nice read

 

Regarding the factory speaker wire going to the doors and the rear 6X9 – What advice does the group have for when the speaker wire should be upgraded with larger gauge wire? I am planning to upgrade the stock speakers and add an amp, and I am thinking of a few options – 1) a mild upgrade with a <50 watts RMS amp and high efficiency speakers (perhaps some JL Audio TR series speakers which seem to be working out well for several fellow NAMers here) and 2) a higher end upgrade with a >50 watts RMS amp and higher end speakers (looking at CDT, JL Audio, Bostons, IDs etc.)

I am not looking forward to running new wires into the doors, so the answer to this question will probably drive my speaker and amp selection.

Also, does anyone have pics of crossovers in the arm rests? Any advice as to what size crossover fits nicely into that space?

Thanks.

 

[URL="http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=444"]
I ran new wires into the doors and back to my relocated 6x9s. I used 14 gauge for the longer runs, and 16 for shorter runs.

Speaker Wire, 50ft, 16AWG Copper Enhanced Loud Oxygen Free

Speaker Wire, 50ft, 14AWG Copper Enhanced Loud Oxygen Free

 

This might be a dumb question, but I'm going by what I was told. I have some speaker replacements, but a few people I talked to said it wouldn't make a big difference if I switched just the speakers and keep everything else stock. Will I notice a difference if I get the 4 front speakers swapped (not interested in the 6x9's).

Sound Solutions (by my house) was trying to have me buy a whole new head unit and I don't think I want to do that. What do you all think? Any help is appreciated!

I just want something that sounds good. I'm not interested in the best or the best, just something my ears can enjoy. I hate the stock speakers btw!!

 

Thanks Robin - how powerful of an amplifier are you using? What I am trying to determine is when is it absolutely necessary to use the larger gauge wire - over 50 watts? Over 75 watts? Over 100 watts? And how much skill would you say it requires to run the wires through the doors (I have looked at that thread and it appears to be a lot of work)

Basically I am deciding between using a modest amp (35 - 50 watts) and going with JL Audio TR or BA S60 speakers in front and rear, or to step it up a notch and go for something around 75 - 100 watts and the associated higher end speakers like ID (I know you're a fan), CDT, JL C5 or something in that vein. If you think that I have to use larger gauge wire no matter what the amp size, then that answers a lot of questions right off the bat.

 

It depends whether your new drivers need an amp (amplifier).
Try to read through this long thread, there are some recommendations on drivers that might suite you (your budget?).

The last thing you need is a new head unit, that's for sure!
Even with amps you still use the OEM unit.
Only on (very) hi-end systems you use a different head unit, and believe me it's not easy to use as the OEM one (even with Steering wheel control).

Start by defining your total budget.

 

It will make a *HUGE* difference replacing the speakers alone.

Would it / could it be better with an amplifier too? Sure. But start with the speakers and see if you are happy.

I did front's first, then rears. For the speakers I have, the stock Mini head unit has plenty of power.

I have considered an amplifier, but haven't pulled the trigger. Almost did a month ago as Fry's had a great price on an amp with free installation, but got concerned about their level of tech working on my car.

In summary, no matter what you need to do speakers, so start there and see if it's good enough.

 

BXR & aafflyer you guys have been very helpful. Thanks a lot! I'm going to install the 4 Kickers I got for the front. I think I'll go ahead an get an amp for the speakers as well. I'm doing it...I might as well get it all done the first time around. I already have a sub & amp installed in my MINI, but my amp is mono. I'm going to need another amp for my speakers. How many channels do I need to power the 4 front speakers? 4 channels? (please excuse this noob queston )

 

I used the Image Dynamics Q 450.4 amp.
• 4-Ohms: 75 x 4 watts RMS
• 2-Ohms: 100 x 4 watts RMS

This chart is at the site where I got the wire:


The distance you run the wires, and ohm rating of the speakers is as important as amp power. I've forgotten the lengths of runs from my amp to the doors, but with all the turns, it is longer than one would expect in a small car. I ended up using something like 75 ft. of wire all told. I thought I was buying way too much wire when I got 50 ft. of 16 gauge and 50 ft. of 14 gauge, but there isn't much left.

I ended up with 4 ohm speakers, but if you are using 2 ohm, as many people do, you will probably want heavy wire even with the smaller amp.

 

I started out with a speaker swap (Infinity Kappa). Lived with it for awhile and then went with better speakers and a good amp (all Image Dynamics). The change from factory to to Kappas was significant. The change from Kappa to Image Dynamics was at least as significant. Now I'm happy.

I'm running a four channel I.D. Q 450.4 amp. One channel goes to each door. In the door is a 6.5 component set with the woofer in the lower location and the tweeter in the upper location. The crossover for these components is in the door armrest. I had to take it out of its case, but that was easy.

If your Kickers are separate 4" and 6.5" speakers, instead of one 2-way component set, you need to determine whether one channel of your amp is enough to power both. You may need to run two channels into each door.

 

http://bcae1.com/

Scroll on the right side down to 16 (Wires)

The first picture/calculator is a speaker wire calculator based on power, length, ohm of speaker, and gauge. It will tell you how many amps the wire can carry (and power), estimated resistance, etc.

It will also give you an error on the bottom if you use to small of a wire, or too long of a run.

 

What is the kicker's model no.?
I would consider buying a 4 channel amp anyway, in case you will want to upgrade the rear speakers in the future.
If you upgrade the wiring and install an amp, you will have to dismantle the rear anyway.

 

Thanks Robin & BXR!! You've been very helpful. I'll go with a 4 channel amp. I have the Kicker KS5250 & KS350. I don't use the 6x9's in the back anyways.

 

Thanks to both Robin and el_chupo for the info - now the only information I am missing to figure all this out is the gauge of the factory speaker wire and the length of the run. Based on Robin's experience, I am going to estimate 20 feet per run for a total of 80 feet of speaker wire. I think that is probably more than enough. Even using 20 feet and playing around with the speaker wire calculator, there appears to be some scenarios where remaining with the factory wire (assuming it is between 18 and 22 gauge) will work, and others where I would need to run new wire. It changes a lot based on plugging in 18, 20 or 22 gauge wire into the calculator, so if anyone knows the factory speaker wire gauge, I could plug that number in and put this first decision to rest in the audio upgrade saga.

 

Those are pretty small at 5.5" and 3.5". Most people use 6.5" and 4" speakers. You may have to make an adaptor plate for each.

If you are going for an amp, why those speakers? They wont handle much power. Seems like they would be more suited for a speaker swap without the amp.

 

From looking at it, my guess is that the factory wire is 30 gauge.

Your amp will be in a different location than mine, so get out a tape measure and figure out where you will run the wires.

 

How did you run the new wiring into the door? Did you drill in?

I used another method to run two sets of wires to the doors using a flat Nordost cable in the door connector.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...34-post17.html

 

Just finished my install on Monday night - thanks to all here on NAM for the superb information

I went for the new HK speakers all round except for the rear tweeters.
I have factory Hifi and wow what a difference, there is real bass now and superb response.
Easy to swap out as they all use standard plugs and fit into stock mounting holes.

 

I don't know what everyone is having issues with on crossovers. Inside the arm rest is huge!
Just got a Pioneer separate setup. 6 3/4 mains and tweets. Fit fine. I need to make a small plate to mount the tweet where the mid was. Easy. Actually, this looks like the easiest car I have ever had to put speakers in.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ter-plate.html


Use this thread for a template, if you wish to prepare in advance.

 

Just installed JL Audio TR400-CXi($70) and TR650-CSi($100) on my front doors.(My MC clubman is non-hifi)

Loved them so much. Tweeter makes huge difference.
TR400-CXi has a tweeter in the center and you don't need to put them on A-pillar. Just took 30 mins for each TR400-CXi installation. No additional wire or holes.

For TR650-CSi, I just installed woofers without the tweeter. They work ok, but installation was little tricky. Additional wiring and screw holes. Took 3 hours.

If you like to spend less than $100 for speaker upgrade(non-hifi), JL Audio TR400-CXi is the best choice. Easy installation!!!

I love this thread.
Thanks.

 

Hey guys, I have been banging my head trying to get all the info i need for a new speaker set.

I purchased 3 pairs of infinity speakers (6x9, 5.25, 3.5, all 2ohm) and a 300W alpine 4 channel amp (supports 2 and 4 ohm loads).

Now here's what I'm wondering:

Can I hook the 3.5" and 5.25" together in series to produce a 4ohm load in the front speakers (via 2 channels), and just run the 6x9s on their own 2 channels in the rear at 2ohms?

your input is much appreciated!

 

BUMP

 

With the help of those who went before me in this forum (many thanks to all), I replaced the awful front speakers in my new 2010 convertible, and it made an amazing difference. I got brave enough to try the back speakers this weekend, and when I got the back panel off, was shocked to see 6.5" speakers mounted in a raised plastic shell (riveted in, no less) where I expected to find 6x9s.. Tried to find a way to un-rivet the awful stock speakers so that I could at least put in better 6.5"s, but gave up after 30 minutes and a beer.

It still sounds better than it did when it rolled off the lot - after only $150 of speakers in the front. Will have to be good enough.