it back and enjoying the new setup! That's quite the bill, but makes sense for all the work that was done! Fingers crossed everything with the clutch works out with you! Did they give you a break-in amount of miles needed to bed the clutch correctly?
The biggest difference I felt with the powerflex LCAs was a disappearance of wandering in first and second gear when I went WOT; before the change (and Quaife) the car liked move around a little - almost like torque steer. I have similar fixed camber plates on the front suspension, and could really feel a difference with the turn-in. Still haven't noticed any camber wear on the insides too
Congrats on getting it back and enjoying the new setup! That's quite the bill, but makes sense for all the work that was done! Fingers crossed everything with the clutch works out with you! Did they give you a break-in amount of miles needed to bed the clutch correctly?
The biggest difference I felt with the powerflex LCAs was a disappearance of wandering in first and second gear when I went WOT; before the change (and Quaife) the car liked move around a little - almost like torque steer. I have similar fixed camber plates on the front suspension, and could really feel a difference with the turn-in. Still haven't noticed any camber wear on the insides too
The shop I used carries a 3 year/36k mile warranty on their work so if there were still a problem I'm sure it would present itself again before then. They didn't give me a break-in time. I think driving normally is just what you're supposed to do on a new clutch nowadays.
I think you're on to something with the LCAs. My dad said he noticed he didn't feel the car pulling to one side as much in low gears at WOT. I didn't really notice anything; just assumed it was the Quaife. The R53s steering is much lighter than any car I've driven while its been in the shop so turn-in feels very quick to me regardless of the camber plates. I'm sure there is an improvement.
I think next on the list will be a Wilwood 4-piston kit for the front brakes and some new struts or coilovers. Maybe something to be done in 2020 or 2021. I've also noticed a rattle when going over bumps from the rear end; I haven't investigated yet, but I'm hoping it's interior like maybe the new battery isn't held down properly, rather than my trailing arm swap causing issues. I've heard of the poly inserts for the trailing arm mount maybe causing a rattle? Or a squeak? I just hope it's not down there because I can't diagnose that stuff myself anymore; it would have to go into the shop for that.
So glad to hear you are happy with the setup! Back to some fun carefree motoring!
Good idea for the future upgrades. Remember, its a marathon, not a sprint! You have had your fair share of "fun" getting to this point! lol
Yup, exactly. I'm tired of worrying about the car, I just hope I can enjoy it for awhile without having to send it back to the shop. I might go out for some motoring today, in fact!
So, something of a major development today. I've noticed a sloshing noise from the dashboard area very infrequently since buying the car in 2015. Never knew what it was and it happened rarely enough that I didn't worry too much. In the last year or so, I've noticed (again, very rarely) some water come out of the front of the headliner and more recently pool straight on the floor from the A pillar. Finally pulled the headliner down a little to check the sunroof drain hose. It was connected. Checked the drain port itself and found it to be blocked at the top. Cleared that and dumped water on it and it cycled through no problem. I took out the rubber floor mat (that I put in very soon after buying the car) and vacuumed the water from the front of the carpet and was about to button everything up when I noticed my elbow was soaked from where I had it resting on the carpet. Pushed my hand down at the rear where it slopes into the seat and water shot through. Felt around at the front of the carpet and while I couldn't get any water to come through - in fact, it felt dry - I could hear literal sloshing from underneath. So I took the seat and kick panel out to pull the carpet partway up. The entire floor pan was flooded. The wiring harness was literally submerged. The carpet has a couple inches of foam padding underneath most of it, which is obviously thoroughly soaked. Considering I remember hearing sloshing when I bought the car, it's probably been like this for many years. All because of a teaspoon of sediment on the passenger sunroof drain port. I never noticed because there's no smell and I've always had the rubber floor mats so no water would come through when there was weight on the passenger floor. So I guess I'll spend tomorrow with a bunch of towels trying to sop it up without taking all the center console bits out.
I seem to remember reading awhile back that airbag codes have to be taken to the dealer to be cleared. I don't really want to put the seat back in just to hook that up. I have INPA on my laptop so surely that can clear the code given its the actual BMW diagnostic software, right?
It appears my BC1 is fried now that the harness is no longer fully submerged in water. How wonderful. Several exterior lights are now on all the time, hatch lock won't respond, high beams don't work, dash lights don't come on etc. How can it be that now that the water is purged from the wiring that it decides to get destroyed? Guess I'll just have to disconnect the battery every time I get out of the car and hope that no one gets confused from my lights. Super.
Anyone know what this grounds? I'm hoping this is my only problem. I don't see how I could have broken it when taking the carpet up and I didn't see any sheared wires anywhere. I looked back at my previous photos and it was missing yesterday. Maybe the water was causing it to still ground? I really don't know.
Well I either have at least 2 problems or the BC1 is indeed fried. I must have at least one short since the left side turn signals and rear fogs remain on all the time and I must also have at least one open since the electric hatch lock, high beams, dash lights, and windows don't work. There are probably more problems but I haven't driven the car yet. Really not sure what to do. Can't find where those elements would share a common ground. The ground I found that was broken in the previous post may not even be stock. I found pictures of the BC1 that includes that member that should have the ground on it and it's not there.
It would be in the lower left in both pictures where the metal raises.
There's another harness on the opposite side of the car that is probably also wet I would use electrical cleaner on all of those connectors unhook them clean them re-look them make sure there's no corrosion on the connectors
There's another harness on the opposite side of the car that is probably also wet I would use electrical cleaner on all of those connectors unhook them clean them re-look them make sure there's no corrosion on the connectors
The other side of the car is dry. I think all of this water stemmed from the blocked sunroof drain on the passenger side.
Tried accessing the BC1 with INPA. It doesn't report. Say it is toast. Is it even possible to program a used one to the car with ISTA? Obviously if my problems persist, it's going to have to be dealt with sooner than later. I couldn't figure out how to try and update it back when I wanted to code out bulb checks.
