R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 2005 MCS Rally Tribute Build

  #1  
Old 06-02-2014, 08:16 AM
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2005 MCS Rally Tribute Build

Goal
Modify my 2005 R53 MCS to pay tribute to the Minis that won the Monte Carlo Rally in 1964, 1965, and 1967. This project will include both visual and performance modifications.

I'll document the modifications as they are completed.

Background
In 1964, British Leland shocked the automotive world by winning the Monte Carlo Rally with a factory Mini Cooper driven by Paddy Hopkirk.



Number 37 and Paddy Hopkirk became an automotive icon. Paddy still sells Classic Mini gear and other memorabilia today on the MiniSport web site.

The Mini victory was repeated in 1965. In 1966, factory Minis took the first four places but were disqualified for using iodine headlights in a decision many felt was political. But Mini came back in 1967 to win again with car 177, driven by Rauno Aaltonen.



Of course, that is not the last time Minis or MINIs competed in a rally. BMW has also capitalized on the Mini history by issuing commerative editions.

This commerative edition R53 came along in 2004 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the initial Monte Carlo win.



Mini has announced a 2014 R56 commemorating the 50th anniversary of the Monte Carlo win.



Aside from the two commemorative editions, a number of Minis have been dressed in Rally garb. This is a Countryman.



And here are a couple of MCS's.




Lots of looks. Let's see what we have to work with.
 

Last edited by TomFarin; 06-02-2014 at 08:33 AM.
  #2  
Old 06-02-2014, 08:31 AM
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2005 MCS - Before Modifications

I went to the Dragon the first time in 2010 driving what is now my wife's 2011 R57 convertible. I was hooked. Not very long after returning home I purchased a 2005 MCS. It has served me well for three years and now has 83,000 miles. I was thinking about trading it on a new MINI. But I'm retiring this year and will have more time to work on cars. And it is once not to have a payment. So I decided to keep it and put some of the 'new car' money into mods.

As you can see, my starting point is a fairly basic looking 2005 MCS in Chili Red. There is no body damage and it has good paint. Rather than the center speedo, it has the gauge package. To me, that's a good reason for keeping it all by itself.

In the front it sports a MINI chrome grill and chrome headlight trim.



On the side, more chrome, and a set of factory wheels.



And on the rear is the one modification I've put on the exterior of the MINI, just above the CooperS mark, a small black dragon which suggests to those in the know that this MINI may be a dragon slayer.



Pretty tame looking, huh. Nothing to suggest a potential rally winner. Nothing to suggest the visceral growl of the supercharged engine. Nothing to suggest that this car can really take a corner. Nothing to suggest how much fun it is to drive.

We need to do something about this!
 
  #3  
Old 06-02-2014, 08:52 AM
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sky is the limit! i am interested
 
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:35 AM
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here are some photos of my ongoing 'triubte' car build....R56 but it might give you some ideas.







2005 MCS Rally Tribute Build-dbig956h.jpg

2005 MCS Rally Tribute Build-tkhushlh.jpg

2005 MCS Rally Tribute Build-02aeq8xh.jpg
 
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Old 06-02-2014, 02:47 PM
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MCAmeron Tribute

Pretty cool. Wish mine had a white top. I like the A pillar. Lights are a must. As you will see, I'm going low with mine and old school. Brackets were mounted this afternoon. Grille swapped out to black.

You went with Paddy's number (37). I decided to do the 1967 winner, 177 driven by Rauno Aaltonen just to be a bit different.

You kept a small amount of chrome. I'm going to do the same.

I'm waiting on hood stripes. I have the Monte Carlo Rally winners decal on order -- a hood application. I want to see how it looks before I decide on hood stripes.



My wheels will hark back to the sports car world of the 60s. More on this later.

Thanks for the help and nice MINI tribute.

Tom
 
  #6  
Old 06-02-2014, 03:29 PM
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MCS Rally Tribute Concept

Rally Tribute - The Concept
We went on a ride with a bunch of friends Saturday. My wife kept saying. Tom, you are thinking about something. I guess it is because my hands and mouth moves when I'm thinking seriously. Yes, I've been obsessing about this build - for about 9 months.

Last fall we bought a 1988 Classic Mini. It was to be my rally tribute car. If you've ever driven one you understand my frustration. This Mini is probably around 48 horsepower. I would be reluctant to take it much over 60. It is marginally safer than my Harley. If you want to go on runs with friends, this isn't your car. It will go on the blocks as soon as I get the SU cab sorted out. That's the other thing about classic Minis. There is always something to get sorted out. And if you think owning a BMW MINI can be expensive, try out a Classic!

Meanwhile, my 2005 has been a daily driver. It is fast, fun, corners well. Then there is that supercharger whine. And it is the right color, RED!

So how do you pay homage to the past with a car from the present? In my mind, you capitalize on all the technological advantages that have come our way in the last 50 years. But you pay homage to the past, by using parts, images, and the aura of the past.

So my MINI (or is it Mini?) will be a bit of a Mixed breed - a combination of old and new.

In no particular order, here are my concepts for this build.
Paddy Harrington and his No 37 are icons. But as a result, tribute cars with No 37 are common. MINI has even produced one. I'm going to go with the 1967 Monte Carlo Rally winner No 177 driven by Rauno Aaltonen.



Why? Because I can. Like thousands of MINI owners before me, I want my MINI to be unique! I located the hood tribute to the 1967 win on the Web. It is on its way to me. It was generally placed on the hood of the winner.



I have to admit I hate (or is it loathe) the square block entrant numbering used in the Monte Carlo Rally. I just won't put it on the side of my car. End of discussion!

On the other hand, I think the numbering on this MINI is very cool.



So I Beat Google to death and guess what I found?



This seller provides custom lettering in the number area. Guess what? Number 177 is on order! How cool is that?

If you have looked over my photos, my 2005 has a fair amount of chrome. I have no problem with chrome. It is what we spent hours polishing in the 60s. But I believe chrome should be used minimally. When you see my wheels (a throwback to 60s mag wheels) you will understand that there will be minimal chrome on the side of my MINI. I want you to experience wheels as they were in the 60s -- mag wheels, without a lot of chrome distraction.

I also need to reduce the amount of chrome from the front. In fact, that is my first project - along with the missing rally lights.

To pull random thoughts together, every rally tribute car needs to have:
1. Fog and driving lights - the bigger the better!
2. A roof rack. Where else in or on a MINI would you cary your spare?
3. A race number. Are we serious or what?
4. Evidence that we actually ran something or won something - no fake tributes for me!!
5. Glorious wheels - the further they throw back, the better.
6. Minimal chrome.
7. Performance mods - the subject of a different set of posts.
8. Sponsor decals - what self respecting rally car wouldn't have sponsors fighting for space.

Help me out here. What else should my rally tribute have/be?
 
  #7  
Old 06-02-2014, 03:56 PM
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Mods - Step 1

I think the ugliest part of my 2005 MCS is the front view. It says "I'm pretty" to me. That is not the image I'm looking for.



I set you up today with my prior posts. I apologize. I had a day off and planned to make some progress. My first goal was to eliminate some of the front chrome. That meant swapping the grill from chrome to black.



But as long as I had the front bumper off, I also decided to mount the brackets for my driving lights. If you look closely,you can see the brackets poking out at the bottom of the lowest grill. Driving lights will be next.



I think this MINI is a lot more purposeful. Yes, I eliminated some chrome by swapping to a black grill. But I added a bit of chrome back. A not entirely subtle that reminder that the driver of this MINI has run the Dragon 12 times.
 
  #8  
Old 06-03-2014, 04:54 AM
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Rally Lights

Now we're talkin'



OK. So now I would like your opinion. The lights add quite a bit of bling (chrome/glass) to the front end. If you look back, all of the Rally Minis of the 60s had chrome. Before installing the lights, I had been thinking I should plastidip the headlight trim (black) and change out the chrome mirror surrounds. Now I'm not so sure.

What do you think?

Tom
 
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:10 AM
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Pending Purchases

Near Term Pending Purchases
As long as i'm soliciting opinions I'd like yours on three pending purchases.

Wheels - I want an old school mag wheel look. The Rota RB in Hyperblack reminds me of the sports cars my buddy and I watched racing at Elkart Lake in the late 60s. What do you think? Is there an alternative to the Rota RB with a similar look?



Roof Rack - I spent a lot of time looking at options here, I keep coming back to the factory roof rack. Yes, holes need to be drilled in the roof. But underneath the skin are welded attachment points. Capacity is in excess of 150 pounds. And the look is relatively uncomplicated.

I have a set of Thule mounts for Kayaks that are currently on my Chevy Avalanche. My wife and I are a bit old to be hoisting kayaks on an Avalanche. The height of the MINI is perfect. They should attach directly to the cross bars.


Roof Basket - In addition to the Kayak carriers, I also want to be able to attach a roof basket. I'm leaning toward the Rhino Rack Xtray Small.



I may be able to use the Monte Carlo 177 Victory decal over the Rhino Rack wind deflector.



I'd appreciate any suggestions you might have.

Tom
 
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Old 06-03-2014, 06:30 AM
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i love roof baskets
 
  #11  
Old 06-03-2014, 11:23 AM
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Looks like someones been busy since we talked last.

I really like what you've done so far
 
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:43 AM
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Feedback

Salty and Jud,

Thank you for the feedback.

In case the rest of you haven't figured it out, Jud and his wife were two of the buddies we ran around with on Saturday. They also carpooled with us to the Dragon a few weeks back.

My wiring harnesses for the lights just arrived along with a bit more grill bling. Need to get to work.

Tom
 
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:40 AM
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Nice addition to the grill...and I love the lights!
 

Last edited by Judscoop; 06-04-2014 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:42 PM
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heres what I did


 
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:21 PM
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JPMM,

Your stripes are cool. I like the way you carried the stripe colors into the wheels. And I think the way you handled the headlight trim is right on. How did you paint the trim?

The John Cooper signature was found on a number of Classic Minis. I had been thinking about adding that piece but I wouldn't have thought to do it on the stripes, although I've seen it there on a number of Classic Minis.

The grill bling I talked about in my previous post was an England badge with the Union Jack. But it is too big for the grill area so I'm taking it back off. Maybe I'll find a spot for it later.

Good work!

Tom
 
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Old 06-04-2014, 02:23 PM
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Mcameron,

Could you share what kind of driving lights and brackets you have installed?

I'm wondering on the brackets whether it would be possible to position them with a bigger gap in the middle instead of evenly spacing them? (one of TomFarin's images in the OP shows this)

TIA!
 
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:03 PM
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I just showed Deb your thread...she's in awe!

We can't wait to see your next move!

We're up for "Bitchin Bobs BBQ" when ever you're ready.
 
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:02 PM
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Frustrating Day

I was hoping to make some progress today.

Roof Rack
I indicated earlier I wanted to go with the factory roof rack. So I called my dealer. $245 for parts. $345 for labor. Over $600 including the tax. I've heard worse quotes so I should feel blessed, I guess. The most galling part is MINI wants $40 for installation tools. When the dealer is installing the parts! I thought one of the reasons you went to a dealer for installation is so you didn't have to buy tools. The primary installation tool is a hole saw bit. Yikes, $40 for a single bit. Must be made from gold.

So I went to the aftermarket vendors. One has the rack and installation hardware for around $200. But not the tools. He suggested i go to the hardware store for the hole saw bit. It is scary enough to be drilling holes in a MINI roof without using the tools designed to do the job.

Yes I checked out Yakima, Thule, and Inno. They don't have the look I want and could easily damage the roof rails. But there are no holes to drill. I'm still agonizing over this one.

Wheels and Tires
I plan to go with the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3's. They seem to be near a summer tire in performance in an all-season tire. I was already to order them from TireRack but decided to check availability of the Rota RB wheels in Hyperblack. The primarily supplier of these wheels to the MINI community won't have them until some time in July.

I'm trying to get this MINI ready for MINIs Take the States in August. So I'm procrastinating on that decision too.

The crowning frustration was what is going on with the power top of my wife's 2011 R57. Yes, add in a dealer who is blaming my wife for the fact the top gets stuck in the down position. That's discussed in a thread in the 2nd Generation R57 forum. Of course as the thread indicates the same thing has happened to a number of others. Grrrrrr.

Thanks for letting me whine on your shoulders.

Tom
 
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Old 06-05-2014, 10:04 AM
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What a Difference A Day Makes!

Feeling a lot better today.

1. My MINI dealer acknowledges the problem with the top probably wasn't operator error. We're waiting for the next reoccurrance.

2. I decided to let the dealer install the factory rack. They took the $40 charge for tools off the estimate as they already have the tools.

3. I found the Rota RBs on line late last night (eBay) and did a "Buy it Now." I should have them within a week. I'm waiting for a tire/wheel deal from the vendor. If they don't get back to me today, I'll order the tires from TireRack and have them mounted locally.

I decided to go with 16" rather than 17" wheels for three reasons.
1. They are cheaper - wheels, tires and mounting.
2. We live in pothole country (Wisconsin). Last year on the way back from the Dragon on my wife's 2011 with 17" wheels, we rolled over a pothole on the Illinois Tollway at 70 mph. It took out two wheels and one tire. I'd like to have a little more cushon between the wheel rim and the tread of the tire. I may give up a bit of handling but hopefully the tires and a rear sway bar will more than compensate.
3. Classic Minis had small wheels and big tires. The original Mini had 9" wheels.

My 1967 Monte Carlo Rally winner's decal showed up today. I laid it on the hood and took this shot.


The white paper outside the silver border of the sticker is backing paper. Color is fairly close to Chili Red. I'm going to experiment a bit with where to put it tonight.

My other grill bling I talked about a few posts back is the England Union Jack badge on the left of the photo. I think it is too large for that location and will probably take it back off.

Back to the sticker. I think it will look quite a bit better once installed than the 40th anniversary sticker on the 2004 MINI 40th anniversary tribute car.



Another box showed up while I was writing this post. I'll bet it is the side racing number graphics. I'll post photos tonight.

Tom
 

Last edited by TomFarin; 06-05-2014 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:20 AM
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Could you install the Monte Carlos decal over the top of a black, white or checkerboard oval or circle? Or over the top of a set of ralley stripes?

I like the wheels...they'll look cool on your project car!
 
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:30 AM
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i really enjoy my Q tower system from yakima. not sure how it would damage the roof rails, it clips underneath it, thule goes around it.

as for drilling your roof, i would get the template for drilling your roof and get a nitride coated drill, not a hole saw. and for added security i would create a small dimple from a punch for the drill to help alleviate walking of the drill

granted this post is a bit late
 
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Old 06-05-2014, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jcauseyfd
Mcameron,

Could you share what kind of driving lights and brackets you have installed?

I'm wondering on the brackets whether it would be possible to position them with a bigger gap in the middle instead of evenly spacing them? (one of TomFarin's images in the OP shows this)

TIA!
im using the VIP Custom light bar.......i see no reason you cannot position them with a larger gap in the middle, however you would need to drill new mounting holes in the cross bar.

the bulbs are 100W landing lights off a Cessna.....the light housing are a standard PAR36 light housing, i think i bought mine at Harbor freight, they sell them as tractor lights....i just swapped the bulbs out.
 
  #23  
Old 06-05-2014, 06:01 PM
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Response to Comments

Jud,

Yes, we're going to need to do Bitchin Bob's Barbecue again soon. A hole in the wall rated 4.7 on TripAdvisor with great brisket is worth a revisit.

I like your idea of placing the Monte Carlo Decal on some contrasting background. I cut the paper backing down to a bit over decal size to see whether it would fit inside the hood scoop. A little too big.

The next best idea is to lay it on top of a hood stripe. I like Viper stripes. I'll have to look at options that would place it just above the scoop.

McAmeron,

Thanks for following up on the question relating to driver light spacing. For those of you that might be interested, I used the OutMotoring brackets that allow you to choose from three height levels. They feel much more solid than the factory brackets. Spacing is more limited as they are installed through the R53, R52, or R50 bumper holes. But you could create more spacing between the middle two lights.

Salty,

A copy if the installation manual for the factory brackets is at the OutMotoring web site. I've read it front-to-back 3-4 times. Templates are provided. In installing, you drill a small hole at the points indicated by the template. Then you check to see how close to center of the threaded holes in the roof frame you are. You go to progressively larger holes until your hole is the same size as the threaded holes in the roof frame. If the hole is off center, you need to use something like a Dremelwith a routing bit to correct the problem.

You then screw a threaded rod into the hole. The factory hole saw fits around the threaded rod and further routes out the hole to accept the post the rack mounts to. That part is larger in diameter than the threaded hole in the roof frame. The hole saw fits over the threaded rod and further expands the hole, insuring that the hole's diameter is the same distance all the way around from the threaded rod.

That's the part that scares me about using hardware store parts. How do I locate a hole saw bit that has the same inside diameter of the threaded post and the thickness needed to further expand the hole without oversizing the hole and creating a water problem?

The top tech at my MINI store has installed 5-6 of these roof racks. He tells me the initial holes are never on center. He says it takes him 4-5 hours to install a roof rack. He is a very exact guy. So I said, "If I'm being charged three hours for installation, you must think its a pretty good deal." He agreed. I said, "you have the job."

I don't need to be screwing up my roof.

As for Thule and Yakima, both racks are fine for their intended purpose -- mounting bike racks, kayak racks, ski racks, etc. They are limited to under 100 pounds, however, and if you over tighten you can damage the plastic drip rails.

I want a look that is reminiscent of the roof racks on the 60s factory rally cars. Of course, those were 1 piece rack/basket combinations. What I like about the factory rack is that its width was sized for the MINI. So if I install a basket on top, there won't be these rods hanging over the edges. Yet the factory rack accepts Thule and Yakima accessories (including my Thule Kayak racks) and will handle 160 pounds.

Yes, posts will stick up when the cross bars are removed. But as long as I can address the wind noise issue, I won't be removing the cross bars.

Tom
 
  #24  
Old 06-06-2014, 01:52 AM
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Decals

I just ordered the Michelins from TireRack. Hopefully tires and rims will be here by late next week.

Decals

I opened the box containing the side decals. They look great - like these but with 177 in the number area.



I came across these two images of a commemorative MINI released in 2006 recognizing the win by Rauno Aaltonen in the 1967 Monte Carlo Rally. The side striping is similar to the side striping I ordered, sans number 177. I like the way they handled the hood, roof, and boot striping.





It will require some custom striping as I want to incorporate the Monte Carlo Rally striping in the design just above the hood scoop. I think it will really pop laying on top of the white stripes.



Are we having fun yet? I am!

Tom
 
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Old 06-06-2014, 02:09 AM
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Performance Mods

I promised I'd take this up a bit later. So here is my thought process at a conceptual level.

General Concept

This is a street car. I don't have any aspirations to use it on a track. The most aggressive driving it is likely to see is on the twisties, roads like the Dragon. I also plan to use it as a daily driver, at least in summer. But it also needs to be available for winter use. I have a set of Blizzaks mounted on a separate set of wheels. It does pretty well in snow - until the snow is high enough that it turns into a snow plow. So lowering it is not in the cards. I need the ground clearance.

Suspension

I picked up a set of Koni FSDs some time back and never mounted them. With 84,000 miles a change in struts is in order. I also have a rear sway bar from Way Motor works that hasn't been mounted. I'll do both at the same time. My tire installer is also an excellent mechanic shop. I'll be talking with him about doing the work. I figure the handling improvement from the shocks, sway bar, wheels, and tires will be noticeable.

Drive Train

I see a pulley reduction in the not to distant future along with a CAI. A more free flow exhaust would also be part of the program. Colder plugs, new plug wires and a few other upgrades would be part of the program.

That may be it. Maybe an engine tune. But I don't want to create a maintenance headache. I'd be perfectly happy with performance that matches a JCW.

Any thoughts?

Tom
 

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