We used to do those 14 to 16 hour work days when we had to do things out in the field. Not Fun. Especially after 2-4 days of them in a row. Hope all those work hours don't include having to drive, too.

Great that you decided to do the job yourself. Even with help, it's a heck of an undertaking... but saves a lot of money!

 

So I brought the car in tonight and unboxed all of my parts and equipment. Also replaced my fuel filter and its associated gaskets and o-rings. Just followed the Mod MINI video step by step and only managed to screw up the seals and plastic grommet that slip over the end of the fuel line at the filter housing. Popped the grommet out when I was prying on the housing (the seals fell out behind it) and got really scared that I wouldn't be able to push it back in, but I was able to use the fuel line to do it when I finished replacing the filter. Car started up fine after some time of sucking the fuel back up from the tank since I had relieved all the pressure from the fuel rail using the Schrader valve. No leaks, ended my night there.

I'm still so irrationally nervous about the clutch job, and I just know it's going to take me over a week even though I will have all day Monday to work. But I also know it must be done, so it will get done eventually. I hope I can at least drop the trans and maybe get the S/C service done on Monday. We'll see.

 

I broke my water temp sensor, it's right above the wiring harness that's above the transmission, next time I'll unhook that stupid thing before I start messing around with those bolts.

thankfully my spare engine had one so I'm almost up and running, bleeding the clutch was not fun, the clutch slave I ordered did not fit, the line socket on it is too big and fluid leaks out. Hope the original holds up

 

Car threw P0036 and P1689 codes, been clearing the P0036 for a couple weeks. P0036 is for the heater control circuit of the downstream O2 sensor. P1689 is actually an ECM torque calculation error, specifically that the torque value is out of range of the map. I guess this means my car is making too much torque for the ECM to read it properly? An interesting code, I'm kinda proud I have it.

Put it on the lift today and checked pins 3-4 of the downstream O2 sensor. Measured 6-8 ohms of resistance, so the circuit is complete. I don't know the standard value, but that seems about right for key off/engine off resistance. RockAuto has the OEM supplier of the O2 sensors (NTK) for only $94 each so I'm getting both for insurance. We'll see if they correct my condition.

On a side note, I don't think I'm having any driveability problems resulting from the code. I imagine the downstream sensor only measures catalyst efficiency and really wouldn't have much bearing on driveability.

I'm also getting a kind of pulsating/juttering at warm idle sometimes. It feels like the crank pulley is oscillating. I'm afraid I somehow screwed up the install, because the ATI is supposed to be the best dampened crank pulley you can buy. I noticed it has timing marks on the side of pulley, but how could those be useful unless you installed it in a very specific and precise way? Is there a correct orientation to install it? All I did to install was heat the bore, lubricate it with some grease, stuck it on the crankshaft snout (it kind of sucked itself on from the heat), and then impacted it down until tight.

 

Ordered a D-CAN OBD2 cable from bmcables.com today for $48 shipped. It comes with lots of different coding and diagnostic software, as well as factory repair manual procedures and wiring diagrams etc. Should be awesome if it works, especially for only $48 shipped. The main reason I'm getting it for now is just to turn off the cold and warm bulb checks so my LED turn signals will flash at the correct rate. But I'm looking forward to coding in some other options too.

 

get the ista/d and ista/p software with it, bimmerforums has request thread for ista/p it includes ista/d too

 

I think the cable comes with ISTA D and P, but I'll request it if not. Coding can be done with a few different programs in that little suite. DIS, NCSExpert, and SSS should work.

How'd the rest of your clutch install go?

 

ista/p is for programming modules with new factory software, ista/d is the new diagnostic software.

clutch all done, sending wideband logs to jan now for some tune cleanup

 

New factory software? New as in new on 2017 BMW's and stuff or new as in OEM for anything? I know it would work, but the other programs in the suite could do it too if I can't get it. Where is the thread for requesting the software?

Any issues with your install? Pretty straightforward?

 

just bmw/mini it's the factory software

coding <> programming, coding is just changing options, programming updates the software on the module.

I did a native windows 10 64bit install, it was painful the first time but after some practice I've gotten it down

it's on bimmerfest forum, in the coding section, ask for ista/p in the thread for it, it will include the newest ista/d too.

it's HUGE, you need like 100 gig

 

I'm confused. What would I need to program on an R53? Is there anything that needs updating? I'm just gonna be changing a few options I think, like the cold and warm bulb checks.

What do you mean you did a native Win10 install? On your PC? That was painful? Not really sure what you're talking about.

I'll check it out if the cable doesn't come with it. I hope it does. I don't have a PC anyway, I'm gonna try running it through Wineskin on my Mac.

 

if you ever have to install a new module you have to program them, I used it to update all the modules on my car to the newest, before I started coding.

I highly doubt it will work without bootcamp, and the ftdi drivers are picky

I bought a laptop just for the diagnostic software, and old dell with an ssd does the trick

 

What are you even updating when you update the module? Should I need to update my modules? I'm guessing I'll go through BC1 for the bulb checks.

Yeah, I figure I will probably need to use Bootcamp. A lot of work just to get my LEDs to flash right...

I'm considering that, but I don't know yet.

 

ista/d & ista/p require about 15 different vc++ libraries before it'll work

ista/p updates the software on the modules, when you start coding you'll see what I mean, there are multiple versions of software for a module. An example my x5 has a bug in the LCM, the fix is to update it to the newest software, I hate dealing with the dealers so I did it myself.

 

I got the ISTA software from bmcables tonight, looks like it will be impossible to install using Wine, so I'm trying to get Bootcamp set up again.

So will I just need ISTA D to do my coding and maybe ISTA P for updating modules, or will I also need NCS/DIS/INPA etc. for other stuff? Still confused on what they all do and why they're so split up. At Toyota, we just have TIS Techstream. I don't think we do any real coding though. Any programming is done through the respective ECU using built-in utility programs. They're pretty nice and straightforward. Like registering a new key is done through the immobilizer ECU and a built-in registration wizard.

It really seems like BMW's diagnostic suite is much more complicated and spread out, but more powerful I guess?

On a side note, do you think reversing how a warning light functions would be possible through ISTA D? When I install my LSD, I'm just gonna keep DSC off all the time since it will be useless (it really already is), but I'd rather not stare at the DSC light all day, so I'd like for the light to be off when DSC is off, and on when DSC is on. Then I guess I'd also need to somehow have DSC turn itself off on start, but I could probably just use my Ian Cull module for that.

 

Went in today to do an oil change and replace the oil pan gasket. Everything went pretty smoothly for awhile. I tried to do it without taking the bumper off and pushing the radiator forward, but ended up needing to do that to get to the top left A/C compressor bolt. Cleaned up the oil pan in the parts washer once it was out and reassembled. Then I went to put on the aluminum bumper. I stuck it on the top studs and then tried to wiggle the drivers side crash tube into position so the bumper would slide over its studs. When I did that, I think the bumper fell off the passenger side stud and swung down, hit me in the face, and then punctured the condenser. So I had to order a new cheap condenser from Autozone (this one I think).

Sucks to be me.

 

Replaced the condenser and receiver/dryer today. Recharged the refrigerant of course. Getting to and replacing the condenser is very easy. Only the bumper cover and aluminum bumper need to come off to remove it. I evacuated the system and pulled vacuum on it for a few minutes before disconnecting the A/C lines. The Spectra unit I got from Autozone came bent and some of the fins were pretty crushed. It easily bent back, however, and the fins are just going to get damaged anyway. Both the stock unit and the Spectra come with the receiver/dryer, which is convenient.

Recharging it was kind of a pain, but that was mostly thanks to the machine and my foreman. He's a very meticulous guy and I ended up pulling vacuum on the system for over 40 minutes to burn the water off. Long story short, recharging took a long time. But it blows fairly cold and doesn't leak so I'm fine with that.

A/C pressures were kind of concerning. Low side was fine at 30-40 psi, but the high side spikes at 290 psi and settles to around 250 psi with the fan going. Climbs pretty rapidly from 250-290 when the fan kicks off. Is this normal for these cars?

 

It went mostly fine, one of the things I should have done is label the bolts though. My mechanic said "naw its fine just throw them all in the same bin and we will figure it out on reassembly. Turns out we had 5 or 6 bolts left that we have no idea where they go, but its ok Misty runs great without em.

Tuesday we worked from 2pm to 9:30 at night with almost no breaks. Wednesday I started at 5am to finish disassembly to get the trans out. Around 9:30 it was out but no one had the valeo clutch conversion kit in stock so I had to wait until 1:30 to get it and only then realized that I did not order the rear main seal. So I had to go and get one all the way on the other side of Oakland from where my work is.

Once we started on the re-install, the hardest part for us (because we did not have a transmission jack available) was lining up the trans to go back inside the pressure plate and all. It took about 45 minutes to finally get it right. At about 6pm when all the parts shops were closed we realized that my coolant temp sensor had broken at some point in this whole process. I tried to epoxy it together to make it hold just for this trip. We reinstalled it and kept on moving with assembly. around 8 I went to go buy a case of beer for us to lighten the mood a bit. I was working on the top of the car while the mechanic was working on the subframe. Long story short at 2:00am Thursday we started the car and what do you know, water temp light came on! Guess what??? The epoxy didn't hold and the high speed fan was running. I cleared the check engine code and just let the fan run to get home for the night, to pack up the car for Coachella.

I get the car all packed and realize that I still need to go into a nearby town where my boss for coachella lives to pick up some signs and last minute things they need down there. The water light and high speed fan was on the whole time but I figured 45 minutes of that would be fine. Around 5:30 I pull back into work and disassemble my CAI and intake snorkel to get to the water temp sensor.

I then took a nap until a salvage yard up the street opened at 8am. Walked over there because I knew they had a 05 automatic mini that was being taken apart. I ask if I can get the sensor and the lady at the front desk said "if its still there" It was and one of their on-site mechanics took it off for me in about 10minutes. I walk into the front office with it and she says have a nice day, as in take it for free. By 9am I had the car all put back together with the new sensor and coolant added.

I started the car and no warning lights were on! I was on my way to say good bye to my girlfriend in SF and headed south by 11am. At this point I think I am on basically 32 hours of no sleep except for that quick nap. I made it to Indio, ca at 8pm to check in, got my tent set up and started work around 9:30 and went until Midnight. That is how my weekend of working 60 hours in 3 days started. But Misty and I survived and as I write this I am back at work in Oakland.

 

Sounds like an adventure! I'm going to try and stay organized during disassembly because I'd like to put everything back where I found it. I'm sure I'll still miss some things and I know it will probably take me forever, but I just want it done right bottom line.

Glad you got her all back up and running! Hope you enjoyed Coachella.

 

I think I know how I broke that on mine, it goes into the wiring harness that's bolted above the transmission, I was pulling on that crap trying to clear the bolts when I removed it.

Next time I'll unhook that sensor

 

Alright, I'm hitting roadblock after roadblock trying to code out my bulb checks. I need some help.

I installed Win10 via Bootcamp on my Mac and then installed INPA and ISTA/D and /P. Picked up the cable from the post office and installed NCSExpert and INPA again (the cable comes with a DVD that has an installer for all that stuff, just not ISTA).

The cable looks good and hooks up fine. The website says the R53 needs the DCAN side of the cable, but it works in KCAN for me.

First off, I can't get ISTA/P to work. It doesn't want to communicate with any of my modules. INPA doesn't do coding, so I skipped to NCSExpert.

Which module has the bulb checks? I assumed it was BC1 as that contains all the rest of the lighting options, but I can't find it in there when I dump the module contents into the trace file like you're supposed to do. I read it through NCSDummy and I still don't see any option for it. I've read in this thread of a guy coding all kinds of goodies into his R53, but I can't find several of his options. His trace file looks very different from mine.

I just need someone to walk me through the process.

 

Making a little progress on my own. Managed to code automatic unlocking on key off in. Doors now automatically unlock when you shut the car down so you don't have to pull the handle twice to get out of the car. So at least I understand how the coding should work with NCS.

Also found the bulb checks, but they are apparently in a different group in the BC1 module to the one I'm reading from. There's about 100 items in "BC1.C03", which is where I found the automatic unlocking, but using NCS Dummy I found there are several more groups to the BC1. The bulb checks are in "BC1.C05", with another 350+ items. I can't figure out how to dump that part of the module from NCS Expert. The only part that dumps is C03. Can you port the bulb checks from C05 to C03? I'm still confused.

 

Alright, after a little more research I now realize the "C03" and "C05" designations are not groups of the BC1, they are revisions. What I don't know is if those revisions are software or hardware. If they're software, I guess I could just update them with ISTA/P or something, but if not I'd have to replace the BC1 with a newer one and I don't want to do that just to get access to the bulb checks.

Mega72, do you know if it's possible to update from C03 to C05? That's just the next revision up. Really crappy how I keep getting foiled at every turn just trying to get these stupid turn signals to flash properly.

Also disabled DRLs since I can't get LEDs installed for them as the bulb is too big for the housing with the spring-clip retainer. Halved the speed required for the doors to automatically lock from 10mph to 5mph. Just thought it'd be a bit more appropriate there.

 

 

I did manage to get ISTA/P working but I don't see the BC1 anywhere in it.