R50/53 Emergency Plastic Key
Emergency Plastic Key
I finally decided to try my flat, plastic, emergency key in my late-2003 MCS and though it opens the doors, it does not start the car. I read some threads here that said it should, but when I went to Brecht Mini's service department in San Diego, the people there insisted it was only a "shut out key." The Mini Tech added that there 'probably was some kind of mid-year change from Mini' when I told them that members here posted messages saying they could start their car with the plastic key.
Any chance that this was true, that Mini started making plastic emergency keys that would only open the doors but not start the car? I'll call 1-866-ASK-MINI on Monday, but until then, I just thought I'd ask the community.
Any chance that this was true, that Mini started making plastic emergency keys that would only open the doors but not start the car? I'll call 1-866-ASK-MINI on Monday, but until then, I just thought I'd ask the community.
if the key has a chip in it the key should start the car. The chip is located in the round part that you turn the key with. Their statement does not sound correct. I use mine, but I have a first week 03.
John
John
I just looked at the '03 owner's manual; it says exactly what you mention above. It should start the car.
I've never used mine, but I know at least two people who've used theirs to start their cars.
I've never used mine, but I know at least two people who've used theirs to start their cars.
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Originally Posted by Iago
I finally decided to try my flat, plastic, emergency key in my late-2003 MCS and though it opens the doors, it does not start the car. I read some threads here that said it should, but when I went to Brecht Mini's service department in San Diego, the people there insisted it was only a "shut out key." The Mini Tech added that there 'probably was some kind of mid-year change from Mini' when I told them that members here posted messages saying they could start their car with the plastic key.
Any chance that this was true, that Mini started making plastic emergency keys that would only open the doors but not start the car? I'll call 1-866-ASK-MINI on Monday, but until then, I just thought I'd ask the community.
Any chance that this was true, that Mini started making plastic emergency keys that would only open the doors but not start the car? I'll call 1-866-ASK-MINI on Monday, but until then, I just thought I'd ask the community.
Dec. 2003 production date 2004 MINI, and my plastic key starts the car fine.
Tell them to try and start their demo model with the plastic key (for that car). Betcha a dollar that it does! Sounds like that you have a defective key, and your dealer is trying to weasel out of replacing it.
-Paul!
Tell them to try and start their demo model with the plastic key (for that car). Betcha a dollar that it does! Sounds like that you have a defective key, and your dealer is trying to weasel out of replacing it.
-Paul!
Last edited by Paul!; Jul 31, 2004 at 12:07 PM.
Originally Posted by JohnNC
My key just works as promised in our '04. We were told the plastic key needed to be used occaisionally in order for it to keep it's charge. Anyone ever heard this before?
Originally Posted by scooterboy
It's a myth. The chips are not recharged by putting the key in the ignition.
Originally Posted by JohnNC
My key just works as promised in our '04. We were told the plastic key needed to be used occaisionally in order for it to keep it's charge. Anyone ever heard this before?
In BMWs, there is an internal rechargeable battery in the key. The battery gets recharged when it is in the ignition. In the MINIs, at least in 04s and earlier cars, there is a disposable battery in the key.
Okay, time to clear up some key myths.
Each remote key contains two separate, internal systems not related to one another: the keyless entry/alarm remote, and the coded 'chip' used in the anti-theft system. The valet key contains only the 'chip'. This 'chip' uses RFID (radio-frequency identification) technology many of you have undoubtedly heard of.
The remote transmitter uses a disposable, 3 volt lithium cell as a power source. This comes into play only when you press the buttons on the key. Each key is preprogrammed with a unique bit pattern or 'code' during manufacture, much the same as modern garage door opener remotes. The keyless entry/alarm subsystem in the car now must 'learn' the bit pattern sent by the key in order for it to work with a particular car. This process is done at the factory, and is also done at the dealer if you ever need to have a key made or replaced. Again, this is almost identical to a modern garage door opener setup. The battery is never recharged; if it dies, the only thing you will lose is the remote function of the key. You can still open the door using the key in the lock. The transmitter sends out a signal when the buttons are pressed, this is picked up by a receiver mounted above the rearview mirror, inside the headliner. When the receiver detects a signal, it's compared to the one stored in the keyless entry subsystem. If the code in the signal matches what the car has stored, it will respond according to the botton pressed. This is the extent of the remote function in the key.
You can walk through a lot full of MINIs and press the button on your remote. All of the receivers in range will detect this, but since your security code sent by the remote does not match any stored in those cars, they will not respond.
The 'chip' used for the anti-theft system has two functions in our case. One, it hold a unique code, much the same as the remote transmitter does. This code gets read when the key is inserted in the ignition by a reader coil surrounding the lock cylinder. The reader coil emits a radio-frequency magnetic field in the area of the lock cylinder. This RF field energizes the chip(powers it wirelessly), which transmits (again, wirelessly) the code back to the reader coil, where it is picked up and processed by the engine management computer (ECU). If the code matches what the computer has stored, it will then allow the engine to be started. The second function of the chip is rather cool. Once the chip is verified by the ECU as valid, the ECU will then transmit back to the key the current mileage of the car, the VIN, as well as any diagnostic codes stored in the ECU. The 'chip' has the ability to not only hold and send information, but receive and store it as well. Information held in the chip is stored in non-volatile memory, which does not need a power source to remain stored.
Note now that the remote and the key-verifying 'chip' are two completely separate entities. They can and will work separated from one another.
The reason why the dealer recommends that you periodically use all the keys is to make sure current vehicle info is stored in the 'chip'. If you take your car in for service (say the check engine light is on), the dealer often will insert your key into a reader on their desks that's hooked to a PC. This reader energizes the 'chip' the same way as does the reader in the lock, the PC then reads the vehicle data without the need to visit the car at all. The reason for the check engine light coming on is displayed right on their screen, no one needs to touch the car at this point. If you hand the dealer your 'extra' key that has not been used in the car in a while, it will not contain up-to-date info; it would contain the info from when that key was last used (and probably werent having any problems with the car). In this case, a technician will have to first connect a reader to the car and get all the current diagnostic information on the car, taking extra time. If you take your car in for service, do everyone a favor and use the key that you are going to leave with them.
The plastic valet key contains the 'chip' in the round end, under a black sticky cover. (the 'chip' itself is very small, roughly the size of a Tic-Tac). No batteries are used here.
The function of the 'chip' would be familiar to anyone who has ever used a Mobil 'Speed Pass' to buy gas at the pump without cash, or has to use a security badge where they work that works by proximity to a reader on a wall to allow access to a building or room. It's the same sort of technology.
In short, the only reason to use all the keys periodically is to keep the info in all of them current. The battery in the remote will eventually have to be replaced when it dies, this is a simple process of prying open the key, slipping out the old cell, and replacing it with a new one. The remote is the same as those that were once separate from the keys of other cars and built into a key fob. The circuitry has just been made a bit smaller to be piggybacked onto the key itself, in one (rather large, still) package.
Each remote key contains two separate, internal systems not related to one another: the keyless entry/alarm remote, and the coded 'chip' used in the anti-theft system. The valet key contains only the 'chip'. This 'chip' uses RFID (radio-frequency identification) technology many of you have undoubtedly heard of.
The remote transmitter uses a disposable, 3 volt lithium cell as a power source. This comes into play only when you press the buttons on the key. Each key is preprogrammed with a unique bit pattern or 'code' during manufacture, much the same as modern garage door opener remotes. The keyless entry/alarm subsystem in the car now must 'learn' the bit pattern sent by the key in order for it to work with a particular car. This process is done at the factory, and is also done at the dealer if you ever need to have a key made or replaced. Again, this is almost identical to a modern garage door opener setup. The battery is never recharged; if it dies, the only thing you will lose is the remote function of the key. You can still open the door using the key in the lock. The transmitter sends out a signal when the buttons are pressed, this is picked up by a receiver mounted above the rearview mirror, inside the headliner. When the receiver detects a signal, it's compared to the one stored in the keyless entry subsystem. If the code in the signal matches what the car has stored, it will respond according to the botton pressed. This is the extent of the remote function in the key.
You can walk through a lot full of MINIs and press the button on your remote. All of the receivers in range will detect this, but since your security code sent by the remote does not match any stored in those cars, they will not respond.
The 'chip' used for the anti-theft system has two functions in our case. One, it hold a unique code, much the same as the remote transmitter does. This code gets read when the key is inserted in the ignition by a reader coil surrounding the lock cylinder. The reader coil emits a radio-frequency magnetic field in the area of the lock cylinder. This RF field energizes the chip(powers it wirelessly), which transmits (again, wirelessly) the code back to the reader coil, where it is picked up and processed by the engine management computer (ECU). If the code matches what the computer has stored, it will then allow the engine to be started. The second function of the chip is rather cool. Once the chip is verified by the ECU as valid, the ECU will then transmit back to the key the current mileage of the car, the VIN, as well as any diagnostic codes stored in the ECU. The 'chip' has the ability to not only hold and send information, but receive and store it as well. Information held in the chip is stored in non-volatile memory, which does not need a power source to remain stored.
Note now that the remote and the key-verifying 'chip' are two completely separate entities. They can and will work separated from one another.
The reason why the dealer recommends that you periodically use all the keys is to make sure current vehicle info is stored in the 'chip'. If you take your car in for service (say the check engine light is on), the dealer often will insert your key into a reader on their desks that's hooked to a PC. This reader energizes the 'chip' the same way as does the reader in the lock, the PC then reads the vehicle data without the need to visit the car at all. The reason for the check engine light coming on is displayed right on their screen, no one needs to touch the car at this point. If you hand the dealer your 'extra' key that has not been used in the car in a while, it will not contain up-to-date info; it would contain the info from when that key was last used (and probably werent having any problems with the car). In this case, a technician will have to first connect a reader to the car and get all the current diagnostic information on the car, taking extra time. If you take your car in for service, do everyone a favor and use the key that you are going to leave with them.
The plastic valet key contains the 'chip' in the round end, under a black sticky cover. (the 'chip' itself is very small, roughly the size of a Tic-Tac). No batteries are used here.
The function of the 'chip' would be familiar to anyone who has ever used a Mobil 'Speed Pass' to buy gas at the pump without cash, or has to use a security badge where they work that works by proximity to a reader on a wall to allow access to a building or room. It's the same sort of technology.
In short, the only reason to use all the keys periodically is to keep the info in all of them current. The battery in the remote will eventually have to be replaced when it dies, this is a simple process of prying open the key, slipping out the old cell, and replacing it with a new one. The remote is the same as those that were once separate from the keys of other cars and built into a key fob. The circuitry has just been made a bit smaller to be piggybacked onto the key itself, in one (rather large, still) package.




