OK, so my AC has been working just fine until today. 03 MCS with 74k miles. I have all the settings correct, and turn the it on "Auto" and "Lo" and the fan works but no cool air comes through the vents anymore.

I checked the fuse, and it is fine. Is this most like an issue where I need to have it charged, or a bigger issue like a compressor? How would I know the difference?

Thanks

 

what was the outside temperature at the time ??

If it was cooler than the temp you had it set to and the "auto" climate control switch was on, the system may not be kicking in the a/c compressor.
If it was 90 degrees where you live, yeah, you have an a/c problem.

 

Ya, I know I have a problem, just trying to figure out which one.

 

So I just went to go and check to see if the compressor sounds like it is kicking on or if it is draining power from the engine.

I did it a couple times and it sounds like the engine RPM changed about a second after I pushed the a/c button, but after a few times it didn't seem to change anymore.

Does that give any more useful information?

 

I don't think anyone can tell you much that you already know. From my experience with AC and based on how systems used to work:

You need to take it into a shop that has a good reputation, one that won't say "Oh it's you compressor, that will be $600 please." Since AC is AC pretty much, I'd take it into a shop that works on AC systems. Check on the net for any reviews of shops you might consider. Obviously the goal to avoid ones who rip people off.

A 2003 AC system is getting old. So maybe if you are lucky, some seals wore out and you simply need to have them replaced and the system recharged. That's cheaper than needing a compressor, etc.

When the AC is off, then turned on, does the engine change in revs and/or can you feel it kick in? If so, then you know it's something internal.

When was the last time it was charged? If not since 2003, I suspect the thing is bone dry. I don't know if that rule still applies, that if a system does not have refrigerant to not run it because the "freon" (freon is no longer used?) contains lubricants that protect the seals, etc.

Usually I don't see it as being a fuse issue, if it kicks in then a fuse is not the problem.

 

See my post.

I would STOP fooling with it and take it into a shop. You could be damaging the system if it is out of refrigerant (that contains lubricants.) You might end up frying the compressor.

From the symptoms you describe I am not aware of any switches, fuses or thermostats that provide a DIY fix at home.

But the experts can chime in.

 

sorry to say but I'll bet a donut with sprinkles your compressor has bit the dust and that will end up being a grand or there abouts..... Ours died on the 02 last spring at about 80,000

 

OK, update. Just ran to autoparts store to see if I can check the pressure and add some freon if it needs it. The kit I bought lets you check it without breaking open the freon, so if it says I have enough or too much (according to their scale) I just take it back at no cost to me.

Sure enough, it says "warning" and is in the 100 psi level. I don't think it has too much, since it has worked for so many years? Maybe Mini uses a different scale or maybe the compressor isn't pumping it so it gets a false high reading since it isn't cycling.

I am pretty sure now that it is the compressor, doing the research here, looking at the miles and how old the car is, and it doesn't seem like anything is clicking on or surge of power loss, I am better it is the compressor. I know a kid that is a local mechanic and does stuff on the side, looks like I will have him check it out and if it is shot, buy a used one.

No way in HELL I am paying BMW $1000 for that. They already say I need a new clutch and control arm bushings at $3000 for that work. I am going as long as I can on the clutch, it has been 6 months already.

 

I love my 2006 MINI, but stories like yours and the OP is what is motivating me to sell my loved one and get an 09 that will have 3 years warranty. (I plan on selling my MINI with one year left on the warranty so the new owner has a year of factory protection.)

I don't think I will ever not have a MINI again, but I would like the warranty coverage.

At least that's the excuse I am giving people concerned about my buying a new 09.

Thanks for your tales of woe.

I am test driving an 09 convertible this week.

 

two of my Hondas a/c have died at about the same time, and a Caravan....the Audi a/c went quicker... The MINI has been average ....

Most reliable car I ever owned was a 95 Miata tho. Most serious problem in first 140,000 was a water pump.

 

you can check the charge, and it sounds like you did.
you can check if the compressor is turning on - sounds like you did and the compressor came on for a bit.(?)
Sounds like you have to take it in, but it may or may not be the compressor. Could also be related to the temperature controls or over-riding safety features. (One of my other cars has a feature to close down the AC circuit when the engine temperature is too high.)

 

FWIW / for your reference ~ just replaced the A/C compressor on my 04 / 75K mile Cooper S. I had no leaks - the compressor clutch was not engaging at all ... so I was not getting any refrigerated air

Cost about a grand to have the dealer R&R ~ and they warranty their work for 2 years (parts & labor).

IMHO ~ that is cheaper than buying an 09 for warrany coverage (I mean no offense and I do not want to spoil your excuse, MichaelSF)

ps ~ my son is enjoying that 95 Miata

 

Same exact thing was confirmed for my '05 MCS with 55K miles. Unfortunately the problem went undetected long enough for it to take the A/C compressor with it .

Yesterday afternoon I suddenly lost my A/C. I talked to my independent mechanic right away and he said to bring in the car today. He did the same exact tests Frenchie described in his post and low and behold the fan's low speed is not working. The fan is only working at high speed, therefore, the engine is running hotter and the A/C compressor was also running at max pressure. This problem eventually killed the compressor (As confirmed by the A/C test gauges when turning on the compressor the high pressure gauge barely moved and hot air coming from the vents).

I am upset that the dealer did not detect this issue when I last took the car to them in mid-December. Would have been a perfect opportunity to replace the engine fan as they replaced the clutch and it would have also been covered under warranty.

So now I am looking at a new A/C compressor and new engine fan. This will be at least $1,300 repair bill But what can I do? I need the A/C. Yesterday we had temps in the low 90s

So I left the car this morning with him. He has a new replacement engine fan in stock but needs to order the compressor. If he can get a hold of the compressor, he'll have the car ready this afternoon, if not, it will be ready tomorrow.

The way I look at it....$1,300 still beats buying a new car with warranty. I love this car and keeping it in tip top shape is well worth the money IMHO

By the way, my friend tech told me that the low speed engine fan is a very common failure in these cars (He does at least 3 per week, that is why he keeps the part in stock) and the fans tend to go south by the time the car reaches 50K-60K miles, so keep an eye on it if your car has the factory fan still in place.

 

WOW, that really sucks. Seems like you are paying a private mechanic the same as you would a dealer, I am not sure you are getting a deal there.

I took mine to a freind of a friend mechanic yesterday. He went through it all and took about 1.5 hrs figuring it out before confirming that it is the compressor. He looked it up and the book says 2.4 hrs to replace, so he gave me a price of $120 for labor. I will give him more since he didn't even let me pay him for his 1.5 hrs to diagnose it on a sunday. I got a compressor off of ebay, used/low miles for just under $200. So the whole thing I should only be out just under $400 (cash of course).

If this guy does a good job, I will have him be the one that replaces my suspension, SC pulley and one ball exhaust mod, clutch and lower control arm bushings.

 

Well, the thing is that I am getting a brand new compressor. That is definitely upping the price. We are talking about between $600-$800 for a new unit. Since he is also replacing the engine/radiator fan assembly at the same time, he is giving me a discount on the labor (His charge is $70/hour).

 

That makes sense. Full retail for the compressor from BMW is $650, and it looks like you are having other work done as well.

 

Yeah I am having the radiator/engine fans replaced (The real culprit here) and a routine tire rotation/balance.

 

Well, the new compressor has been installed. But now my mechanic found a pipe that was rubbing on the front sway bar and has a hole in it (Hence the coolant leak). I am impressed with him. He managed to find a new compressor and get it installed today, but now the rubbed pipe finding is going to set him back until tomorrow (Had to order it and get it overnight to the shop).

I am glad he noticed this and found the leak. I should have the car by early tomorrow afternoon if not sooner.

Well lets see.... This car has been TLC'ed to death this year:

1) New Clutch and flywheel installed in December (Covered by the MINI Extended Service Contract.....$2,500 repair bill)
2) New front suspension urethane bushings, new lower engine support + urethane insert and engine to transmission urethane bushing insert and 4 wheel alignment done in January ($700 bill, money well spent IMHO).
3) New A/C compressor, kinked pipe and radiator/engine fans installed between today and tomorrow. Also tire rotation + balance done on this visit. (Bill climbing up to $1,500).
4) New front tire fitted after a nail was discovered on the inside wall rendering unfixable ($225).

And in around 5,700 miles from now, the 60K dealer service pit stop to include oil/filter change, new engine belts, new front brake pads and rotors. Fortunately this one is paid for by the MINI Extended service contract.

So I hope that after all is said and done, I won't have to worry about anything major for the next 4-5 years, aside from regular routine maintenance.

 

I am surprised that the car's computer does not trigger a warning when the Low Speed fan is faulty. It seems there are a few important electrical/electronic components that can fail w/o a warning light on the instrument panel, and whose failure equates costly repair.... i.e. P/S Pump fan, Low Speed radiator fan. I hope those thermo sensors and oil pressure/temp senders have a check loop to warn the driver if they're malfunctioning.

 

I realize it's "to each their own" but after a car is off warranty I never take them to the dealer for work. Prices are a rip-off, from my experience.

E.g. On my 740i the battery went dead due to never driving it (for about two months, I don't drive much in San Francisco).

So they towed it to the San Francisco BMW dealer (since it would not jump or hold a charge). Besides, I was too busy to pay attention (I was in trial at the time).

Cost to replace the battery (and run a "diagnostics" to make sure that it was not something else that caused the battery to go dead, that is, other than the car sitting unused for two months. All of this "code" for they simply replaced the battery and didn't do squat) $500!

On a 325i I had the dealer wanted $1200 to put in a new radiator. Thanks but no thanks. Took it to a great local independent shop that specialized in BMWs. Cost... $600.

So no dealer work for me, on A/C or anything.

 

Having a good independent mechanic is critical when the car is no longer under warranty.

 

I agree. It is absolutely lousy Now that I have a new fan and A/C compressor I will keep an eye on the low speed fan from now on. The low speed fan failure cost me a new A/C compressor that otherwise would have lasted perhaps much longer.

 

Two days in the shop and $1,600 lighter on the wallet, my car is back working like a charm again.

Items replaced:

Failed radiator fan (Only working on high speed, main cause of A/C compressor premature failure) ($300)

New AC Delco A/C compressor ($650)

Kinked A/C high pressure line (Rubbing against the front swaybar, freon leak...I suspect the dealer F****ked this one up when they replace the clutch in December) ($162)

System recharge ($69)

Routine tire rotation plus balancing ($40)

Full inspection (Free!)

4 hours of labor @ $75 (He discounted 2 additional hours).

Word to the wise.... Keep a very, very close eye (and ear) on that stupid radiator fan. The fan was working on high speed all the time possibly for a very long time. Engine was running hot (The dash temp gauge is useless so don't trust it) and the A/C compressor was running at incredibly high pressure most of the time. This caused the compressor to seize and die prematurely!

Don't let a $300 part failure turn into a $1,600 repair bill like it happened to me!!!!

My independent told me that these MINI radiator fans are made to last between 50K-60K miles at the most. The low speed fan setting stops working and that is when all hell brakes loose. He keeps new radiator fans in stock and replaces 3 to 4 a week. He also showed me dead MINI A/C compressor in a row of boxes from victims (like me) of seized compressor due to radiator fan low speed failure.

Unfortunately, both the radiator fan and A/C compressor can only be sourced from MINI. No aftermarket alternatives exist at the moment.

If you are gonna keep your R53 for a long time, plan to replace the radiator fan every 50K-60K miles. Cheaper than replacing your A/C compressor that often.

 

so, how would one tell if the low speed fan speed stopped functioning?

Would the fan then operate at high speed immediately or not operate until it reached the higher temperature?

 

I find this design a bit odd. Usually the fan unit itself is just a motor with a fan attached to it. On the other German cars I have, a separate component called the "Thermo Switch/Relay" that reads the coolant temperature via a thermo sensor and regulates the fan speed - low or high. It's usually the thermo sensor or Thermo Switch/Relay that fails, not the fan unit. If BMW/Mini integrates the Thermo Switch into the fan unit, we'll paying for the whole damn package when it should be only $30-$50.

Also be aware that the Mini has only 1 radiator fan, when most cars have 2.... running a higher risk of overheating when the fan unit malfunctions or fails.