I did my first oil change last week and it seemed to go overall fine. There were a few concerns that came up during the process:

• The old oil filter I replaced fit more loosely; and basically slipped on/off. The replacement Mann filter was very snug and basically required me to apply strength to fit. When I encountered resistance in trying to install it, I triple-checked that I had the right part. However, the Mann website indicated it was the correct part for my 2004 and years prior/ahead, so I figured it was designed to be tight.
• The O-Ring with my new filter was noticeably looser than the one it replaced. The one it replaced was snug and had to be pried off. This one could basically be "rolled" on and off without any tools. Again, I assumed this was by design. There's no visible slack with the new O-Ring, it just isn't as tight as the old one.
• I replaced the drain plug with a Fumoto. I used a deep socket to get past the "nipple" and to the hexagonal base in order to torque it, but the hex end unfortunately rounded off before the torque wrench clicked. It wasn't on loosely by any means, but not being able to get it to torque spec didn't make me feel confident.

I haven't encountered any glaring problems, or any dash lights indicating low oil or oil pressure.

This morning before I left to work, I checked the oil just out of curiosity. The level was a little more past the halfway point between min and max, which I assume is normal and OK. However, I recall the level being right at the max line (in fact I remember worrying it might be slightly over) when I first did the oil change.

So my question is: if I have a full five quarts of oil, should the oil level be at the MAX point on the dipstick, or more like somewhere in the middle like I observed this morning? More specifically, how do the MIN/MAX points on the dipstick correlate to the volume of oil? Would max represent exactly five quarts, or more?

Besides this discrepancy in measurements, I don't have any other reasons to suspect a leak, like oil in my garage or parking spot, but I want to be sure. This is more of a paranoia check than anything. When one DIYs there's always a creeping doubt something was done wrong, and doing aftermarket stuff like adding the Fumoto just creates another possible point of fault.

 

I don't know much about the Fumoto drain plugs, so I can't be of much help there. I would suggest parking over a piece of cardboard though. That way you can see if there is any sort of drip going on underneath the car for sure. Do the Fumoto plugs come with a new rubber gasket? If not, replace that. I believe the gasket is supposed to be replaced with every oil change as they have a tendency to leak.

As for the oil filter that you installed, was there a plastic tube in the middle of the filter? If so, you should be good to go. Some of the aftermarket filters do not have the plastic tube inside the filter, which leaves the filter without proper support and causes it to crush and warp under the pressure inside the housing.

Keep in mind that the oil light in the R53 is an oil pressure light, not an oil level light.

Also, when installing the oil filter, be sure to coat the bottom of the filter with oil. This will allow it to slide over the valves that are seated in the bottom of the oil filter housing without worrying about breaking one of them.

 

The Fumoto plug indeed had a gasket like in this image: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...cL._SY300_.jpg I held on to the existing drain plug just in case, as it actually appeared to be in pretty good condition, although I've read it's not advisable to reuse them.

The inside of the oil filter had a sort of plastic mesh.

Would a slow oil leak activate the pressure light, or does it a require a more sudden loss of pressure? Also this is an R50 but I assumed they both had the same warning light.

 

Eventually a slow leak would leak enough oil that the pressure would drop. But by the time that light comes on its usually too late, or very close to it. You walk a fine line by depending on the oil pressure light to save you from a bad experience.

I would just keep an eye on the oil for a little and see what happens. If you continue to sit in the middle of the dipstick I wouldn't worry. But if you start to see a need to add a decent amount of oil on a regular basis then start checking around for potential leaks. Oil pan would be one spot, as would the oil filter housing.

 

Having done some more Googling, I think my concerns are overblown.

The proper oil level should be in the middle of the min/max lines. I'm a little bit past the middle, probably I used a full five quarts of oil.

The level was at max during my initial reading most likely because I hadn't run the car yet. Based on my research, the level should read high until oil filter fills with oil. In fact, I remember the level being ever-so-slightly above max, which probably explains why it's ever-so-slightly above the midpoint now.

I'll check on it over the next week though just to be sure...

I'd still like to torque my Fumoto valve to 25-29ft-lbs as their website suggests, but I don't know how that can be accomplished with it being too round for a socket... Unless I just replace it, but then I don't see what's stopping me from doing the same thing again. The fact that I was able to round off anything indicates it's on pretty tightly, but I guess I'm just a by-the-book kind of guy.

 

I've heard that some people weld a larger nut on top of the original nut.

 

...what size socket did you use to tighten that fumoto? The correct one?

As much as I like things to be torqued to spec, the German torque spec of good-n-tight works just fine and there's no sense in replacing it now or stripping it farther. Grab the smallest box end or open ended wrench that will fit on it and tighten one last time and don't mess with it.

As for the oil filter. I just replaced my r53's filter with a mann and yeah, they go on tight. I couldn't tell you about the o-ring but I don't remember prying mine off or having that much trouble (or looseness) getting the new one on. The filter I used was a Mann HU 816/2. Hope that helps.

 

And if you're still paranoid about that o-ring, just watch for leaks for a week. I doubt it's an issue.

 

Oh and finally, yes you're being a little paranoid about the oil level. My rule of thumb is to hit the middle of the dipstick; a little over, so what, a little under, no problem. However, if I know there's a leak, I'll err closer to the MAX line.

You sound like me worrying about doing things perfectly. But remember, you're doing work on your car, don't stress over it and make a bigger deal that it is or you'll take all the fun out of it (on the contrary, learn how to do it right the first time like it sounds like you want to do and you'll know how to do it over and over again). Figure out what it is next that you want to learn how to do and prep yourself to be ready for when the time comes (other fluids, brakes, etc). It'll be much less stressful that way :D