Holding this space to put together my "build" thread, documenting my Mini experience for future reference and hopefully assist others.

**Total mods**

Awaiting install:
Brass brake bushings
3M vinyl American blackjack flag roof decal (ordered from cooper flags.com Dec 14th...)
Plastidip for hood scoop and front chrome
NCS coding for remote window up, seatbelt chime off, and alarm light on


Mods:
Sound system: Pioneer DEH6200 BT Head unit, Rockford Fosgate pbr300x4 amp, MB Quart PVI216 6.5 components, RF PS3 sub in truck box.
Autozone shift ****
Platinum Saber 16x7's, Continental DWS 205/55/16
AFE CAI
Aftermarket tail lights
License plate mounted dual badge holder
Factory driving lights
3M vinyl clear bra
2007+ Euro-style flip up armrest/console
WMW 15% S/C reduction Pulley
NGK cold plugs
Alta tensioner stop
3M American Flag Blackjack dash decal (minimotoringgraphics.com)
Plastidipped gas cap and driving light housings
GoBadges ring mounts and dome badges
Eibach 19mm rear anti-sway bar


Background:

I realized I was paying something like $16 per day just to drive my Tahoe to/from work one day, and that got me thinking about a commuter car. I started thinking about a used 4 cyl Toyota pickup because I frequently have to carry equipment for work. That wasn't really panning out for me. I stopped by a dealership to check their inventory and pulled up in front of a 2007 convertible. I said something negative about it, referring to it's likely attraction to other vehicles of the same kind. While waiting for the salesman, I got in and looked around.

The quirky style and surprisingly spacious seating intrigued me, and we took it for a test drive. I couldn't afford the asking price on this model, and a convertible wouldn't work for me. I went home and researched the Mini on edmunds and autotrader. A couple hours later I went to look at a "justa" listing for 11k. By the time I got there, it was in pre-delivery. :(

Found my mini at another lot on the way home. I was looking for a justa automatic for about 10k, but fell in love with the six-speed S as soon as I got it on the expressway.

Here it is, as soon as I got it home.




First mods were a cheapo air intake, window tint, one-ball exhaust mod, and the Ian Cull auto-up module.


I met Dr.Obnxs and he opened my eyes to the world of upgrades, though it would be quite some time before I could do anything.

I ordered a pioneer deck to match the red/orange interior lights and some MB Quart 6.5 components around Christmas. The sound was still lacking though, so I stuffed a powered sub I had in another car for a temporary oomph.

 

In February we were involved in a little crash. This upset my plans and nearly caused me to stop trying to mod the car. The mini held up great, and likely kept us alive (assuming the same incident played out the same way in the Tahoe). I was unhappy with the body shop's attention to detail, but I got two new tires out of the deal. I considered selling the mini to buy a different one with exactly the features I wanted:
2011 MCS Laser Blue/Black, Automatic MSRP $27,700 (cost too much)




The front end was randomly making noise during cold starts. Convinced I was going to have to take the car to a dealer, I bought an AFE intake off a forum user that had a CARB smog exemption. I painted it flat OD with the intent to have my OEM and ugly white roof painted to match.



After finally getting a video of the offending sound, it was diagnosed here as being a bad starter bearing. (insert thread link) one of the initial suggestions was to check the serpentine belt, so I ordered a pulley, cold plugs and tensioner stop from waymotorworks. I tried to find someone local to help me do the swap, but that never worked out.

I changed out my belt and brake pads around August. The right rear caliper boot was torn, so the piston was stuck. $200 later (new caliper), the brakes are like new.

 

(more to come, just taking these spaces for continuity purposes)

Recently, I picked up new rims and tires from tire rack. Platinum Saber 16x7 with Continental DWS all-seasons. Rims are 1lb heavier, tires are 3lbs lighter, for an overall weight savings of 8 pounds over stock rims and Continental run flats.


I got a vinyl flag decal for my roof for Christmas from CooperFlags. It's been nearly a month and it still hasn't arrived. Numerous emails to the company met with ABSOLUTELY NO RESPONSE. Other users say their orders just arrive one day out of the blue, so we'll see.

I ordered an eibach 19mm rear anti-sway bar, wmw bushings, brass caliper bushings for the front brakes and some motoring badges. Through another forum user, I found a shop to install my pulley ($165).

I picked up a Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp and sub to replace my Wal-mart cheap. This freed up a lot of space in the boot, though I'm not exactly sure how and where to mount the amp. I've been considering in the rear boot wheel well, but I'm not sure it'll get enough air, and I'm not sure how to physically mount it.

 

Took JiMini into the shop for the pulley install. Found a valve cover leak and worn motor mounts. Gave me a rental and kept it overnight.

Got a call a little later, and sent me these pics, showing evidence of a cracked valve cover and "repair" job. Now I have to find a cheap replacement for the next time I decide to have the intercooler removed... :p



Pulley and new motor mount.


With the dash decal installed

 

Update: I did the RSB install today. I gathered all the tools listed in this DIY I found on the net which was helpful, but I also needed a hex/allen wrench and 16mm wrench to loosen and tighten the end link nuts. Jacking the car up is always a pleasure (sarcasm) so I'm still looking for a reasonably safe way to jack up the REAR of the car without using those jack stand points. The kinda reinforced area doesn't extend far enough back, and I was basically jacking up the MIDDLE of the car.

Other than that, getting the bar out and the new one in was easy; the hardest parts were 1) replacing the stock RSB brackets with the WMW zerk-fitting ones (seemed the stock bolts weren't long enough), 2) putting the rubber covers back over the bottoms of the struts, and 3) getting the subframe back up in place.

I was having some serious concerns about being able to get it back together since I could not move it to get even close to lining up. Eventually I jacked up the bottom of the strut and put the top bolts in to relieve some of the pressure/weight and then used a pry bar/breaker bar to line up the INNER subframe bolts and got them started with my impact. Once that happened, I followed suit with the impact and the outer bolts.

Total time, including messing with all that, going to buy a sandwich, clean up and a road test was about 3.5 hours. I'm not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, and I did it all by myself in my carport with tools I already had.

Update:

Experienced OVERsteer (thanks for the corrections everyone) for the first time today, driving with the newly installed sway bar! Scary!

Long, wide, sweeping curve on ramp at 72-ish mph, let off the gas to slow down, and I could feel the rear start to come loose. Remembered reading the forum, got back on the gas, and it straightened right out.

Definitely a difference in the way it handles! NOT going to the full stiff setting anytime soon!


Next up is plastidip for the mirror caps, hood scoop and grille surround. Depending on the difficulty and reversibility, I may do the home depot grille mod to increase airflow and make it look more aggressive. Maybe this weekend?

 

What was the curve like before the bar? Pics?

 

hahaha, that's oversteer my friend! when the back end of the car starts to come around is oversteer. Understeer is when you're turning the wheel but the car wants to go straight-on. Oversteer is much much more fun

 

Oversteer is hitting the guard rail with the back of the car,
Understeer is hitting the guard rail with the front.

 

Haha, thanks for the correction guys. I'm a little gun-shy heading into curves and turns now. I need to find an open area without cops and nosy people to learn the capabilities and limitations of my mod.

In other news, plastidipped the scoop, top trim and mirror caps today. Two of the scoop tabs broke, but I think it was more due to poor design and heat rather than me attempt to remove it. Gotta pick up some epoxy or something to glue them back on.

 

I've been getting some vibration in the steering wheel since after I got the new wheels, and I've been waiting to install my brass caliper bushings. I've been thinking about replacing the rotors since I didn't replace or turn them at my brake job in August, as well as upgrading the pads.

I ordered some green stuff pads from amazon, and based on recommendations here, I went with the centric oem rotors. I was gonna buy the brembo oem ones instead, at $40/ea but they only had one, and I have the time to do it now. Turned out, the centric rotors are $4.00 each (not a typo) on amazon right now so I had no choice but to try them.

I think upgrading the pads, replacing the rotors, installing the bushings and rotating the tires, along with properly torquing the wheels should help resolve this vibration issue.

I just read about problems with putting green stuff on the fronts only, but I'm gonna try it anyways and hope for the best.

 

I pulled it up on g-maps, but I can't share it here. Northbound U.S. 101 at the CA interstate 280/680 interchange, zip code is 95122, turning onto 680 (to the right). Posted suggested limit (sign is yellow, not regulatory) is 40mph.

 

Did the brake upgrade, man what a difference! I only drove about five miles, and the brakes were smoking, but they felt really good and they look cool.

 

That valve cover repair scares me. I would be too worried that the material will break down and start going down my engine and causing thousands of dollars worth of repair. I'd bite the bullet and buy a new cover. I think pelican sells them for $270.

 

So I cancelled the roof graphic order, and I was quoted something like $614 for a local shop to do it. I think that is way too much for something that could only last 2 years.

Now what do I do instead? Carbon fiber pieces (gas cap, hatch handle, scoop)? Shelby stripes (black or lime green)? Side angled stripes with a number on them? I dunno but my budget is somewhere around $350...

Ideas?

 

Traded the Mini and my Tahoe in on a new Mazda.

It made the most sense, trading in two 8-9 year old cars with 187,000 combined miles and no warranty for a new car with 6 miles and 100,000 mile warranty that gets 40mpg highway and seats 4. Cut my payments nearly in half and lowered my interest rate.

Maybe someday down the road I'll pick up a blue/black JCW of some variety, but for the next few years I'll be zoom-zooming rather than motoring.

Thanks everyone for your help!