I successfully built a resistor module that plugged directly into the yellow driver seat harness plug, and successfully prevented the airbag light from coming on during my first test. I will try to be as direct and deliberate as possible about what worked for me.

1) Resistor component: ordered 50pc of 3.9 ohm (3R9) 1/4 watt metal film resistors with 1% tolerance.
1a) I'm glad I ordered 50 because by the time I experimented with different approaches, I ended up with about 15 of them left.
1b) They ohmed out at about 4.3 on my good meter and 5.3 on my harbor fright freebie meter. Note that this is way out of spec for a 1% tolerance product but the result was no light, so this wasn't a problem

2)I wanted the module to be a "plug and play piece"
2a) so I got my Hobby Lobby on and I bought a few sewing thimbles made of semi flexible and translucent silicone
2b) and I bought some Christmas ornament hanger wire that mic'd out at 20 gauge (.032 or something).

3)Assembly was straightforward but I did it 10 times before I was happy and confident that I hadn't weakened the resistor leads by bending too much.
3a) I clipped 2pieces of the 20 ga stiff wire to about 1.25 inches, and wrapped the resistor leads around them, and bent them down to fit in the thimble.
3b)I tried to solder the resistor leads to the stiff wire but my soldering skill leaves much to be desired. So I wrapped the wraps with very thin copper strands from taking apart multi strand speaker wire to make sure there was a good connection before soldering. It looked ugly as hell but it was getting potted anyway

4) the secret sauce, potting with clear 2 part epoxy , 5 minute set 24 hr cure, like you can buy at hobby lobby or harbor freight in the multi-tube syringe.
4a) I didn't use much. I didn't fill the thimble. I stirred the two parts of the epoxy mix inside the thimble before inserting.

5) once cured, I tested resistance and installed. Perfect fit into the test ports of the harness, not the bigger openings where the blades go in the seat connector.

Tested and No Air Bag light! I installed with ignition off, but did not disconnect battery.

I will tape this up well to make sure it doesn't pop out. The fit is snug but there's no latch.

I wrote this in a hurry so please point out areas where I've been vague or unclear. I didn't see any other posts with this potted module approach so I hope it adds some value to the forum.

 

I wonder if an admin wouldn't mind changing the thread title to say " driver seat airbag" instead of just "driver airbag"

 

is this so you can run an aftermarket seat?

 

Yes. Sparco Evo II US. The brackets should be in today.

 

Nice job! We've had success running two 10s in parallel in a pinch, since 4 ohm resistors aren't available at our local Radio Shack.

 

Well done, little thimble thing works.

 

Nice work!... like the flower detail, too

 

Do any of you guys know if they're all the same? ie, passenger dash airbag, steering wheel airbag, seats - are they all 3.9 ohm?

Thanks!

Pat

 

Wondering about the steering wheel airbag also.

 

I swear I had it the other night...so frustrating. Had the passenger airbag back in...a pair of double 10ohm resistors in place of the steering wheel bag - was able to clear the light.

Then I made up a couple more 10ohm (doubled) sets to put in place of the passenger airbag. Now I can't clear the light even if I go back...can't even clear it if I put both bags back in place! I'm so frickin' done with this...taking the top of the dash off to see if I can get into the gauge cluster any way.

 

Pretty sure you'll be good with 2 10s run in parallel on the steering wheel (or the aforementioned 3.9s). I'm running that right now and getting no codes.

I believe I figured out my issue as well - when I was taking the passenger bag out to put the final resistors in place I pulled too hard and the pigtail came out of the harness - maybe someone here can correct me, but there were a couple little shunts in that plastic connector - guessing I tripped the airbag deployment in the computer or something?

And now I'd need to take to the dealer to get reset? ie, the B200 scanner can't clear that type of code?

 

My C310 scan tool clears the airbag code. It's under 'body,' I believe.

 

Schwaben MINI Scan tool clears also.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2975699/

 

My tool clears airbag codes, and did clear them initially, but aren't there some that can only be done by the dealer? Maybe I just don't have the resistors right still - but even going back to the bag itself and clearing the codes doesn't clear them anymore.

I have my gauge pod cracked open now but no joy there either. I miss the days of real bulbs. Was hoping I could maybe at least get to the LED (since a piece of electrical tape over it is going to be blatantly obvious)...maybe wire it to an Arduino board with bluetooth to my phone - wait for the mechanic to get in and light it up...shut it off after the car starts.

 

I think I'm cheesing out - putting electrical tape over the LED, under the gauge face. That way you'll still be able to see the little image of the person so it won't be as obvious. And then I won't have to deal with resistors next week when I put in the race seats...or in the future when the side curtain bags get taken out as well.

Just hope 'the man' doesn't notice the light doesn't come on when the key is first turned on.