So I was driving with a friend on i84 and we were moving at about 20 mph through some light traffic. It was about 86 degrees out that evening. I went to accelerate and the car had put itself into limp mode I assume, so I pull over after the heat gauge flew up.
Anyways, even after refilling coolant, I took a look at the belts and pulleys to discover a noise and a slight wobble from the crank pulley. Noise intensifies with higher revs. Also, the SC is not producing any boost. No whine when revved, even though the pulley is still spinning. Took a closer look today and found metal shaving around the Crank pulley I can see where it's been digging into the case...


TLDR: My theory is that the Harmonic balancer broke loose and is creating the wobble on the whole pulley, thus the noise and metal shavings. So is it safe to assume it's just the Crank pulley that caused the car to overheat in the traffic (no water pump, also paired with no coolant) and replacing this will fix supercharger?

I hope it's a quick pulley/belt replacement, but I need a more experienced second opinion without paying the $70 for a tow.

-Thanks guys,
Tab32

 

you need to replace the crank pulley, changing a belt isn't going to do anything. and you wont see any boost if your not moving, the engine needs to see load so you can read boost.

 

Well I was just saying i'd change the belt while I was down there. And there is no sound from the sc with or without load on it.

I dont know how the sc and water pump can stop working if I can actually see the belt moving. Maybe it's just slipping under load?

 

LOL my bad, dont read to good hahaha, yea the belt is most likely slipping too and if the W/P is not turning fast enoguh the car will over heat.

do you have any pics of your crank pulley? it would help to see and diagnose as well.

 

+1, this is most likely not an issue of it not spinning, but as stated, "not spinning fast enough" remember, the more rpm= the more heat=the more circulation needed.

 

ATI or PRW time.

 

How many miles on your car? They tipically go at 60-70K. Mine did exactly what you described. Replaced the crank damper pulley and it runs fine. But if I were to do this again I would have gone with the ATI Super Damper to replace it.

 

My mini has 105k miles on it. I'm going to order a fluid dampener from waymotorworks today. $350 is a bit out of my price range and the fluid pulley will hold up just as well as far as I know.
Plus I can use the money to get expedited shipping.

 

Check this one out http://www.eurosportdesign.com/p-489...FSgS7Aod7jgA_w

Ebay occasionally has them for under $200.00

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mini-Cooper-S-2001-2006-Gen-1-Tritec-1-6L-138mm-SFI-Fluid-Damper-Black-/111085859865?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19dd3bb419&vxp=mtr

 

RMW makes a really good fluid damper. I went with the ATI when I replaced mine. RMW didn't have one at the time yet.

 

Thanks Bram, I was about to spend $300 on it, but $170 sounds a bit better!

 

Rmw is just reselling the fluid damper ...
Both work great ...
I have the ati ...my car idles a bit smoother with the aftermarket damper.

 

good luck. keep us posted

 

Any ill effects from running just a lightened jobbie like the Craven Speed one?

 

Been debate MANY TIMES...
My take...if you plan on keeping the car...get a dampened pulley.

 

Poopy... just bought one...lol

 

Weighted crank dampers serve a purpose, you are asking for trouble and definitely decreasing your engine life by not using one. Ask a trusted reseller like Way at Way Motor Works what he thinks about using a lightened crank pulley. ATI is the route to take but if you cant afford it the fluid damper is another excellent damper.

 

So i'm having a bit of trouble getting the pulley actually off the shaft. I've taken the bolt out and taken tension off the belt, but even with two guys trying to pry it off, it won't go. It wasn't this hard on the 3000 gt...and that's 15 years old.

Does this mean I really do have to get a pulley puller?

 

Yup....it is heat set. It does not use a keyway...
Be sure to follow the directions on the new pulley for install....it usually involves heating the pulley a bit (too much will destroy it ) just before mounting....the metal will shrink ....and it will be on TIGHT. just pushing it on is not ALL THE WAY ON.

 

Some folks have run them for many miles...no issues. Some mechanics even reccomend them as a cheap replacement to the OEM....but hearing folks that have been DEEP INSIDE. A motor tell me they can see wear that the damper Prevents in bearings and seals....

 

Yes you will have to get a puller, any 3 bolt/3 point puller will work with the right bolts, even the free loaner from Autozone, but I can't remember the bolt sizes.

 

Have run them on older VW's with no obvious/ visual ill effects.. BUT!!!!! I am such a noob with the lil shoeboxes.. I'll take everyones word and opinions

 

Check this thread out https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oem-tools.html

 

Picked up a universal puller and some m6 bolts. Hopefully this will be relatively painless... Lol