Geez, went to change the oil in my '05 S today. Bought it last year in February and have since only put <2K miles on her. The selling dealership had already completed a go over of the car such as water pump, belts, clutch, hoses and of course an oil change.
So before leaving this week for the annual BRPT, I thought I would change the oil and filter. I bought a new drain plug and oil filter removal socket from Outmotoring.
Easy enough, right? Wrong. Who ever tightened the drain plug also rounded it some. My result: utter failure to get the darn thing loosened. Ended up trying a pipe wrench but it won't budge. And yes, I was careful.
Do these drain plugs glue themselves to the oil pan from heat?

I guess my only recourse is a heavy duty pair of vice grips?

 

Maybe a top side oil changer would be an easier solution?

 

Yep, thought about that avenue but I would rather have it 100% right than not. Good suggestion though.

 

Definitely need to get it fixed long term.

 

sounds like it was impact-wrenched. Lame.

 

Last oil change I had, it took 2 dudes under the car in the oil bay with a LONG pipe for leverage to get the oil canister loose.

 

Might be a long shot but have you tried vice grips with locks. I've found that clamping them onto rounded bolts and hitting it with a hammer works quite well.

 

last resort... weld a non rounded nut to it and wrench that off. last resort

 

Try to tighten it a tad first, then loosen again.

 

The metals can actually chemically weld to each other by ion exchange which is why you need to find the happy medium of loose and tight. You will just have to keep working at it and have a time sert ready to go just in case it's stripped out.

 

I've had a few shops change the oil as a matter of convenience when in the shop. The last one gave me a new drain plug and cranked it down so hard I stripped it getting it out.

According to Mr. Bentley it only calls for 18 ft lbs. I'm not sure why everyone cranks the hell out of these.

 

had the same problem tried everything to undo it no chance, my solution was to get a piece of flat steel about 1" wide and 1ft long drill a 15mm hole near one end, place the hole over the striped bolt head and weld it to it
it was still tight to turn but it undid it, I had to cut the bar off before I could completely remove the bolt

 

IMO, pipe wrench with a cheater bar is your best bet. Lots of leverage, gets tighter the harder you pull, and you don't care about wrecking the plug anyway.
Good luck!
Mine had only been changed at the dealer. One time it was finger tight (and dripping), the next time I changed it, the pan was stripped (oil temp plug, so only three threads ) - replaced it with a generic full depth plug.

 

I tried that old trick on my plug with a big pipe wrench it gripped great but it just broke lumps of the plug and still didn't move it

 

Heat.....Fist time oil change same issue.

Took the MINI back to the UCD with new drain plug/oil filter in hand, it went up on lift and applied heat to the plug. Came right off. They ended up completing the oil change for me at that point.

Would seem they can almost fuse themselves on when over tightened.

 

I don't suppose you read any of the MANY threads on this issue? Written up many times since about 2003 . . . but I guess not expecting a problem you didn't search on 'oil change' or any related topics. Example:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rain-plug.html

Then you would have known that the built on plastic gasket is highly suspect as the problem .. bad design.

And that the recommended metric size for the drain bung is actually not the right size and contributes to your problem - it is a perfect 1/2 inch bolt size.


an outside extractor is a recourse once you mess up the head

once again you discover that a 1/2 fits best . . .

And if you put on a Fumoto in place of the problem bung you'll NEVER have to worry about a repeat.

 

Never heard of these before.... AWESOME tip Capt_bj!!!

 

I have that Fumoto valve and I just want to add: You want the engine to be hot before doing the oil change... which isn't the best to remove the filter. Why you may ask? The hole in the valve is not that big and if the engine/oil is cold, it will take forever to drain.

 

The Mini I just bought had one of these and although when I first saw it, I dismissed it as gimmicky but after 2 oil changes, me likey alot.

 

im assuming this is why most mini oil changing kits come with a new plug bolt

 

on all of the cars I've had that use a crush washer on the bung - and I believe the first of those was my 83 rabbit convert' - the washer was a use once item. My current Honda's and KIA use alum' ones that cost a few cents each. Crush washers are sometimes a fiber material too, scanning the selection at my local parts store when I decided using one might stop a drip on my 79 - which it did.

The GEN1 MINI service manual actually calls for a new plug each time since the crush washer - plastic - is integral to the bung

 

I've had to remove a number of these over the years on our MINI shop days, the worst one I had to weld a big nut to the remains, then it came right out - whether from the heat of the weld or just the extra leverage I'm not sure.....if you have access to a mig welder and a big ol nut lying about the shop, this is probably the quickest and easiest way to get it out.

I use a 1/2" 6-point socket when I remove them, I've never had a problem getting one out that way, or rounded one off.

 

I had the same problem but with the oil filter cap. I had a breaker bar and pipe sticking up past the hood to get it to crack it loose. I was prepared to replace the entire filter mount as the bolts holding it on shear off easily. It cracked loose after making the entire engine twist like it was being power braked. nothing broke but after a few oil changes and torquing the cap on i have to believe it was torqued down to about 150 or better. Some folks shouldnt touch cars, sorry your having the same type of issues.

 

Read the manual, buy a torque wrench.........

 

You misunderstand my post i am an ex mechanic i have the tools i bought the car like that, it must have been at 150 or better now it comes right off at proper spec.