I am getting ready to change the oil on my r53. My independent mechanic always used royal purple before. Where can I buy that stuff and the oil filter?

THanks

 

here is all the places in colorado that are dealers.

http://www.royalpurple.com/dealers/cob.html

I'm not actually sure if you can get aftermarket oil filters since i haven't tried...I get the Dealer filter. I'd call some of these places that sell the RP oil and see what they offer.

 

RP is available at speed shops, usually. Check their website for a dealer in your area. Another good oil is Red Line (although usually mail-ordered).

The filter can be had from various online sources (MINI Mania, Outmotoring, pelicanparts, etc) as well as the dealer (local or mail order).

You'll need a 36mm socket to remove the cap from the filter housing. I have a Hazet brand socket meant for this use, but others have gotten by with a std 1/2" dr socket. I believe Pep Boys now carries the socket as well for minimal money. I find a long handled, flex-head ratchet to be useful for getting the cap off/on.

Some other comments:

Be sure to put some oil on the new o-ring before installing the cap. Otherwise, it can be a royal PITA to remove the next time. I needed my 1/2" dr long-handle ratchet once because it was so tight - I suspect because the o-ring wasn't oiled. Warning: you probably will punch the fire wall when it lets go. Not much you an do about it... I wear mechanix gloves to keep the blood to a minimum.

After initially unscrewing the cap, let it sit in the housing to drain before removing from the car. Then as you remove it, flip it upside-down so as to minimize the amount of oil spilled.

Getting the cap and new filter back on can be fun. There is a spring in the housing that presses against he filter and makes the cap want to cross-thread initially. This is compounded by the fact there is little room to work and you can't really see what you're doing. The spring is sort of towards the center of the engine so if you press down towards that side while screwing the cap on, it may go easier. I use an inspection mirror to check progress. You'll hit resistance when the o-ring contacts the housing and you'll need the rachet to tighten it further. It gets easier with experience. I changed the oil in a friend's MCS yesterday and got the cap on first try.

 

Good write up. Thanks for not going into the "my prefered oil is better than your prefered oil" discussion...

 

for the oil. I find it much cheaper via the web. There's a local place that does RP for a pretty good price in a pinch, but I've saved over 50% on red-line with web purchase over some of the local shops that actually had it in stock....

Thanks for reminding me, it's time to get a new case!

Matt

 

Even with shipping charges? Need to look into this. It's gettin close for mine too.

 

I didn't realize people used RP in cars. I've used it in compressors in the chemical industry where reliability equates to running a machine nonstop for 18-24 months. The stuff is simply fantastic.

 

Which is better? Royal Purple of Mobil 1?

 

try these guys instead for that....

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

I'm running mobil 1 extended. It's good oil I think.

Imma try the German Syntec next time.. (the true synthetic) and maybe RP in the future.

 

Our Autozone actually carries some Royal Purple oils. Haven't checked what viscocities they are stocking, but I saw some when I was over there.

 

Checker/Shucks/Kragen is starting to carry Royal Purple. My local one (Shucks) has 5w/30 on the shelf now.

-skip-

 

Autozone. My understanding is that Royal Purple is made by the chemist that originally developed Mobile One. I use RP in all by vehicles including the boat.

 

It couldn't last forever.

- Matt

 

We stock Royal Purple and MINI oil filters for both the R50/52/53's and R56's. Just give us a call.

Chad
Detroit Tuned

 

I noticed AutoZone and O'Reilly's both have Royal Purple. $6.99/qt. at O'Reilly's.

 

That's what I pay for Red-Line! A local shop carried RP for about $5.50 a quart.

Matt

 

I did some searching and not surprisingly, oil prices are up a bit. I did find some RP prices in the mid six dollar range, but that was without shipping...

Matt

 

I bought my mini in december and Im currently trying to change my oil but the drain plug wont move!!! I put a shory ratchet on it with a wrench for some leverage but it wont even budge...

Is it safe to use a breaker bar? or will i snap the plug? its realllllllly due and i have an intake waiting to go on... what can i do?

I was thinking i would eat the extra charge once and bring it to the stealer so they can do it right cause i dont know who changed the oil last, because if they try and snap the plug its their problem...

 

[quote=Millertime610;2093530]I bought my mini in december and Im currently trying to change my oil but the drain plug wont move!!! I put a shory ratchet on it with a wrench for some leverage but it wont even budge...

Is it safe to use a breaker bar? or will i snap the plug? [quote]

The drain bolt is steel and the oil pan is aluminum so the pan will give before the bolt breaks. The real risk is that some ham handed "mechanic" over tightned it and damaged the threads.

The drain bolt HAS to come out and that's also the only way to determine if there's damage to any threads. I'd use a breaker bar or hand held impact wrench to get it started. If you're lucky the threads are just "stretched" or bound tightly and they'll break free with an pretty loud snap and then turn loose freely (so don't have a heart attack if you hear that noise when the bolt breaks free).

If the threads are actually damaged and torn then the bolt will usually require pretty good force to turn it for it's entire length as you screw it out. If that happens and you can see and feel that the threads are damaged (no longer cleanly cut and the drain bolt does not screw most of the way back in using your fingers) then remove the oil pan, have it drilled and re-taped for a larger drain bolt, reinstall it using a new oil pan gasket, and install the new oil drain bolt being careful not to over tighten it .

Update: I've reconsidered my recomendation because of how much of a PIA the oil pan is to remove. It can be tapped for a larger drain bolt still on the car if done carefully and then oil is poured into the engine with the drain bolt OUT so any debris are flushed out of the pan.

Regardless of your outcome I would also highly recomend using a Fumoto oil drain bolt/valve. If your present oil drain bolt is NOT also the oil temp sensor then buy the Fumoto for ~$25 shipped and you'll NEVER have to remove a drain bolt again. You just lift and swing the lever on the Fumoto, let the oil drain and swing the lever closed.

Best of luck with resolving this!

 

Righty tighty, lefty loosy. Be sure you turn it the correct direction. Been there, done that.

 

Ridingfar, I saw that you mentioned the fumoto oil drain valve, I was thinking of getting this but stopped short because I thought that the switch could possibly be opened when driving. I've never actually seen the product in person, but in your opinion is there any risk of this?

 

The lever has a locking slot on the valve body basically.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

 

I've personally used these on several motorcycles and cars. One valve I used on two seperate bikes over 8 years and ~70k miles. I've found them to be well designed and manufactured, and never had a leak out of any of them.

The lever is spring loaded so it stays in the closed locking notch until you push it "up" and slide it sideways to the open position. Install it using teflon tape so you can tighten it up with the lever on top/facing up - away from the road surface.

In applications like the Mini where the oil drain hole is horizontal - not vertical and facing down towards the ground - there is virtually zero chance the valve can be opened accidently. Maybe off road, backing into some brush or some totally wierd situation, but no, accidental opening is just not going to happen.

I think there's a greater chance of screwing up your oil drain threads from taking the drain bolt out and reinstalling it at each oil change than the risk of the Fumoto accidently opening or failing. My $.02 - hope that helps your decision.

 

Thanks alot, sounds good . I'm definitely going to get one now. It will definitely make my oil changes alot easier and faster.