So I spent about two hours trying to get my stock sc pulley off using a removal tool ( the half moon one that sits in the threads with a bolt through the middle). Well, it is on so tight that I actually chipped the puller and there are some threads on the pulley that are bent and chipped. It is not coming off that way, I even sprayed PB Blaster on the ends of the pulley and I'll try again in the morning.

Anyway in case it doesn't work...has anyone successfully cut the pulley off using a dremel or something? I don't know what else to do.

Help?

 

I'd try carefully heating the pulley with a hand held propane torch- allow it to cool then try again with the puller. The OEM pulley is press fit from the factory; heating the pulley should expand the metal allowing its grip to loosen.

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The problem with heating it is that the metal shaft will expand too so the grip really won't loosen much at all (aside from loosening any rust that might have formed on the mating surfaces). Furthermore, you're risking damage to the shaft seal.
There are different styled removal tools out there. One of them comes with a jig that allows you to drill a few holes through the pulley and a second piece that splits it in half.
Alternatively, the Dremel trick will probably work too. Try cutting two slits in the pulley 180 degrees apart from each other. Go as deep as you can without scoring the shaft. You should be able to pull it off with the tool you have or split the pulley in two with a cold chisel.

 

Don't use heat, you can damage the seals. I have cut a few off because of ones like yours, just be careful not to nick the shaft when you are doing it.

 

It just takes some time & patience to cut off, but it can be done better to take all day than to damage the shaft, do as mentioned above, 2 cuts, 180* from each other, sometimes one will work but remember, with one you're applying a lot of force to only one side of the shaft to try & split the pulley, just keep some extra cutting discs on hand. If you had access to air, an Air Body Saw* is actually the quickest & most acurate way to minimize the risk of damaging the shaft.

*


Good Luck.

(this is actually a common problem with JCW pulley removal, a lot of vendors that do this will not quote a definate price on JCW pulley swaps just because of the unknown extra time involved with the removal)

 

Thanks a lot everyone for the ideas and help, its much appreciated! I didn't think heat would work either since the shaft would expand as well, good to hear it confirmed by others.

Thanks!

 

I think on some of the SC pulley pullers you have to put a bolt in the center of the pulley (where the plastic plug was) to give the puller bolt has something to push on. I used a lot of anti sieze on the puller bolt and any surface that had friction. Maybe I just got lucky but with some work the pulley came off without issue. The puller was from Mini Mania.

 

The one I have has a much bigger bolt through it so I couldn't use a smaller bolt that will thread in the shaft.

BTW to the guys who said to cut it. I'm guessing its no big deal if I lightly score the shaft? Its going to be really tough not to at least nick it while cutting through. The new pulley is going to sit over too of it anyway. I figure if I do score it I can smooth any nicks so the new pulley will slide on. Thoughts?

 

I dont think a small inperfection on the shaft is a big problem. Getting the shaft out of balance would be the bigest problem it spins at a very high speed. The collar was very tight to get on, a small knick could hinder the install

 

Yeah I think I'm most worried about getting the shaft out of balance if I have to hammer on the pulley to split it. I'll just be extra careful and hope for the best. Thanks for the help.

 

How about cutting until you are very close to the shaft then using a cold chisel/big flathead screwdriver to break what's remaining?

 

That's the reason for cutting on both sides, creates space for movement when you're trying to split it.
Just remember to try & split from the front, the remaining metal will try and tear easier and you won't be putting as much pressure on the shaft.

 

I keep reading about this bolt but no one says the thread type or bolt length!

 

It has to do with the head of the bolt. It gives the puller bolt something to push on instead of going in the center of the shaft. I think some pullers have a smaller center bolt that can screw in all the way until it bottoms out in the shaft. the bolt is put there so it pushes on the head of the bolt.

 

You can use the ground bolt that was on the passenger side mount by the tensioner. The bolt that holds the ground wire which is screwed upside down will screw in the pulley once the plastic clip is removed. I put a bunch on anti-seize on the top on that bolt since the puller was going to be turning on it and a bunch on the puller threads. It did take some force but it came out. Good luck OP!

 

So I cut the pulley and chiseled it off but in the process I dinged the seal and it is now crooked. I fear that it will leak under load. Anyone know of a write up for changing it out? Does the snout need to come off? Does the seal consist of the rubber o ring and the metal piece around it?

Thanks for the help all!

 

Just get a rebuilt SC....
If chiseling it hurt the seal...hate to see what it did to the bearings and gears...
Good luck.

 

I don't have money to just throw down on a rebuild. I barely dinged the seal its not like I beat the crap out of it. If the gears are that fragile we all have big problems lol.

 

Oh man, that sucks! Sorry to hear about that.

I suppose you could just put it back together, and hope it doesn't leak, but not sure how bad it is, gotta picture? Maybe if you just nicked it on the outside, it might be okay if it's not pierced all the way through.... Hard to know from where I sit.

I think it's doubtful to find much on repairing it. Heck even MINI doesn't even carry the oil for the SC, they just wait for it to fail, and replace the whole thing.

ECStuning doesn't have that shaft seal anywhere I could find. This is the most complete thing for SC gaskets, seals, and it's all to seal the air path.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2005-C...ger/ES2588236/

This is a great write up on changing the SC oil, and this guy is pretty thorough, I would think if replacing the seal were common he would have done it. I think you'll find it to be a good read anyway
http://www.billswebspace.com/SuperchargerDoc_v4.pdf

You might try searching instead of MINI Cooper, search for Eaton M45 Supercharger. People do infact have some internal parts and seals for them, I saw some Snouts, Shaft Repair kit with seals etc. Honestly, I don't know enough about it to hardly know the official name of the particular seal your looking for, -but maybe you could telephone an Eaton Parts vendor to get it figured out. ???

Best of luck.

 

I agree with AlexQS. If you run it make sure to keep and very close watch to see if it is leaking. The SC doesn't have that much oil (a few ounces) if it is leaking you are going to have to take the SC off anyway to fix the seal. If it dosen't leak concider your self lucky.

 

Thanks for the reply. I haven't been able to find any info on changing it nor what the part is actually called. I am half tempted to put it back on and see if it leaks but if I can find some answers on changing the seal out I rather go that route. It looks like the rubber part of the seal is in tact but who knows how it will fair under load.

I think I will take your advice and call some rebuild shops or vendors and ask if it can be replaced. I'm hoping since its a seal and presumably a wear item of sorts it should be replaceable.

I am currently at the airport waiting for another flight since mine was canceled after waiting 6 hours (what a day). I think I have a pic of it on my phone so I'll try to get it posted. In the meantime if anyone has any info on the seal please post!

Thanks

 

I just removed my pulley with a Mini Madness puller. This one seems to be different than the others on the market since it has an extention that goes inside the threaded hole. Took me all of 5 minutes to wrench it off.

 

Congrats? Haha, doesn't help my current situation though.

 

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...nout-Seal.aspx

So I did a search for Eaton M45 shaft seal and came up with this part. Looks like the metal piece with the center o ring that is on our SC's. Any thoughts? Also says there are no special tools required to install, I wonder if it pulls out from the front and the new one presses in?

 

So how does the story end? Did you replace the part or not? How many miles have you driven since the reinstallation of the M45? Pictures?