Hi All,

Unfortunately, I have to replace my current interconnects due to one of them disconnecting somewhere in the middle (old wires). I've been plagued with minor alternator noise, of which most is cancelled with a ground loop isolator. My question is twofold. First, is the extra money worth it to buy a set of Streetwire noise cancelling interconnects? Second, are the twisted pair stereo wires better than your run of the mill straight ones?

Since I'll need to remove all the rear panelling (not looking forward to it) again to replace the interconnects, I may replace the stereo wires as well if the twisted pair are a better solution for a cleaner signal or less prone to alternator whine.

I remember reading about a drains but never fully understood how they worked or what I needed to make one. Basically, since I need to rip the car apart again, I'd just assume eliminate all the engine noise I can

Thanks in advance,

Jay

 

Bump. No one has any opinion on Streetwires RCAs? I'm trying to find out if they are worth the extra cost (with regards to reduced engine noise).

 

What is your current a/v set up in your mini? MCS or MC? Also detail if you could, where and how you grounded amp, hu, and whatever else you have.

I really like my streetwires rcas. But depending on your current set up they may be a diminishing return for you. I hope that I'll be able to help you out!!

 

I've got a MCS. The setup is:

Pineer Premier HU (DEH-P650)
Polk MMC 6500 components in the front
Polk MMC 6 x 9s in the rear
Polk MMC 10" sub
Rockford Fosgate 400.4 amp (4 x 50watts RMS)
Alpine 400 watt mono amp (model # escapes me)

The interconnects and stereo wires run down the passenger side of the car, along with the remote turn on. I originally made the mistake of grounding both amps to the same ground as the battery, but I'll be fixing that when I replace the RCAs. Both amps are mounted in a box with the sub (and sit about 3 inches above the boot floor).

Currently I have a ground loop isolator plugged in between the HU and the rear speaker RCA line.

 

Just for a test. I would suggest a new ground for your amps before you replace your rca's. Also make sure your grounds are the same gauge or higher than your power cable. (I'm sure you already knew that though) I'm guessing that the noise is mostly due to the ground and not the RCA's. Give it a try and let us know if it solves the problem.

Edit: BTW Nice system.. I really like the new Polk SR6500 comps have you seen those yet (homer simpson voice) mmmmmmm..Ring radiator tweeter

 

I pulled the HU over the weekend, and swapped the front and rear RCAs around. Unfortunately, one of the RCAs definitely has a break somewhere in the line. When I swapped them around, the rear left speaker that kept cutting out, became the front left speakers once the RCAs were swapped around.

I went down to the local car audio shop and bought a pair of Rockford Fosgate Power Twisted RCAs. I figured I might as well replace both sets of cables to the 4 channel and see if they helped with the noise issues. One thing I noticed is that the cables don't use a drain, but according to the owner of the audio store, he didn't carry any cables that still had one.

I didn't have time to tear the car apart, so I just ran the RCA from the HU to the amp over the seats. Result was some minor noise when not using the ground loop isolator, and really, really bad whine with it plugged in. Weird, no?

I didn't get a chance to redo the ground, since I was limited on time, but I'll see if that remedies the whine I get with the new RCAs. My plan is to take care of the ground sometime during the week, or at the latest, over the weekend.

 

I'd planned to use this ground, as it seemed convenient. I guess since I always had amps in the trunk and a battery up front I was never faced with this opportunity/problem before.

What's th issue with sharing the grounds?

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...0&postcount=39

The above is where I found out that i's bad to use the battery ground

 

Here's the problem as I understand it. The battery in a "normal car" is located up front with the alternator. Most companies use the same grounding point for the alt and the batt. More than likely on the block somewhere, then to a spot on the frame.

Our MCS which has the batt in the boot, has the batt grounded to the frame and the alt is grounded up front to the block. This does cause a difference in flow of the front ground vs the rear ground. (hope that makes sense)

In a truly perfect world we would just run a 4g ground wire from the neg batt terminal to the common ground of the alt. As we all know that is a "PITA". So we have to resort to using drains or other type of devices. One of the best solutions I have is that I ground the headunit with the Amps. OR worst case is I use one of these: http://www.davidnavone.com/filters.html

DM

 

Interesting.

So you'd run a ground wire all the way to the back with the remote turn-on lead? Then could I use the factory ground point? Does that ground have to be run on the opposite side of the car from the signal cables?

 

Yup on the hu ground wire. Do not use the batts ground or you'll have noise. I have mine on the far right side of the boot (facing it) in the frame. make sure you grind of all the paint and other %$^& off the frame before you make your ground you want as much metal to metal contact as possible. Also use a good quality ring connector!! You might want to think about a ground distibution block too. Of course that depends on how many points need grounding.

Also Mark it shoud be noted that if I was just doing a simple hu install i'd just buy one of the before mentioned filters and be done with it. Running all these wires for a simple operation would be complete BS.

I usually run my power/ground on the left, signal middle, speakers on the right if facing the boot from the rear. You should be fine if you run it with the rca's, given that they are of good quality.

hope this helps...
DM