R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Underbody Rust

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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 01:05 AM
  #1  
Skwerl's Avatar
Skwerl
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1st Gear
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Underbody Rust

I just bought an R53, and I love it, I am so in love, and I knew I would be. I am quite handy around a shop and what not, but haven't been much into cars my whole life. My exhaust system has some near extreme decent rust spots, and my support bars underneath have some decent rust. My back right caliper is a good bit rusty, along with it's rotor. My other 3 aren't that bad, and there is no squeaking.

My passenger door hinge grip (keeps the door in set open position) is a good bit beat up, but hte driver one isn't half bad. The windows squeek some.

What would you recommend to get the most out of this damage, for on the cheap. (I do all the labor)

Just remove each rusted piece, scrub the SHIZ out of it, and then coat?

What coat do you recommend?

All help is appreciated.

My biggest concern is the exhaust having a "blow out" some time in the future, which i would just replace. The frame is sound, and the tire supports are good to go. I'm not concerned the frame or body would break, that is why i bought it.

-Skwerl
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 04:06 AM
  #2  
04_Indi_Mini_S's Avatar
04_Indi_Mini_S
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 137
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From: VA
I am doing some rust reforming on my truck and decided to try POR-15. I have never used the stuff, but found mostly good reviews on it. You might try that for some parts. Maybe someone else that reads this can chime in on their POR-15 experiences.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 04:57 AM
  #3  
Capt_bj's Avatar
Capt_bj
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Melbourne, FL
big fan of POR-15

have used it a lot on my 79

have never had to re do any place I've applied it.

but be careful and don't get it anyplace you don't want it ... including your hands. Once dry the only way it comes off is by grinding! On your hands, it is there until the skin falls off naturally! Altho I do see the latest catalog from POR now lists a remover . . .

Also suggest you use the smallest can possible because once the can is opened the paint begins to dry out and storage of an opened can is a problem. I've had some success with transferring left overs to a jar with a good metal lid them keeping in the 'fridge.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 07:22 AM
  #4  
ZippyNH's Avatar
ZippyNH
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From: Southern NH
The exhaust is good till it fails....
The pipes are stainless... They can look pretty ugly for a long time but be OK...the resonator on the exhaust (first box) tends to rust out...but many folks delete it..aka one ball...to save weight and gain a bit of sound...
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 12:14 PM
  #5  
Skwerl's Avatar
Skwerl
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Originally Posted by ZippyNH
The exhaust is good till it fails....
The pipes are stainless... They can look pretty ugly for a long time but be OK...the resonator on the exhaust (first box) tends to rust out...but many folks delete it..aka one ball...to save weight and gain a bit of sound...
What do you mean delete it? I believe this is the box I have rusting out bad.

Also it sounds like por15 is a bad idea on the springs? They seem good but I'm curious if the spring supports can go out on me?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 01:17 PM
  #6  
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ZippyNH
6th Gear
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From: Southern NH


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-ball-mod.html
A fast and easy search on the site yielded these....
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #7  
Skwerl's Avatar
Skwerl
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I didn't know what you meant by the word delete. Thanks a ton if it blows out that will be my fix
 
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