R50/53 R53 oil circulation problems? Clicking/knocking noises!
R53 oil circulation problems? Clicking/knocking noises!
I've read through these forums for about a year now, but this is my first time posting! And I need help!
I have an R53 ('06 S) and I've had some lifter/valve-type noise for a little while that would disappear once the engine warmed up. The noise had become more persistant, and after an oil change yesterday, the noise has become much worse and has changed.
When I first start the car, there's no noise. After about 30 seconds, the noise comes back. It now sounds like top and bottom engine noise. The oil pressure seems very low, especially at idle. I have the chrono pack, and at idle the oil pressure gauge sits about halfway between zero and the first tick (maybe about 10 PSI?). At higher RPMs when warm, it makes it up to halfway (35 PSI) and when cold it sits at about 50 PSI (but not for long). The noise quiets with the increased RPMs and is the worst at idle.
I also think I've lost power, but I don't know if it's related. She's at 108k miles and I don't have the maintenance records. I bought it used in December 2012. I know she needs a lot of work, but I'm trying to get the urgent things taken care of ASAP!
My guess is the oil pump. Any other suggestions? She needs the usual 100k work-up still.
I can try to get a video of the noise later if you'd like.
Thank you guys!
I have an R53 ('06 S) and I've had some lifter/valve-type noise for a little while that would disappear once the engine warmed up. The noise had become more persistant, and after an oil change yesterday, the noise has become much worse and has changed.
When I first start the car, there's no noise. After about 30 seconds, the noise comes back. It now sounds like top and bottom engine noise. The oil pressure seems very low, especially at idle. I have the chrono pack, and at idle the oil pressure gauge sits about halfway between zero and the first tick (maybe about 10 PSI?). At higher RPMs when warm, it makes it up to halfway (35 PSI) and when cold it sits at about 50 PSI (but not for long). The noise quiets with the increased RPMs and is the worst at idle.
I also think I've lost power, but I don't know if it's related. She's at 108k miles and I don't have the maintenance records. I bought it used in December 2012. I know she needs a lot of work, but I'm trying to get the urgent things taken care of ASAP!
My guess is the oil pump. Any other suggestions? She needs the usual 100k work-up still.
I can try to get a video of the noise later if you'd like.
Thank you guys!
First off....you are using synthetic oil right...5w-30 or 5w-40...even a 0w40/0w30 is OK....
Next...wonder if the timing belt tensioner is sticky...an EASY external swap...if it goes too long...damage occurs and the plastic guides are shredded...and can foul the oil pickup and or cause an oil pump issue....
Next...wonder if the timing belt tensioner is sticky...an EASY external swap...if it goes too long...damage occurs and the plastic guides are shredded...and can foul the oil pickup and or cause an oil pump issue....
First off....you are using synthetic oil right...5w-30 or 5w-40...even a 0w40/0w30 is OK....
Next...wonder if the timing belt tensioner is sticky...an EASY external swap...if it goes too long...damage occurs and the plastic guides are shredded...and can foul the oil pickup and or cause an oil pump issue....
Next...wonder if the timing belt tensioner is sticky...an EASY external swap...if it goes too long...damage occurs and the plastic guides are shredded...and can foul the oil pickup and or cause an oil pump issue....
Last edited by cdietman; Mar 26, 2014 at 10:02 AM.
Also, I've had a very high-pitched whining noise with RPM. I thought that might be the serpentine belt tensioner... Could it be the timing chain? Could it all be related or just one more thing on the long list of repairs she needs?
Your oil pressure sounds normal to me.
When warm 10 psi at 1000 rpm, -that's very good
Maybe you see 35 psi at 3500 rpm, or 45 psi at 4500
Also good, but it probably won't go higher than that.
This 10 psi per 1000 rpm (at operating temp) is an indicator that you have the correct weight oil.
Your psi will be higher when it's cold, or if you choose a thicker oil; but don't worry about it. More psi does not necessarily mean more lubricating. I bet your oil temp runs right around 210 (the middle mark on chrono). Only reason you would want thicker oil is if you were on a hot race track all day and having oil temps that were much higher; so that you could maintain the 10 psi per 1000 rpm at say a 240F oil temp.
When warm 10 psi at 1000 rpm, -that's very good
Maybe you see 35 psi at 3500 rpm, or 45 psi at 4500
Also good, but it probably won't go higher than that.
This 10 psi per 1000 rpm (at operating temp) is an indicator that you have the correct weight oil.
Your psi will be higher when it's cold, or if you choose a thicker oil; but don't worry about it. More psi does not necessarily mean more lubricating. I bet your oil temp runs right around 210 (the middle mark on chrono). Only reason you would want thicker oil is if you were on a hot race track all day and having oil temps that were much higher; so that you could maintain the 10 psi per 1000 rpm at say a 240F oil temp.
Your oil pressure sounds normal to me.
When warm 10 psi at 1000 rpm, -that's very good
Maybe you see 35 psi at 3500 rpm, or 45 psi at 4500
Also good, but it probably won't go higher than that.
This 10 psi per 1000 rpm (at operating temp) is an indicator that you have the correct weight oil.
Your psi will be higher when it's cold, or if you choose a thicker oil; but don't worry about it. More psi does not necessarily mean more lubricating. I bet your oil temp runs right around 210 (the middle mark on chrono). Only reason you would want thicker oil is if you were on a hot race track all day and having oil temps that were much higher; so that you could maintain the 10 psi per 1000 rpm at say a 240F oil temp.
When warm 10 psi at 1000 rpm, -that's very good
Maybe you see 35 psi at 3500 rpm, or 45 psi at 4500
Also good, but it probably won't go higher than that.
This 10 psi per 1000 rpm (at operating temp) is an indicator that you have the correct weight oil.
Your psi will be higher when it's cold, or if you choose a thicker oil; but don't worry about it. More psi does not necessarily mean more lubricating. I bet your oil temp runs right around 210 (the middle mark on chrono). Only reason you would want thicker oil is if you were on a hot race track all day and having oil temps that were much higher; so that you could maintain the 10 psi per 1000 rpm at say a 240F oil temp.
I have updates!!
Per the advice of another gearhead, I threw in a bottle of Slick 50 last night, the one with the detergents. No improvement last night, no improvement first thing this morning, but when I went BACK to my car this morning and drove it for another 3 miles (I'm driving as little as possible!!), the noise was nearly gone!! Even at idle! My guess - the oil pump pickup screen was completely clogged and nasty, and the detergents broke it up just enough to get some oil through. Oil pressure is a tiny bit higher too.
Without listening to it, I was told by a mechanic-friend I'm looking at a new motor. That's mostly if there is bottom-engine damage, but honestly I'm not completely sure if that's the case.
I'm not up for a motor swap right now, financially. I plan to replace the oil pump and the timing chain tensioner ASAP, and go from there. I wouldn't be against a top-end rebuild, but anything more is less likely.
Any thoughts?
Thank you for all your help!! I love my MINI but I'm afraid she wasn't taken care of in the 60k miles before I came along.
I can't find anything on replacing the oil pump. I'm just looking for a technical article to make sure it's nothing out of the ordinary. Any idea if the front cover has to come off?
Trending Topics
It was a last resort as I couldn't drive it straight to a shop. 108k miles. Planning on doing the chain tensioner with the oil pump. Trying to get it done within the next week or so; I'm taking some time off work anyways so she won't be moving very much.
Do the simple external, cheap fix first....
Swap out the timing chain tensioner.....
Oil pump seems to be fine from the numbers you reported....
Then run it...see how it works....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kimolaoha
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
70
Jul 5, 2023 01:04 PM
ECSTuning
Vendor Announcements
0
Aug 12, 2015 01:24 PM
PelicanParts.com
Vendor Announcements
0
Aug 4, 2015 02:45 PM



