R50/53 Selling my modded Mini
Selling my modded Mini
I'm looking for advice on the most effective method of selling my modified r53 (for financial reasons). My last car was modified and pleasantly sold however it was under 30k miles and very subtly modified, mostly bolt ons. My Mini has been dedicated to AutoX and as a weekend fun-machine and has the mod list below.
I'm juggling the ideas of using the typical Craigslist, hoping to connect with a fellow enthusiast from these forums and visiting the local car meets. Any advice on finding the right buyer in those areas would be appreciated as well as any other ways to find a fellow enthusiast.
Thanks.
In case it's informative to post a full mod list:
Thumper TPR-1 ported head
1320 CAT cam
Ported intake manifold
550cc bosch injectors
Adjusted cam gear
15% pulley
OBX header /w retained OEM cat
Milltek Exhaust
DetroitTuned BPV
DDM Works Cold Air Intake
GP Intercooler
DDM Works diverter
ByteTronik tuned
AEM AFR gauge
19mm rear anti-sway bar
IE Fix camber plates
JCW springs
Koni Yellow shocks
Poly bushing for lower engine, front sway, LCA, steering rack & RTA
RPF1 wheels with Direzza ZII tires
edit: Multiple issues have been fixed with the car as the ByteTronik CRM was completed and some settings tweaked.
I'm juggling the ideas of using the typical Craigslist, hoping to connect with a fellow enthusiast from these forums and visiting the local car meets. Any advice on finding the right buyer in those areas would be appreciated as well as any other ways to find a fellow enthusiast.
Thanks.
In case it's informative to post a full mod list:
Thumper TPR-1 ported head
1320 CAT cam
Ported intake manifold
550cc bosch injectors
Adjusted cam gear
15% pulley
OBX header /w retained OEM cat
Milltek Exhaust
DetroitTuned BPV
DDM Works Cold Air Intake
GP Intercooler
DDM Works diverter
ByteTronik tuned
AEM AFR gauge
19mm rear anti-sway bar
IE Fix camber plates
JCW springs
Koni Yellow shocks
Poly bushing for lower engine, front sway, LCA, steering rack & RTA
RPF1 wheels with Direzza ZII tires
edit: Multiple issues have been fixed with the car as the ByteTronik CRM was completed and some settings tweaked.
Last edited by CornerHugger; Oct 29, 2014 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Multiple issues have been fixed with the car as the ByteTronik CRM was completed and some settings tweaked.
Difficult situation...wondering if going to an Auto-X and doing very well with a for sale sign might work out for you? Also have you considered parting out the modifications and taking it back to stock so that is runs normally? It will definitely not appeal well to anyone but an enthusiast and even with that they will wonder what serious issues await with a car that keeps stalling out.
parting the aftermarket parts out and getting stock ones back would get you more money. it would take longer and involve more of your time. selling as is your looking for the niche buyer which in itself could take about the same time, longer, but if your lucky and reach out to the right people could be quickly. less net income i would imagine.
also with the listed mods, im not sure why you say it idles rough, ive seen much more aggressive builds run like a charm
good luck, if you do decide to part out, i would be interested in a few of the items on there =)
also with the listed mods, im not sure why you say it idles rough, ive seen much more aggressive builds run like a charm
good luck, if you do decide to part out, i would be interested in a few of the items on there =)
That is exactly what I said in a PM to him, its the only way to see anything back on the car, and well I would love to get that GP intercooler!
That or take the gamble on Fleabay and know that you will most likely lose a lot of money.
It's the curse of project cars/bikes
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He's asking advice on the best way to sell the car.
He is not asking who to blame for its faults.
There may be plenty of racers/Cali folk who would buy as is dependent on price, but
unless you can restore it to OEM you will loose much $$$.
He is not asking who to blame for its faults.
There may be plenty of racers/Cali folk who would buy as is dependent on price, but
unless you can restore it to OEM you will loose much $$$.
I'm looking for advice on the most effective method of selling my modified r53 (for financial reasons). My last car was modified and pleasantly sold however it was under 30k miles and very subtly modified, mostly bolt ons. My Mini has been dedicated to AutoX and weekend fun-machine and thus is rather "uncivilized" relatively speaking. For example, the car does not behave well at all while cold. A 2-3 min warmup idle is necessary unless you want to fight red-light stalling. Also with the AC enabled the car has a tendency to stall during 1st gear starts. It also has a occasional rough idle commonly associated with the installed CAT cam and large injectors but I'm told that it's harmless. Lastly, it has a slight pull to the right while cruising and the exhaust isn't exactly 100% in the middle of the exhaust port and can sometimes give a rattle at idle. Other than that it's an above-average running and maintained machine. Basically it's a worthy DD but dislikes idling and loves 4k+.
The cold-start warm up cycle is build into the BMW code, and there is no way to by-pass that routine (unless you convert over to a stand-alone ECU).
cheers.
BT
If I remember correctly, we never completed your CRM session. Tune file #6 was sent to you on 12/9/2013 and we are waiting for the logs from you so we can finalize your tune.
The cold-start warm up cycle is build into the BMW code, and there is no way to by-pass that routine (unless you convert over to a stand-alone ECU).
cheers.
BT
The cold-start warm up cycle is build into the BMW code, and there is no way to by-pass that routine (unless you convert over to a stand-alone ECU).
cheers.
BT
So if you don't like the current tune inside the ecu, you can flash the "stock tune" back into the ecu and it will be the same tune as what you have in the car originally (while still keeping the ability to data-log b/c FA remains loaded in that ecu).
Or if you want to completely remove FA from the ecu, simply select the "Stock rom" and do a "Return ECU to stock" and that will completely remove FA from the ECU and return it back to your original configuration.
BT
SNIP . . .
One of the things I might suggest is a more timely followup to your ad, been several days and nothing back from you even though several people have shown interest, sometimes you have to strike when the "Iron Is Hot".
I understand that 'life' happens, but you are going to have to have a better follow-up, if you really want to sell the car/parts.
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