R50/53 New shocks or not?
#1
New shocks or not?
Greetings!
I own an '05 Cooper S with 79K miles on her. I've owned Twiggy for a year now and I am wondering if I should replace all the shocks or not.
The ride is firm and comfortable and I don't track or race her. I do notice that on certain bumps or potholes--small ones that you can't miss, the car seems to hit pretty hard.
How do I know if they are really bad or not. The tracks straight as an arrow and no shimmy.
I've been reading on Koni's new FSD shocks. These are not coil over. So what's the real difference between coil over and not?
Thanks all!
I own an '05 Cooper S with 79K miles on her. I've owned Twiggy for a year now and I am wondering if I should replace all the shocks or not.
The ride is firm and comfortable and I don't track or race her. I do notice that on certain bumps or potholes--small ones that you can't miss, the car seems to hit pretty hard.
How do I know if they are really bad or not. The tracks straight as an arrow and no shimmy.
I've been reading on Koni's new FSD shocks. These are not coil over. So what's the real difference between coil over and not?
Thanks all!
#2
to check if they are still good go to each corner and push down on the car multiple times in succession... if the car beings to stiffen up and become more difficult to push back down, shocks are good. but if you can push and the car just bounces up and down and is easy to do this, shocks are bad.
cooper s shocks are stiff to begin with, so hitting dips in the road and pot holes will hurt.
coil overs are just shocks and springs. the springs go over the shock body(coilover). as apposed to a normal every day shock where the spring sits on this giant perch on top of the shock body. also the coilovers are adjustable and depending on how much money you want to spend the will either just lower your car and the more you spend you can get a full race setup with you can adjust height, dampening, rebound, camber, caster, toe, ect... your average good coilover will be around 800-1000 and will do height, dampening, and camber. even some regular shocks can be adjustable too like these koni yellows have dampening abilities.
if you want you can change over to FSD's they will make your mini ride so much better than the stock setup.
coil overs
regular shocks.
cooper s shocks are stiff to begin with, so hitting dips in the road and pot holes will hurt.
coil overs are just shocks and springs. the springs go over the shock body(coilover). as apposed to a normal every day shock where the spring sits on this giant perch on top of the shock body. also the coilovers are adjustable and depending on how much money you want to spend the will either just lower your car and the more you spend you can get a full race setup with you can adjust height, dampening, rebound, camber, caster, toe, ect... your average good coilover will be around 800-1000 and will do height, dampening, and camber. even some regular shocks can be adjustable too like these koni yellows have dampening abilities.
if you want you can change over to FSD's they will make your mini ride so much better than the stock setup.
coil overs
regular shocks.
#3
Coilovers include springs, and can usually lower a car, and usually has multiple adjustment options....until you get pretty $$$$ ones, they tend to ride much firmer than stock, but CAN offer more adjustments to get better race-car like handling...and ride.
Koni fsd's are pretty nice...
I found my stock struts had "firmed" up with age ...no traditional bounciness...just a firmer and firmer ride...no leaks. The fsd's restored my ride to better than new....the rate at which a stut wears depends largely upon roads and loads....so no majic number like some adds would lead you believe .
Koni fsd's are pretty nice...
I found my stock struts had "firmed" up with age ...no traditional bounciness...just a firmer and firmer ride...no leaks. The fsd's restored my ride to better than new....the rate at which a stut wears depends largely upon roads and loads....so no majic number like some adds would lead you believe .
#4
#5
I replaced struts at around 65K with KONI FSD and really like them, also added a 19MM adjustable sway bar at the same time and really like it a whole lot better. Got them on sale from: http://www.motoringwerks.com/c-631-m...uspension.aspx
and they're on sale for the same as what I paid last summer.
and they're on sale for the same as what I paid last summer.
#7
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#8
Nice link
I replaced struts at around 65K with KONI FSD and really like them, also added a 19MM adjustable sway bar at the same time and really like it a whole lot better. Got them on sale from: http://www.motoringwerks.com/c-631-m...uspension.aspx
and they're on sale for the same as what I paid last summer.
and they're on sale for the same as what I paid last summer.
Thanks!
#9
Great info
to check if they are still good go to each corner and push down on the car multiple times in succession... if the car beings to stiffen up and become more difficult to push back down, shocks are good. but if you can push and the car just bounces up and down and is easy to do this, shocks are bad.
cooper s shocks are stiff to begin with, so hitting dips in the road and pot holes will hurt.
coil overs are just shocks and springs. the springs go over the shock body(coilover). as apposed to a normal every day shock where the spring sits on this giant perch on top of the shock body. also the coilovers are adjustable and depending on how much money you want to spend the will either just lower your car and the more you spend you can get a full race setup with you can adjust height, dampening, rebound, camber, caster, toe, ect... your average good coilover will be around 800-1000 and will do height, dampening, and camber. even some regular shocks can be adjustable too like these koni yellows have dampening abilities.
if you want you can change over to FSD's they will make your mini ride so much better than the stock setup.
coil overs
regular shocks.
cooper s shocks are stiff to begin with, so hitting dips in the road and pot holes will hurt.
coil overs are just shocks and springs. the springs go over the shock body(coilover). as apposed to a normal every day shock where the spring sits on this giant perch on top of the shock body. also the coilovers are adjustable and depending on how much money you want to spend the will either just lower your car and the more you spend you can get a full race setup with you can adjust height, dampening, rebound, camber, caster, toe, ect... your average good coilover will be around 800-1000 and will do height, dampening, and camber. even some regular shocks can be adjustable too like these koni yellows have dampening abilities.
if you want you can change over to FSD's they will make your mini ride so much better than the stock setup.
coil overs
regular shocks.
#13
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Way Motor Works has the best price when I purchased last week. Shipping and transaction was prompt and great deal.
Had them installed at Helix - www.helix13.com
#14
We don't race either. The sway bar adds a huge amount of stability over stock and makes taking the twisties even more fun.
#15
Koni fsd's for ride quailty...some track junkies don't like them cause they are progressive....but great on the street....
And a bigger rear swaybar to make the turns more fun!!
bet those back roads are a blast in WV!! I spent a few years around the salem/clarksburg/bridgeport area years ago....some of those lightly traveled back roads are truely gems!!
And a bigger rear swaybar to make the turns more fun!!
bet those back roads are a blast in WV!! I spent a few years around the salem/clarksburg/bridgeport area years ago....some of those lightly traveled back roads are truely gems!!
#16
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Koni fsd's for ride quailty...some track junkies don't like them cause they are progressive....but great on the street....
And a bigger rear swaybar to make the turns more fun!!
bet those back roads are a blast in WV!! I spent a few years around the salem/clarksburg/bridgeport area years ago....some of those lightly traveled back roads are truely gems!!
And a bigger rear swaybar to make the turns more fun!!
bet those back roads are a blast in WV!! I spent a few years around the salem/clarksburg/bridgeport area years ago....some of those lightly traveled back roads are truely gems!!
What do you think about adding the rear sway bar on the Clubman?
#17
#18
On gen1 cars, we GENERALLY use a bigger bar to get the same effect than gen2...
That having been said, i went with a mildly bigger swaybar to prevent slick road surprises...it stll made turns, ramps, etc nicer...not "wow..amazing" like some folks say with a hugebar...but i kept my cars manners pretty well intact.....no snap oversteer if i let off the fuel in a tight turn for a car/cop on a ramp....for me it is about finesse, not wow factor....i did this knowing i DO drive in nasty weather,snow tires and all....for a weekend car, a huge swaybar can be fun....but be careful about letting others barrow your car...if you are not ready for the handling change..can be a nasty surprise.
Imo, bang for the buck, the swaybar is the way to go....at one point i remember reading us cars got a smaller swaybar than euro speced cars from mini (years ago), cause it made the car handle like we expected...thank years of asian imports for training us consumers to EXPECT understeer i guess....
#19
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Never driven a clubman, but if you find it understeer a bit too much, it is a great help.
On gen1 cars, we GENERALLY use a bigger bar to get the same effect than gen2...
That having been said, i went with a mildly bigger swaybar to prevent slick road surprises...it stll made turns, ramps, etc nicer...not "wow..amazing" like some folks say with a hugebar...but i kept my cars manners pretty well intact.....no snap oversteer if i let off the fuel in a tight turn for a car/cop on a ramp....for me it is about finesse, not wow factor....i did this knowing i DO drive in nasty weather,snow tires and all....for a weekend car, a huge swaybar can be fun....but be careful about letting others barrow your car...if you are not ready for the handling change..can be a nasty surprise.
Imo, bang for the buck, the swaybar is the way to go....at one point i remember reading us cars got a smaller swaybar than euro speced cars from mini (years ago), cause it made the car handle like we expected...thank years of asian imports for training us consumers to EXPECT understeer i guess....
On gen1 cars, we GENERALLY use a bigger bar to get the same effect than gen2...
That having been said, i went with a mildly bigger swaybar to prevent slick road surprises...it stll made turns, ramps, etc nicer...not "wow..amazing" like some folks say with a hugebar...but i kept my cars manners pretty well intact.....no snap oversteer if i let off the fuel in a tight turn for a car/cop on a ramp....for me it is about finesse, not wow factor....i did this knowing i DO drive in nasty weather,snow tires and all....for a weekend car, a huge swaybar can be fun....but be careful about letting others barrow your car...if you are not ready for the handling change..can be a nasty surprise.
Imo, bang for the buck, the swaybar is the way to go....at one point i remember reading us cars got a smaller swaybar than euro speced cars from mini (years ago), cause it made the car handle like we expected...thank years of asian imports for training us consumers to EXPECT understeer i guess....
#20
#21
heh. im at 92k, and often wondered if my struts were "gone".
ill ask mini of orlando to see what they "think" when i go for the next oil change.
but, it sounds like, they are indeed toast.
any ideas on how much the dealer charges to install a new set of coil overs?
ill ask mini of orlando to see what they "think" when i go for the next oil change.
but, it sounds like, they are indeed toast.
any ideas on how much the dealer charges to install a new set of coil overs?
#22
Well, mini of Orlando has always been really good to me. They have never forced parts or work or BS'd me in any way, so I'd trust them to give me an honest opinion about work needing to be done and costs. I also like having them do my work, bc if something craps up, they'll fix it no questions asked, and they are the mini experts! Great bunch a guys down there
#23
I replaced all of my stock shocks at around 80K miles with FSD's....and it was a huge night and day difference. The ride is SO much better....
#24
Couldn't agree more that struts make a huge diff in ride
I like others decided to take mine out because I had torn strut tower mounts - both of them.
First thing I will say about that -- while they were torn on top -- the tear only went down about 1/8" -- so my visions of the strut mount failing and having the strut drive straight through the hood while the car hit the pavement -- not sure if it would be that dramatic.
Second -- if your car grew up on the west coast like mine -- you might have a shot at getting the pinch bolt out without a drill or any kind of heat. Luckily we hit mine with PB blaster let it soak in while I changed my transmission fluid and then went to it -- they came out with steady even pressure without issue.
Passenger side came out clean -- no corrosion present, the drivers side like everyone has noted had some corrosion but also came out clean -- I had purchaed new pinch bolts from MINI $6 each, and re-installed them with a thin coating of anti-seize.
I went cheap -- and only got the two front struts replaced with KYB GR-2s...I wanted a comfortable ride, no firmness (live in NYC) and no height adjustment -- the car is staying stock height.
Comfort level in the car is dramatically improved -- even though I went from 16" rim and tires to 17" rims and 205 45 R 17s
I know I need to do the rear struts -- which I will in time but thus far I am super pleased with the new setup -- and the relative ease of installation...including fiddling around a little it took a hair over 2.5 hours.
One thing to note on the use of a spring compressor --make sure you compress it evenly so that the spring stays "flat" -- you don't want it getting pulled to one side like I had.. it makes putting the strut back together a huge pain.
Good luck.
First thing I will say about that -- while they were torn on top -- the tear only went down about 1/8" -- so my visions of the strut mount failing and having the strut drive straight through the hood while the car hit the pavement -- not sure if it would be that dramatic.
Second -- if your car grew up on the west coast like mine -- you might have a shot at getting the pinch bolt out without a drill or any kind of heat. Luckily we hit mine with PB blaster let it soak in while I changed my transmission fluid and then went to it -- they came out with steady even pressure without issue.
Passenger side came out clean -- no corrosion present, the drivers side like everyone has noted had some corrosion but also came out clean -- I had purchaed new pinch bolts from MINI $6 each, and re-installed them with a thin coating of anti-seize.
I went cheap -- and only got the two front struts replaced with KYB GR-2s...I wanted a comfortable ride, no firmness (live in NYC) and no height adjustment -- the car is staying stock height.
Comfort level in the car is dramatically improved -- even though I went from 16" rim and tires to 17" rims and 205 45 R 17s
I know I need to do the rear struts -- which I will in time but thus far I am super pleased with the new setup -- and the relative ease of installation...including fiddling around a little it took a hair over 2.5 hours.
One thing to note on the use of a spring compressor --make sure you compress it evenly so that the spring stays "flat" -- you don't want it getting pulled to one side like I had.. it makes putting the strut back together a huge pain.
Good luck.
#25
Dealer vs local
Thanks.