R50/53 Clutch Rattle
Clutch Rattle
I'm having an issue with my clutch recently.
It only happens when the car is idling but seems to disappear when the RPM's are raised.
when I let off the clutch moderately fast to quickly, a rattle develops.
Put the clutch pedal back down and let off slowly and it doesn't rattle.
sometimes it doesn't rattle no matter how fast I take my foot off, and sometimes it develops no matter how slowly I let off.
Any suggestions
Cheers,
Rich
It only happens when the car is idling but seems to disappear when the RPM's are raised.
when I let off the clutch moderately fast to quickly, a rattle develops.
Put the clutch pedal back down and let off slowly and it doesn't rattle.
sometimes it doesn't rattle no matter how fast I take my foot off, and sometimes it develops no matter how slowly I let off.
Any suggestions
Cheers,
Rich
i have the same thing, i was told its neutral chatter, i thought it was my TO bearing, but with clutch modulation it couldnt have been the TO bearing
this is my car, still does it and its a year later, i have no slippage, and feels very planted
this is my car, still does it and its a year later, i have no slippage, and feels very planted
Thats the exact noise I`m getting.
My first thought was indeed TO bearing but as you say, no loss in clutch performance and if it was loose or misbalanced, it would get worse as RPM rose, not go away
My first thought was indeed TO bearing but as you say, no loss in clutch performance and if it was loose or misbalanced, it would get worse as RPM rose, not go away
That's the TO bearing, it will go for a long time without slippage, mine went all the way to the end without ANY slippage, the noise got worse as the TOB was disintegrating until it died, changed it and the clutch was actually ok and had some life in it but changed it anyways, the TOB was in tiny pieces.
i have the same thing, i was told its neutral chatter, i thought it was my TO bearing, but with clutch modulation it couldnt have been the TO bearing Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r526me8tUxM this is my car, still does it and its a year later, i have no slippage, and feels very planted
It takes a while lol. Is not difficult with the right tools it is time consuming, a shop will charge you around 10 to 12 hours of labor or a flat fee like Helix in PA I think that he charges around 850.00 plus parts, the dealer around 2600.00 with parts ( no Flywheel).
If you do it yourself take your time and label everything plus photo document connections etc. you'll save a lot of money by DIY plus you could take care of other things along the way.
To give you an idea check this link out. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
If you do it yourself take your time and label everything plus photo document connections etc. you'll save a lot of money by DIY plus you could take care of other things along the way.
To give you an idea check this link out. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
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Yep that's what they do, if it gets louder and you are feeling some pulsation on the pedal I would change it before it leaves you stranded , eventually it will fail but it doesn't mean that it will be tomorrow, something to keep an eye on, mind you that in some cases the TOB will destroy itself and can damage the bell housing in some cases seen in this forum.
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