My bf has replaced the clutch (good clutch not OEM) in my MINI. Long story, short (and trust me its a long one) he reattached the transmission linkage but, it only goes into first and reverse. I need help because I have SCOURED the internet and I have noticed that there is very little information for MINI repairs. I need to find out how to fix this asap. I would appreciate any information. HELP! I miss driving my MINI.

 

How about ordering the Bentley manual for Mini Cooper.

 

Not a very helpful response.

I would recommend looking at the two shift linkages where they connect to the top of the transmission. These are under your air filter so they may be impossible to see without removing that, or you can access from underneath the car. My bets are that one of them didn't get completely connected.

 

^^ Second that. Very invaluable for self-maintenance people like us.

If I had to take a stab, something is not aligned with the spline (or perhaps not greased appropriately). Might need to bleed the clutch (master/slave) too.

 

Sorry about that... just a quick starting point as I'm a newbie too.

 

This and also make sure nothing is jamming up the linkage like loose wirings.

Might be too obvious but he topped off the transmission fluid right?

 

Yes, he did top it off. I am a professional mechanic but, I had to work and he had the time off. As far as the Bentley manual, I plan on ordering in the future but, I can't afford it right now. Thank you for all of your responses. This has really helped figure it out. I think the forks just slipped out of position.

 

 

As my bf is new to working on MINIs and a "professional at working on old CJ's" (his words), the MINI is a whole new world to him and I am a diesel mechanic more familiar with construction equipment (big things). He was having trouble disconnecting the shifter linkage ball joints on the transmission so, he started to remove the bolts on the top of the tranny that connect it to the weights on the linkage. At that time, he realized he needed a special tool to remove them and he stopped right there. He tightened the bolts but didnt torque them down. Is it possible that when the bolts were loose the shifter forks somehow came out of sync with the internals inside the tranny? If that is what happened how do I fix it?

 

You'd probably have to split the case to realign the shift forks on the snychonizer sleeves.

 

GROAN! Thank you nabeshin. We have already had to drop the engine due to the bolt that is between the exhaust manifold and the starter going to the bell housing. Whoever did the clutch the last time went impact happy and rounded the bolt head. That was just part of the adventure. Please tell me if I'm wrong but, do we have to drop the engine again or is there an easier way? (fingers crossed)

 

Ouch. Would not have thought of that.

 

Assuming the bolts will come off okay this time, you should be able to pull the transmission without pulling the entire motor. You would however have to drop the subframe to do this. See below

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

Thinking about it more, what probably happened was a misalignment of the shift shaft that acts on the shift forks. But you'd still have to split the case to fix it.

I found these images through google.

 

Thanks for the pics. This is glitter girls boyfriend. I will be getting started on this never ending adventure on thursday.Do you have any info for me on what to be looking for when i crack the case and how to and where should the parts be at. Thanks againg from both of us you have been very helpfull

 

I've never had one of ours apart, but I've seen inside several mock-ups at my school, rebuilt a conventional manual and two automatics.

Once it is apart, you should try moving the external shift levers and make sure that each internal fork and synchronizer sleeve moves. If they don't you're going to have to find out why and correct it. It sounds vague, but if you play around with the levers and see how they function, you can figure out how it is supposed to work and then see what slipped out or rotated while the bolts were loose. The shift pattern, the H, should be "feel-out-able" I guess you could say.

Anyway, when it goes back together, use some anaerobic sealer on the machined aluminum surfaces. Make sure they are clean and dry, and free from old sealer. Use a razor blade if you have to, don't let the old sealer shavings fall into the case. Take extreme care not to damage the mating surfaces or it will leak forever. Do not use RTV here.

As far as torque values, I am uncertain. Just get them tight, but don't stretch the bolt or strip the aluminum threads. Most mechanics develop a feel for bolt stretch and can get things tight enough without a torque wrench. Tighten in a diagonal pattern around the case.

Hopefully some of this is useful without being too condescending.