R50/53 Best Brake Fluid For My Setup
Best Brake Fluid For My Setup
Hello NAMers, I need some help over here:
I'm upgrading to JCW front calipers and and SS brake lines. For sure, I'll need a brake fluid for this process. Would anyone recommend my a good brake fluid for my use? I need something to run in high temps for very high street performance and some AutoX.
I'm upgrading to JCW front calipers and and SS brake lines. For sure, I'll need a brake fluid for this process. Would anyone recommend my a good brake fluid for my use? I need something to run in high temps for very high street performance and some AutoX.
In no particular order
Motul 600
Ate Super Blue
Ate 200 Same as Blue, but not Blue in color, good for swapping back and forth to be sure a complete bleed is done.
Ford Heavy Duty, good for if you bleed a lot, inexpensive and a decent fluid
Wilwood
Castrol SRF, if cost is no object
Motul 600
Ate Super Blue
Ate 200 Same as Blue, but not Blue in color, good for swapping back and forth to be sure a complete bleed is done.
Ford Heavy Duty, good for if you bleed a lot, inexpensive and a decent fluid
Wilwood
Castrol SRF, if cost is no object
MOTUL RBF600:The world's best selling brake fluid. Developed for all forms and levels of racing, the RBF600 is one of the most popular fluid's on the market today.
Dry: 312°C (594°F)
Wet: 216°C (421°F)
CASTROL SRF:The SRF is the absolute best brake fluid on the market, period. If you want the best the Castrol SRF is it. Due to it's extremely high dry & wet boiling points.
Dry: 590°F
Wet: 511°F
How many liters do I need?
Dry: 312°C (594°F)
Wet: 216°C (421°F)
CASTROL SRF:The SRF is the absolute best brake fluid on the market, period. If you want the best the Castrol SRF is it. Due to it's extremely high dry & wet boiling points.
Dry: 590°F
Wet: 511°F
How many liters do I need?
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1.5 liters for a complete flush. For example, the Motul 600 comes in 0.5 litre bottles. You might only use a small part of the 3rd bottle, but have the brake guys bleed through till that last bottle is almost gone to ensure you get all the old fluid and any gunk out.
There's also Motul RBF 660 if you feel the need for the higher performing fluid but don't want to go as far as the SRF. For your application, I would venture to say that the ATE Superblue/200 is sufficient.
You'll be fine...
FWIW, just search around for the wet and dry boiling points. Most are similar on the dry, and differ a lot on the wet. If you do regular bleeds, even the cheap Castrol (can't remember the name) will do you fine.
Matt
Matt
I've been running my car for like 15 months now with less than 20K miles on it, this is my first bleed. I'm planning to do a coolant & brake fluid drainage once a year for my car's life.
Long Pedal Travel or “Spongy” Pedal caused by:
High compressibility, up to three times that of glycol based fluids;
High viscosity, twice that of glycol based fluids, leading to slow rates of fill and retention of free air entrapped during filling, and hence bleeding difficulties.
A Sudden Loss of Braking resulting from:
Air absorption - gasification of absorbed air at relatively low temperature produces vapor lock effect;
Immiscibility (failure to mix) with water - whilst the presence of dissolved water will reduce the boiling point of glycol based fluids, any free water in silicone-filled systems will boil and produce vapor lock at much lower temperatures (100°C or thereabouts)
“Hanging On” of brakes due to:
Low lubricity - in disc brake systems the sole mechanism for normalization of system pressure upon release of pedal pressure is a designed-in tendency of seals to recover to their ‘at rest’ attitude. Low lubricity works against this tendency.
High viscosity exacerbates the effects of low lubricity.
The high price of silicone fluids does not produce higher performance in hard driving or even normal road use.
No issues man! Just drop me a line when you feel you need any help about brakes. I recommend you check our website at www.auto-works.cc.
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