I just got 'the clutch/gearbox noise' in my 2004 MCS and my mechanic suspects a broken throw-out bearing and perhaps more. Have about 56k miles on the car.

If we go fully into a flywheel / clutch replacement, I need to decide whether or not to use the OEM dual-mass flywheel or put a more traditional standard type in.

I'm aware of the changes in shift operation & noise that could cause but does anyone know if the extra vibration going into the transmission is likely to shorten it's life?

After the expense of this job, I'd just as soon not create more!

Dan

 

I'm interested to know these things as well.

 

The extra vibration you get from a single-mass flywheel is at idle, when the clutch is not engaged.....
The dual mass flywheel was desgined to make cars (orgionaly diesel) vibrate less at idle....manfactures have moved them into other makes to keep consumers happy..many folks seem to believe that a car that seems to idle perfectly smooth is well built, well running...so for a comparitvly small $$ outlay, a oem makes a car feel more like a luxury car they can sell for more $$$.
NVH will be higher...and I pretty sure a single mass flywheel will need a "sprung" clutch disc to prevent self engaging from the vibration...
LUK makes an aftermarket dualmass flywheel that is slightly cheaper than the oem from my understanding...

 

PS if the weight of the flywheel stays of the same, the shift operation as you phrased it will be the same (with the same clutch anyway), but with a lightweight version, or a grippier higher holding capicity clutch, it will feel different....
The OEM clutch seems to be the best for most folks...

 

Thanks for the insight folks! I'm thinking an OEM clutch with something other than the local NAPA Auto Parts flywheel. I don't know where my guy gets his parts but I plan to participate in the decision this time. Anybody got a recommendation for a decent, non-dual-mass flywheel?

Dan

 

Is there are reason you want to replace the OEM dual-mass flywheel? If not, don't do it as you most likely don't need to...

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lutch-kit.html

 

Proper advice on this issue depends significantly on your intended use of the car, your driving style, and skill level. Does anyone else in your household ever drive your car? Do you rely frequently on valet parkers? Do you drive in dense city traffic or deal with a lot of uphill starts? What is your relative preference for comfort/quiet/ease vs. performance/complexity? Without knowing any of these, we can't steer you toward the right decision.

I will, however, point out a couple of things you should be asking in addition to the flywheel question. You are probably aware of the ridiculous cost of a clutch job performed by a mechanic's shop. Therefore, you want to make sure that all parts already being removed or accessed during the job are worth putting back.

1. Clutch assembly: clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing); flywheel, slave cylinder (crappy OEM prone to fail; cheap to replace)

2. Gearbox: upgrade to '05-'06 model?; install LSD? Consider these especially if it turns out your gearbox, and not the clutch, is the problem.

3. Bushings: motor/gearbox mounts; front control arm bushings

4. CV axles

I'm sure I'm overlooking many other items that may need replacement or could be upgraded to perform better or avoid future failure. Whatever your driving style or level of desired performance, you should be thinking about all these parts in conjuction with the clutch job. Whether you replace them with OEM or aftermarket stuff depends on the performance you seek.

 

Well, I did the deed. Replaced the dual mass with a single mass flywheel and a 'sprung' clutch. Turns out that the throwout bearing had disintegrated and its bushing melted. Clutch face was showing rivets.

BTW, my shop guy(s) read this thread and the one FlzRider linked to (thanks) and seemed really interested in both.

To answer Jazzop's excellent points - admittedly after-the-fact since the repair was underway before I saw his comments:

Driving style - intermittently aggressive
Skill level - not very - however, I've had an Austin Healey, a Porsche, a Jag and a Lotus Elan...probably suggests bad judgement rather than skill.
Anyone else in your household ever drive your car? NO
Do you rely frequently on valet parkers? NEVER
Do you drive in dense city traffic or deal with a lot of uphill starts? NO
What is your relative preference for comfort/quiet/ease vs. performance/complexity? Prefer comfort but seek performance

My first impressions (other than a precipitous drop in my bank account) are positive.

• The car idles just fine (I was expecting rough idle).
• The clutch engages at a much lower point - new clutch, duh.
• Not sure it's quicker but the whole kit seems strangely lighter, more agile . . . if that makes any sense.
• The 'grab' of the clutch - the travel distance between starting to engage and fully engaged - is definitely shorter which will take some getting used to. More like a Lotus than a Porsche.

All in all, it seems like a good decision.

Thank you all for your information and insights!

DD

 

Thanks for the update, this is good to know. The shop thinks my 2006 MC's throwout bearing is starting to wear (making a loud whirring/grinding sound when pushing in the clutch) and I have a feeling that replacing the whole setup is going to be my only option. Mine's only at 53k miles...ugh. Have fun with your fixed-up baby!

 

bakkenmini - be careful here! That's exactly the sound I got before I took it in. Also, my clutch started slipping, too, when I put lots of torque on the drive train. When my mechanic took it all apart, the throwout assembly had failed, little pieces. He indicated it was imperative that he or I not drive it since more damage would be possible. Thought you ought to know. Dan

 

Yikes. That's what I'm afraid of...I've heard such terrible things about how cheap the throwout bearings are and that they just come to pieces when the assembly is opened up. My clutch hasn't been slipping at all yet, it engages without any issues whatsoever. I hate to pay for the labor to have them get all the way into the clutch assembly just to replace one cheap part...so I'm dreading having to drop the money for a whole new clutch/flywheel asembly even if the clutch still has quite a bit of life left in it.

I've been meaning to call the dealership to have them take a look and see if Mini would actually do anything to help cover the repair. The independent shop that looked at it said it was way early for a throwout bearing to wear out like this. (Though I won't hold my breath)