R50/53 Onboard test
#1
Onboard test
Are there any onboard test features on a mini. My miata had selftest warnings built into the speedo my harley dose also. You just have to know the code like pull a fuse turn the key off and on 6 times etc and they wiil go into self test mode and flash codes or numbers though the speedometer . Lots of vehicles have this but people think im nuts when I ask about minis. Anybody know?
Thanks.
Ps where is the under the hood section of this web site I see people refer to?
Thanks.
Ps where is the under the hood section of this web site I see people refer to?
Last edited by mcfreeak; 02-11-2009 at 05:57 PM. Reason: I screwed it up
#2
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Are there any onboard test features on a mini. My miata had selftest warnings built into the speedo my harley dose also. You just have to know the code like pull a fuse turn the key off and on 6 times etc and they wiil go into self test mode and flash codes or numbers though the speedometer . Lots of vehicles have this but people think im nuts when I ask about minis. Anybody know?
Thanks.
Ps where is the under the hood section of this web site I see people refer to?
Thanks.
Ps where is the under the hood section of this web site I see people refer to?
I copy the ones that interest me and here is your answer:
The IKE has 21 test functions you can access by holding the trip button down while turning the ignition key. Press briefly to advance through menu options, press and hold to access that option. Tests 1&2 are always unlocked, Tests 3-21 are locked. Test number 19 is the "Unlock" function for getting to the rest of them.
Try subtest 2.0 (hold trip button, turn on key, press repeatedly to scroll up to 2.0, then hold). It runs a test that activates all gauges, LED's, and indicators.
A complete list of functions is below, this example is how to get into the menu number '7'.[/FONT]
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1.
2. The screen will say 'Test' and a number.
3. Scroll through, (pressing reset button) through to test 19 and wait a moment.
4. Wait and the message will say "log i-off" then "log i-on" and back to "log i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press again. You are now in the system.
5. You can (if you wish) start the ignition any time from now.
6. Scroll through to test 7.0 (or whichever from the list below) and wait a moment, after a pause you will enter the test 7.* range of information.
7. You can scroll through now (7.1,7.2,7.3 etc.) using the reset button.
8. You can exit each menu by pressing, holding for a few seconds, then releasing the reset button.
9. To leave the system scroll to 19 and leave it for a few moments.
Switching off the ignition also exits the system.
Test:
1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.
2.0 Combisystem Test
3.0 Service interval counter
4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.
5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.
6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)
7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed
8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3
9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)
10.0 Land codes
11.0 Unit codes
12.0 No function
13.0 Gong test
14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures
15.0 - 18.0 No function
19.0 On/Off for Test menu.
20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption
Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.
20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value
21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)
Enjoy your MINI....
Last edited by thecigarman; 02-12-2009 at 09:19 AM.
#3
#4
Hi - I'm desperately trying to find what the on-board diagnostic codes mean under function 14 of the Mini on-board test menu above.
The garage can't connect to the car's ECU through the OBD2 port for some reason. They have tried different diagnostic code readers too.
The codes I have are 102101 and 112101.
Any help appreciated.
The garage can't connect to the car's ECU through the OBD2 port for some reason. They have tried different diagnostic code readers too.
The codes I have are 102101 and 112101.
Any help appreciated.
#5
Hi - I'm desperately trying to find what the on-board diagnostic codes mean under function 14 of the Mini on-board test menu above.
The garage can't connect to the car's ECU through the OBD2 port for some reason. They have tried different diagnostic code readers too.
The codes I have are 102101 and 112101.
Any help appreciated.
The garage can't connect to the car's ECU through the OBD2 port for some reason. They have tried different diagnostic code readers too.
The codes I have are 102101 and 112101.
Any help appreciated.
14.0 674850
14.1 304828
14.2 622810
14.3 112109
14.4 102109
Any and all advice and help would be appreciated. One last note, the car does run and start fine. It is a 2002 mini cooper s Thank you
#6
If can't connect with OBD2 scann tool, you must check if on OBD socket on pin 16 have 12V with ignition Off and 12V on pin 1 with ignition ON.
If don't have +12V on pin 16, check fuse F3 from fuse holder inside cabin ,left down.
IF is OK , must check pin 7 form OBD socket.This pin is related to K-line comunication.
You must prove the continuity between the pin 7 OBD socket and the pin 36 indicated(red arrow) on the small plug of engine ECU.
K-Line cable is Vio/Wht colour.
If don't have +12V on pin 16, check fuse F3 from fuse holder inside cabin ,left down.
IF is OK , must check pin 7 form OBD socket.This pin is related to K-line comunication.
You must prove the continuity between the pin 7 OBD socket and the pin 36 indicated(red arrow) on the small plug of engine ECU.
K-Line cable is Vio/Wht colour.
#7
I have no power to fuse F3 there for my OBD2 connector isnt getting power when i turn the key on. I found that the sunroof drain had previously came unhooked and the was some corrosion from water intrusion in the interior panel fuse box and the 3 connectors located in the LF kick panel. I cleaned all the connections and removed the fuse box and disassembled for inspection and cleaning. With everything clean i still do not have 12volts on fuse F3. I feel like if i had a diagram that was accurate and showed the wire color and connectors between the battery and fuse F3 in the interior panel fuse block i may be able to figure this thing out but im not having much luck coming up with any info. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you
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#8
Have here wiring for F3 fuse,who receives +12V direct from fuse FL2(is 50A fuse)located on engine bay left side.Wire colour from FL2 to F3 is Red/Yell.
If you fail for some reason to have +12V on pin 16, just cut the wire and bring +12V on pin 16 from any point he has +12V.
Last edited by adriancl; 10-01-2019 at 03:35 AM.
#9
If can't connect with OBD2 scann tool, you must check if on OBD socket on pin 16 have 12V with ignition Off and 12V on pin 1 with ignition ON.
If don't have +12V on pin 16, check fuse F3 from fuse holder inside cabin ,left down.
IF is OK , must check pin 7 form OBD socket.This pin is related to K-line comunication.
You must prove the continuity between the pin 7 OBD socket and the pin 36 indicated(red arrow) on the small plug of engine ECU.
K-Line cable is Vio/Wht colour.
If don't have +12V on pin 16, check fuse F3 from fuse holder inside cabin ,left down.
IF is OK , must check pin 7 form OBD socket.This pin is related to K-line comunication.
You must prove the continuity between the pin 7 OBD socket and the pin 36 indicated(red arrow) on the small plug of engine ECU.
K-Line cable is Vio/Wht colour.
My immediate problem was sorted as it was the fuel filter O-ring (large) that was not seated properly and hence no fuel was making it to the engine.
#11
Hi, does anyone know what 11.0 unit code means when it shows 11.0 then a bunch of dashes and a number 7 at the end? I checked 14.0 to 14.4 and had all 000000 for every test, but not sure what 11.0 with dashes and a 7 mean. 11.1 showed all zeros.
Car stalled today went into limp mode at a traffic light as I was slowing down. Like usual I put it in park turn off the car and start it again. It has done this maybe 2-3 times in the 15 years I've had my Mini, it's an 05 Cooper S automatic, 144K km, drive maybe 5K year since 2010. I've had engine misfire in 2016 at a car wash waiting in line, had trouble starting it as it stuttered to start eventually it started and I have had no stalls or misfires since. Dealer said slight low compression on a couple of the cylinders but nothing to rebuild the engine. I'm hanging on without investing in major repairs as I'm looking at the 2021 MINI sometime next year. I'm assuming it is still safe to drive and limp mode doesn't usually happen on the highway. I have no leaks or anything needing immediate attention. All fans work at proper intervals, low speed, high speed, power steering fan all work fine.
Thanks
Anthony
Car stalled today went into limp mode at a traffic light as I was slowing down. Like usual I put it in park turn off the car and start it again. It has done this maybe 2-3 times in the 15 years I've had my Mini, it's an 05 Cooper S automatic, 144K km, drive maybe 5K year since 2010. I've had engine misfire in 2016 at a car wash waiting in line, had trouble starting it as it stuttered to start eventually it started and I have had no stalls or misfires since. Dealer said slight low compression on a couple of the cylinders but nothing to rebuild the engine. I'm hanging on without investing in major repairs as I'm looking at the 2021 MINI sometime next year. I'm assuming it is still safe to drive and limp mode doesn't usually happen on the highway. I have no leaks or anything needing immediate attention. All fans work at proper intervals, low speed, high speed, power steering fan all work fine.
Thanks
Anthony
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