After doing exhaustive research into which speakers would be the best as drop-in replacements into the factory (non-HK) system, without further modification (ie: amplifying), in the interest of a "moderate", inexpensive upgrade in sound quality, the conclusion is what no one wants to hear: The Winner Is...NO ONE! In other words, don't even bother...it's not worth your time, not to mention the cost (unless you're replacing the stockers because they're damaged or blown). I've been round and round with Crutchfield, and I never did get any real answer out of them, as to which speakers alone would be right. Eventually, the realization is that there IS no answer! (And, credit goes to them for not BS-ing me.) The lesson to be learned is that just replacing the speakers, without amping them, will yield absolutely zero benefit, and if you're not careful in your speaker selection, you will actually decrease sound quality. So, if anyone is going to do speakers, do it right and get--even a modest--amp...OR DON'T DO IT AT ALL.

I realize that very few people will ever take this advice at face value...it's one of those hard-to-believe things that you have to just prove for yourself (hopefully BEFORE you make any costly mistakes). But, when you eventually find for yourself that you're essentially spinning your wheels, like the computer in that old movie, "War Games"...trying to win at Tic-Tac-Toe, don't say that no one tried to warn you.

 

So...did you actually TRY any?

 

Good Question!

 

The quick answer is NO. The point I'm making is, I tried to learn from those who did, BEFORE I wasted money trying! And, I thought that maybe others might benefit from my research (or at least it might be worthwhile to just be aware of it). I spent hours searching for any positive reviews of direct speaker swaps. I've found it to be typical internet nature for those who've found success to readily post...almost bragging, about what they did; and conversely, for those who either wasted their time/money--or actually failed at their objective outright--to simply remain silent (out of frustration, embarrassment, ...whatever). Along these lines, in my search, the silence was deafening, and to me, very revealing...I found almost no reviews either way. I'm sure many many people have tried it...afterall, it's the most common simple car-audio upgrade. I'm convinced that virtually none of them are happy with the results. (I'm still goading for anyone who can tell me otherwise.)

My only question now is, should I spring for the DPSM, or spend about a third of that cost for a similar system of my own construction...?

 

I replaced my speakers at first without an amp and YES they did sound better than the stock speakers.

I was happy with the results considering I wasn't running an amp at the time.

However I did realize an amp would make them sound even better as we all know.

I now have different front speakers and two amps along with a sub.

You can stop goading now.

 

I have found this to be true in almost every car I have ever owned. Replacing speakers alone, or even replacing both speakers and head unit without an amp is a waste of money. The sound quality does not improve.

This is just my own experience though, so take it for what it is worth. I always find that the biggest loss in sound in aftermarket speakers are the lows too, so it could be that the mids and highs are sounding better, but without the lows in there it sounds off... So maybe you can add a sub instead of amping the speakers, but either way an amp will be part of the solution.

 

That's funny that you mentioned that Crutchfield wouldn't recommend speakers for you. They recommended Polk db6501 for the doors and Polk db651s for the rears.

 

Hmm, I just replaced my Boost HU with an Alpine. The system sounds better. Is it the additional power, better signal processing? I don't know which aspect is driving the change.

And I'll let the OP know if there is a sound improvement when I replace my door speakers with HAT Imagine components. It just really seems odd to claim that aftermarket speakers make no difference from OEM without adding an amp without any reference to listening to speakers. I'm not saying an amp will not bring speakers to life, but the OPs claim and substantiation are wanting.

 

I think the head unit is the weak link in the stock stereo and not the speakers.

I also replaced my head unit (I went with a Pioneer) and noticed an instant improvement in the sound from the stock speakers.

Again, in my experience, if I were to now replace the factory speakers with aftermarket speakers, there would be a loss in sound range if I don't use an amp. I dont know if the stock 6x9s are just made for bass or what, but everytime I replace both the head unit and the speakers, the sound sounds crisp in the mid to high ranges, but weak on the low end. It's not that I change the settings on the equalizer, or lowered the loudness or bass setting, it just seems like the speakers need more power to get the full range.

The added punch that an aftermarket head unit provides is dollar for dollar the best upgrade you can do for your sound system if you aren't going to add an amp. That's just my two cents.

 

I hope you're not right because I am expecting more from the speaker change than the HU change. But at the same time I intend on sound deadening the doors so maybe thats cheating for a speaker-speaker comparison.

Sound quality can be very subjective, so that complicates the matter further. I hope that changing the speakers will be good enough for me. Adding an amp is a level of work I'm not yet comfortable to do.

 

I'm sorry I can't substantiate my research with my own experience. I was mostly just venting my frustration that there seems to be no easy way out with our stock system. Like mentioned above, this would be true in almost any car. And, I DO have experiece in this matter in previous vehicles I've owned (and the same still held true then).

Most aftermarket head units do generate more power by themselves than the stock MINI Boost unit, which is apparently only capable of about 5 watts rms/channel. While their claims are usually grossly exaggerated, typical aftermarket head unit power these days is about 18~20 watts rms. That's still a big difference from the MINI unit, and it's barely enough to make only the most sensative aftermarket speakers start to sound good. Obviously, it would also make the stock speakers sound better too, as mentioned above.

However, when it comes to replacing head units, personal taste plays a bigger role than anything else. I personally have no interest at all in replacing the Boost unit in my car, because I feel that no aftermarket unit can match the interior as well as the stock unit does (and I find that most of them actually look hideous, what with their goofy ghetto blue lighting and cheesey graphics...). In fact, I actually have a Nakamichi CD400 sitting in my basement, which is hands down the most stock-looking, understated, tasteful-looking aftermarket unit money can buy, but I still don't think it would look quite right in the MINI. (Also, because it doesn't support satellite radio or MP3...although it does have an aux-in.)

 

I'm not sure about the specs on the DPSM, I've never heard of it. But I think you should do it yourself. New head unit, components up front, 6x9's rear, and a sub with all speakers powered off a single amp and a sub with it's own amp will treat you right. In my opinion there is no such thing as an easy solution for car audio. If you want sound quality, do it all or don't waste your time. I've never wanted my car to sound better, I've NEEDED it to sound better. I can't stand no bass fill, crackling highs, and low volumes.

I agree that speakers will not make a noticable change without at least a head unit change unless your speakers are blown. Fresh speakers on a stock system is like your girlfriend getting her ***** done one at a time. It might be a little better, but it just ain't right.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

LOL!!! I love the analogy!

 

My stock speakers distorted big time at any heavy bass beyond low volume since the car came home me. I originally planned to purchase an after market stereo when finances recoverd but I found out that I couldn't keep the steering wheel controls without spending an arm and a leg. I replaced the rear speakers with Kicker 6.5"s and the sound is a great improvement. No distortion except when fully cranked. It made a difference for me!

 

I think I spent an extra $40 on the PAC steering wheel control adapter... Works just like the stock controls...

 

Yea, the difference there is that your speakers were blown, and then you got new ones. This thread is saying that if you replace fully functional stockers with aftermarket speakers, you won't hear a difference (without amp, head unit, etc.)

 

Factory audio systems are usually sub-par compared what is offered aftermarket. A stock hu usually puts out about 5w per channel. Changing just the hu makes a huge difference with sound just by how clear and more powerful the signal is. Changing just the speakers would help a ton, and combined with changing out the hu the user would see a dramatic difference.

More watts you have the louder you can get before getting distortion. With that said, there are limits to each piece of the sound system: hu, speaker wires, amp (or lack of), speakers. Factory is usually rated very low, and the factory hu will not send out a flat sound curve in order to make the sub-par speakers sound better.

For better sound, hu and possibly speakers, given your budget. If you want louder, then amp. Need more kick, add a sub. Just my 0.02.

 

I replaced my front speakers with the Polk db6501 components, and although
the they are not significantly louder (perhaps a smidge louder than oem),
the sound quality is better.
If you replace speakers without upgrading the hu or adding an amp, you
should make sure you don't go with speakers that are noticeably less efficient
than the oems, or you won't be happy with the drop in volume.

 

efficiency must be the key, because I have found in the past that if I upgrade both the HU and the speakers, there is actually a drop-off in performance without an amp over the stock speakers...

What should one look for in terms of "stats" of speakers to know which ones are efficient enough to be an upgrade without the need for an amp right away? I want to eventually add an amp, but don't have the cash flow right now...

 

Sensitivity is the number you're looking at for efficiency. I'll try to post more on this later unless someone beats me to it.

 

Sensitivity is the sound pressure level (SPL) of the speaker when driven
with 1 watt of full spectrum noise at a distance of 1 meter from the speaker.
For a 4 ohm speaker that's an input of 2 volts. It's 2.83 volts for home stereo
speakers, which are usually 8 ohms. Some car speakers are 2 ohms which
can sometimes be a problem for a head unit designed for a 4 ohm load.
Look for a sensitivity of about 92 or 93 db in a 4 ohm speaker and you'll do ok.

 

Glad this thread is finally going somewhere. I'm encouraged to see that the Polks alone actually do make a noticeable improvement. I think the key with this kind of speakers-only upgrade is to just not expect too much of from it to begin with...and hope to be (very modestly) satisfied.

I wish there was a plug-n-play "power booster", that you could easily plug into the stock radio harness, that would bump the 4 channels up to, say, a modest 20 watts rms. Alpine actually makes such a device, called the "Power Pack", for their aftermarket head units. ...Perfect for someone looking for a modest upgrade, but is not willing to go "all-out" on rewiring their entire system to facilitate an outboard amplifier. Of course, it's NOT compatible with our stock Alpine-made head units!

 

Right on Cristo.

I suppose I'll jump on the bus of "speakers alone do make a difference" and stop holding all stereos to my personal (probably high) standards. Of the speakers offered from Crutchfield.com, I would have to suggest either the Polk db5251 or db6501. Polk has the best Sensitivity, 93db (5251) and 92db (6501), and the best frequency range. You really only have to worry about the low-end range, because everyone can go to 20 kHz on the high end. 53Hz is the low for the 5251 and 35Hz is the low for the 6501. Larger diameter speakers give you a lower frequency range, meaning "more bass". "More bass" meaning the speakers are capable of playing a larger variety (lower frequency values) of bass tones. It does not mean the bass will be louder, you will just be able to hear more of what the artist intended. The 6.5", AKA the 6501's would be my choice here. They are also a decent choice that will allow you to add an amp later if you get the itch.

A side note on tweeters...Aluminum tweeters will give you a louder, but harsher sound at high frequencies, where silk is not so harsh. The Polk's use a silk composite. There may be even better options than silk out there now, but I haven't looked in a while.

The other options from Crutchfield will really NOT give you much difference from stock as their sensitivities are closer to 87 or 88 decibels (they also have a worse frequency range).

I'm not saying the Polk's are the best out there, but they are the best from Crutchfield. It all comes down to the bang-for-the-buck value, where bang depends on the listener's ear.

 

Aside from sensitivity ratings, I would have to warn against making speaker suggestions based on specs and numbers. It is possible for some truely horrible-sounding speakers to actually have respectable specs, and vice-versa. Having said that, the specs can usually steer you away from the worst speakers, but ironically do very little to steer you toward the best sounding speakers. What complicates matters even more is the fact that everybody's ears and preferences are different... In the end, the only real way is to "audition" them for yourself.

PS: Infinity Reference (front components; rear coaxials) are also sold by Crutch, and also have high sensitivity ratings. They're similarly priced and are of similar construction as the Polk DBs. I was told that the Infinitys sound "brighter" than the Polks, and have less bass (assuming comparison with low-power systems). Again, it's a matter of preference... If "brighter" means "crisper" to you, and you don't mind some loss of bass, then this might be a good thing. But, if "brighter" means "harsh" or "shrill", and you like a "warmer" "richer" sound with more mid-bass, then I guess the Infinitys might not be the best choice.

 

Well said ellcapitan

About the Infinity Reference though...The 5 1/4 are the only ones that will fit our cars. They do offer a 93db sensitivity, but their low-end is 67Hz, which loses a lot of bass response. Also, they cannot handle as much power, 75W max RMS, but this is less of an issue since most here don't want to amp them. And I don't know how much difference you would hear with 25W more from the Polks... Anyway, just some food for thought.