Just wondering, I was looking at either the Mini Camera or a Fitcamx dash camera. I currently have a Fitmax in my 2022 Ram 1500. It was super easy to install. It replaces the plastic shell around the rear view mirror and looks really stealthy. Wiring includes a jumper harness and you tap into the connector behind the mirror.




I saw under accessories for the Mini, that they offer a dash camera, but there was not much information on how it’s mounted or wired. Of course the price was available of $310.

 

Hello,

Here is the MINI dash cam info. Their was an early version and the later 3.0 version. Usually we have more info then most sites or dealers would ever have.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-package.html

2.0



https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ew-mirror.html

3.0 system 66215A444A3 or 66215A444A4​​​​​​​ or 66215A444A8​​​​​​​

 

Do you have the installation instructions for the 3.0 camera in an R55?

 

I have a 24 F60 and have removed the shroud around the rear view mirror looking to tap into power for my V1. Anyone already probed around for the proper pickups for accessory power? I have the Iconic trim if it makes a difference. Picture for attention…..

 

Here you go for the Newer F54-F60. No install PDF for older MINIs, just follow the guide and tap the fuses/power of those cars.

 

I have the FitCam for Mini installed in my F60, same thing- plastic molded shell that replaces the existing one, adds a camera module, wiring harness that plugs between the mirror / rain sensor power and powers the FitCam.

 

I also have the V1 hardwired into my power supply, adding a fuse to the fuse block section that is powered from a relay that is off when ignition is off.

This isn't a job for light hearted: remove the footwell covers, remove 1 bolt to unlatch the fuse block from the firewall, remove a retainer clip from the rear of the block and then insert the proper contact into the empty side of the circuit on the block. Reassemble and then add the fuse to the circuit. That adds the circuit that was unwired from the factory. I had to research the proper contact insert for this, ended up purchasing a salvage block and pulled the right contact, assembled the fuseblock back to the firewall, connected my V1 power to the pigtail off that new fuse. I did this more of a curiosity exercise. If I had to do it again I'd just add a fuse doubler/piggyback to an existing circuit and be done with it. The key for me was getting a circuit that would power down with ignition off. There's a thread here where you add a V1 by tapping the power in the overhead module at the rain sensor, but that circuit remains powered for a few minutes after ignition off - had used it to power the rear view mirror with garage remote and compass. So when I ran this circuit for the V1 I also ran a wire for the garage remote/mirror. I didn't want anyone to be able to break the window and hit the garage door opener while it was still powered up.

 

Thanks for the reply and lead…..I’ll search for the thread for a mirror tap at the rain sensor. Running a circuit to the fuse block is a bit involved and I’m not keen on taking panels off and risk having a rattle, etc afterwards.

 

My suggestion is use one of the fuse doublers/piggy back add-on's: This will quickly add another circuit as simply as plugging in a fuse. Then run the wire up the passenger side A pillar and across the front of the roof cover. If you drop out the overhead console its easy to get up in there and wire the new circuit. Use the ground wire already in the overhead and it will work. Good luck!