I will be installing new rear control arm bushings on my 2004 Cooper S. I decided to use the "dropping the front subframe" method. Will I need a wheel alignment after the procedure? I figure if I spray paint all subframe bolt points I can probably assemble it with the exact subframe position alignment.

 

You should not have to do an alignment on the car. If it is like the BMW front subframes there may be alignment pins in the body that the frame will fit into. When doing stuff that the front frame has to be removed at work there is no need to do an alignment. Although it has been a while since the last time i dropped the front subframe from a MINI.
Fred

 

Rear control arm bushing or front lower control arm bushing? If it's the front control arm bushing you're talking about, you're going to need an alignment regardless of whether you drop the subframe or not. The control arm will not sit exactly where you had it after pulling it off. Good luck with the install. I've been reading that it's a big PITA.

 

+1 to what Evasive says... Dropping the subframe to install new control arm bushings will require an alignment after. If you are really good, you can keep things pretty much aligned, but I would advise to have the alignment checked. Not an expert here, but I have done this 3 times on mine, and also assisted with 2 other cars.

You will know just how well you have bolted everything back up when you drive it.

Good luck,

 

Just my opinion, but the whole job is not that terrible. I did mine by myself, it just takes time and careful effort, but definitely doable!

 

The MINI dealership did not do an alignment after replacing the front lower control arm bushings on my 06 MCS. I know that does not mean much but there opinion was it was not required.

 

Same experience here, and the alignment didn't change a bit.
Maybe they marked the subframe or just lucked out and got it back in the same spot.
I'm getting powerflex bushings installed soon at a non-dealer place
(not going with oem's again, the originals lasted a little over 30K and the
replacements lasted less than 30k).
They said they'd check the alignment after - It's good now and I'm hoping
it will still be good after.

 

I would say this is a relatively simple DIY as long as you PB Blast all subframe bolts & nuts the day before. Also, be certain to order the bushing prepressed. Then it should be simple. Pressing the bushings yourself will be the biggest headache ever. Good luck. Powerflex are definitely the way to go!

 

Bushings changed to powerflex last week. The subframe had to be dropped due to seized bolts holding the bushing brackets,
but after all was done, no change in alignment. The shop says the subframe pretty much goes back in the same position
without any real room for shifting or play. A new right outer ball joint was replaced as well.
I notice more precise steering response, better than when the bushings were replaced with new rubber oem ones 30K ago,
and any increase in ride harshness is quite subltle if any, at least at temps above 35F.
Also, it used to pull to one side a little sometimes when starting off on slippery surfaces on an incline (rain or gravel),
and it no longer does that.

 

Had mine done over the weekend. Alignment feels the same as it did prior.

 

I'm awaiting my powerflex bushings from Way, hopefully it will not be a rough job with a lift and air tools, plus I ordered pre-pressed bushings.

As far as alignment, I've wanted to see how far I can max out the settings for handling with the stock sport suspension, anyone know how far the stock adjustments go? the shop I talked to said I could maybe get a degree of camber, set the toe a bit more neutral in rear and there is no way to adjust castor up front without special magic parts...

Hope i can get a bit more neutral feel (really pushy right now with stock sport setup).

 

The stock Mini does not have any camber or caster adjustment in the front. The front toe is adjustable.
Starting in 2005 the rear camber is adjustable. The rear toe is also adjustable.

You will need fixed or adjustable front camber plates to increase the amount of negative camber. Here is a link:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/02-06-c...camber-plates/

Increasing the negative camber in the front (around -2.0) and adjusting the toe more towards zero makes a big improvement in handling. If after adding camber plates you still understeer (push) too much, you can add a larger rear sway bar (such as a 19mm bar).