I have recently had some random squeels when the car is cold and decided to do some investigation. It turns out my serpentine belt is stating to show some wear. I have looked into changing it out which doesn't look too difficult except for the 'special tool' required to detension the belt tensioner. My questions is: is there anyway around buying the $102 tool to do this job? Thanks for any insight.

 

A socket used as a fulcrom and a prybar will work if you are careful....if you have a second set of hands. I bought the tool...
First time it will cost as much as taking it someplace, but only about $25 for beltchanges after that.

 

You can buy the tool on Ebay for 35-40 bucks also. You can also look into any Mini Cooper Clubs near you where a member may just loan you one.

 

I tried it without the tool when I was putting on my reduction pulley...my 260 lb friend couldnt get it to budge. Got the tool...worked like a charm...just buy the tool.

 

Where are you located? Maybe you can borrow one. If you are in the DC area, I have one.

 

Im in ohio if near there...you can use mine as long as you dont keep it but i think its a sound investment. You'll probably have to change the belt again at some point and if you have the tool you'll be ready.

 

I'm in Northern New Jersey. I have the tool. You can change the belt in my driveway.

Rich

 

Make your own tool. There is a post on here somewhere showing the dimensions.

 

I used a big wood clamp from home depot plus an Allen key in the tensioner. Returned the clamp afterward, cost $0.

 

it is pretty easy to put a socket on the piviot point (bolt) that the OEM tools use as its pivot point...then use a long pry-bar (using the socket as a fulcrum for your lever!!]....heck first time I did it, my WIFE did that part while I set the Allen key to lock it in the retracted position...not perfect, but it works.
The tool does let you do it solo!!

 

Pry bar, 9/16ths socket (6pt) on the upper bolt, and a 1 x 1/4" bolt in the lower hole of the tensioner worked for me the first time. Had to do a few more times (helped out a friend) and it got easier. Then I bought a used tool. Not necessary, but nice.

 

Thanks for all the input. I bought one of the ebay versions of the tool($35). Any tips for doing the job? Time?

 

I used a socket on the fulcrum point held in place by a wedged in piece of wood between it and the inside body structure, a 2-3 inch bolt that was small enough to go in one of the holes in the tensioner, and my 2' breaker bar with a 3' pipe on the end of it. Only trouble was that I rubbed a little of the paint off with the wood wedge, but It was easy and didn't cost me anything because I already had everything.

 

It was much easier for me to disconnect the upper and lower motor mounts (but not tranny mount) and put a jack under the oil pan for routing to the lower pulleys then dropped it back down for the upper pulleys. Just look at a diagram of how to route beforehand. Its not a hard job at all.

 

WOW...you do things the hard way...
Just compress the spring on the tennsioner...hold it in place with a allen wrench using the hole (or a awl, oe small screwdriver..the hole is there for a reason]/
Next, jack up car, remove the passenger side wheel liner..just a couple plastic pop screws...and you have access to all the pulies...
can even do a engine crank damper change, no engine jacking needed.
route the new belt, slowly release tension onto the belt, reassemble....

General rule is with a 15% reduction and aftermarket belt, every 2 years, a 17% yearly...the OEM belts are a bit heavier, but too long and even the JCW ones slip with a reduction pulley.

The entire swap is about a 30 minute job (max)...less with a good jack and the tennsioner tool.

 

I was putting my 15% pulley on at the time so I was already there thumbsup: plus I find working on cars relaxing so I dont mind doing things the hard way

 

I am being told by the MINI dealership "the friction wheel which will need to be replaced to support the slack of the new [serpentine] belt that will be installed." I thought the friction wheel was part of the chain tensioner issue? Or, are these all related...

 

Sounds like they want to replace the tensioner pulley.

 

So I changed the belt which tuned out not to be that hard at all just took a little time and patience. The next time I can see it being a lot quicker.

However, since the new belt has been installed I am getting a belt squeal during hard acceleration. I put the belt on the same way it came off. Could the tensioner be going? Could the belt be out of alignment? Any input is welcome. TIA.

 

What size belt did you use?

 

Uh ohh...Think I'm going to learn a lesson here...the belt I installed is 55 1/4". What size does it need to be for a 15% pulley?

 

Generally I used a NAPA 060535 with a 15% (it is a tight fit) which I believe is a 54.25 outside measurement. Sounds like your belt is too long. Best way to check is to look down at the tensioner and see if you can see the hole that is used to "lock" it open. If you can't, then that belt is too long.

Way and others seem to recommend NAPA 060635. Should be a good fit. If you used stock, then you will get some squeal.

 

Well it looks like I'm gonna get to practice this install again. I think I'm going to change the idler pulley while I'm in there, is this just plug and play procedure?

 

Yep!

http://www.motoring_alliance/library/1st-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-3/idler-pulley-adjusting-pulley-replacement-diy-96/#axzz2AL1Cpk5u

Take the underscore between motoring and alliance to get the link to work. Apparently NAM is pissy towards that site for some odd reason.