Navigation & Audio SPEAKERS: And The Winner Is...
On my MINI 2010, I removed the OEM speakers and replaced the front speakers with Boston Acoustics pro60SE's, and the rear with Boston Acoustics SC60's. Everything sounds fantastic.
Unlike the OP, I'd highly recommend replacing the speakers if you have the money.
I'll most likely be posting my whole experience with some pictures within a week.
Unlike the OP, I'd highly recommend replacing the speakers if you have the money.
I'll most likely be posting my whole experience with some pictures within a week.
I have a nice Alpine head unit, Alpine AMP, Klipsch Kappa series, 8" kicker sub with custom box.
I'll have to post a picture of where the amp and sub is mounted. I work at Best Buy so the guys in the garage do a good job with my audio stuff
Both the amp and sub are in the hatch area but take up no actual packing space, which is really really nice.
I'll have to post a picture of where the amp and sub is mounted. I work at Best Buy so the guys in the garage do a good job with my audio stuff

Both the amp and sub are in the hatch area but take up no actual packing space, which is really really nice.
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Alpine CDA-9831 AM, FM, CD, SAT Radio, MP3 Receiver[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Alpine CHA-S634 6 Disc CD Changer with Remote Control[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 450.4 450 Watt 4 Channel Amplifier[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 401S 400 Watt 1 Channel Amplifier [/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 1 Farad Capacitor[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 6” x 9” 4 way Speakers [/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5” 3 way Speakers[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 1” Tweeters [/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 8” Subwoofers (2)[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Power Distribution Block[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Alpine CHA-S634 6 Disc CD Changer with Remote Control[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 450.4 450 Watt 4 Channel Amplifier[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 401S 400 Watt 1 Channel Amplifier [/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 1 Farad Capacitor[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 6” x 9” 4 way Speakers [/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5” 3 way Speakers[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 1” Tweeters [/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Punch 8” Subwoofers (2)[/FONT]
[FONT='Arial','sans-serif']Rockford Fosgate Power Distribution Block[/FONT]
I'm of the opinion that if you've got a decent car stereo, like the HK unit in the Mini, there's not a whole lot of point upgrading. (This coming from a used-to-be, dyed-in-the-wool stereo nut.) The environment in just about any care is lousy for a quality audio system anyway, so why waste the money putting in something that's really only there just to sound louder. If I really want to listen to some tunes and hear them right, I'll do it at home or with a set of quality headphones.
HK is fine with me.
HK is fine with me.
First of all, congratulations! You beat the odds and were cured of, what sounds like, a would-be terminal case of audiofile-ism.
But, I'm still surprised you dismiss amplification--whether it be in a car or anywhere else--as a "waste of money...to sound louder". You should know better than most that good clean amplification, in the hands of the high-fi user, is for added clarity and range. Higher volume is simply not the priority (unless you drive a convertible, where your main objective would be just to hear the music at all...then I agree anyway, anything considered "high-fi" or otherwise expensive would be kinda wasteful).
I agree that a car (a MINI, anyway) is not a great platform for an audio system, but that doesn't mean that a stock system can't, or shouldn't be vastly improved upon. Also, while I disagree that a MINI HK system should be considered "decent" by any means (also surprising), I'll admit that if my car had that system, I likely would not have upgraded to aftermarket.
But, I'm still surprised you dismiss amplification--whether it be in a car or anywhere else--as a "waste of money...to sound louder". You should know better than most that good clean amplification, in the hands of the high-fi user, is for added clarity and range. Higher volume is simply not the priority (unless you drive a convertible, where your main objective would be just to hear the music at all...then I agree anyway, anything considered "high-fi" or otherwise expensive would be kinda wasteful).
I agree that a car (a MINI, anyway) is not a great platform for an audio system, but that doesn't mean that a stock system can't, or shouldn't be vastly improved upon. Also, while I disagree that a MINI HK system should be considered "decent" by any means (also surprising), I'll admit that if my car had that system, I likely would not have upgraded to aftermarket.
Last edited by ellcapitan; Feb 9, 2011 at 09:12 AM.
Point made......But seriously, I can see upgrading the stock system, but for all intents and purposes, upgrading an HK system is a waste of money. (IMHO) I've spent big bucks on car stereo systems before and found marginal improvements in the sound compared to the money spent. And then you're still left with road noise, wind noise, lousy acoustics, compromised speaker placement, etc., etc. I've now come to a point in my life where I realize that puting a high end sound system in a car is like trying to make meatloaf out of a turd. No matter how much time and effort you put into preparing and cooking it, it's still just a fancy turd. I'd much rather spend the money and time on other things in my life.
I will admit, though, that I did install an iPod adapter so I can control it though the head unit. But the rest of it is just regular HK.
A sub can definitely be installed without changing out the head unit. I've got Integral Audio's enclosure in my R56 and have worked pretty closely with Kevin over the past year.
You can go HERE for more info and Kevin chimes in towards the end of the post (page 2 or 3) - I'm sure he would answer any questions you have. Good luck!
You can go HERE for more info and Kevin chimes in towards the end of the post (page 2 or 3) - I'm sure he would answer any questions you have. Good luck!
you can get a line converter to pull bass off the rear speakers. thats what i did and it sounds great.
Interesting discussion. Let me share my experience. I upgraded the front speakers on my 2011 R57 MCSC with Polk DB6501s about three months ago. That MINI has the base audio. There was a noticible improvement in sound quality. Note that the R57 Vert does not have 6x9's in the back seat, Openings are the same size as the larger openings in the front. So I did not upgrade the rear speakers. My fade is set to 100% front. Sound level is about the same as with factory speakers. Bass is disappointing but that is no great surprise. On the other hand, we're talking a $130 upgrade.
Two packages arrived today, one from Amazon and the other from Crutchfield. The Amazon box should have another set of DB6501s as well as a pair of Polk DB691s. The Crutchfield box should include a JVC KD-A725 head unit, and an Alpine MRP F300 4-channel amp. All are aimed at upgrading the sound system in my 2005 R53 MCS, which also has base audio.
I hadn't decided on the order to do the upgrades. But after reading this thread, I'll do the speakers first then test with the factory head unit. Then I'll upgrade the head unit and test without the booster amp. Then I'll add the booster amp and retest. I'll share the results with you. I also have an 8" sub and a sub amp left over from another install. If I'm not happy with bass response. I'll add the sub as part of my rear seat delete project.
From a cost standpoint, the Polks DB6501s and DB691s ran about $200. The JVC was another $180 plus $50 for the Bluetooth adaptor. The Alpine was $199. The steering wheel control adaptor box was $70. Total upgrade cost will run around $700 plus cables. I don't recall what I paid for the sub or the sub amp.
Tom
Two packages arrived today, one from Amazon and the other from Crutchfield. The Amazon box should have another set of DB6501s as well as a pair of Polk DB691s. The Crutchfield box should include a JVC KD-A725 head unit, and an Alpine MRP F300 4-channel amp. All are aimed at upgrading the sound system in my 2005 R53 MCS, which also has base audio.
I hadn't decided on the order to do the upgrades. But after reading this thread, I'll do the speakers first then test with the factory head unit. Then I'll upgrade the head unit and test without the booster amp. Then I'll add the booster amp and retest. I'll share the results with you. I also have an 8" sub and a sub amp left over from another install. If I'm not happy with bass response. I'll add the sub as part of my rear seat delete project.
From a cost standpoint, the Polks DB6501s and DB691s ran about $200. The JVC was another $180 plus $50 for the Bluetooth adaptor. The Alpine was $199. The steering wheel control adaptor box was $70. Total upgrade cost will run around $700 plus cables. I don't recall what I paid for the sub or the sub amp.
Tom
After doing exhaustive research into which speakers would be the best as drop-in replacements into the factory (non-HK) system, without further modification (ie: amplifying), in the interest of a "moderate", inexpensive upgrade in sound quality, the conclusion is what no one wants to hear: The Winner Is...NO ONE!

As the stock speakers went dead a year or more ago, a real comparison will be difficult, but now that both Pioneers are installed I will try the same piece of music in my car as compared to in my wife's '03 with the stock speakers.
Val
Does anyone know the impedance of the 2010 base Boost stereo ? Specifically output and impedance. I am trying to determine if I can drive some Polk MM 6501 which have a 2.7 ohm impedance and a 94 db sensitivity ? Thanks for you help.
4X6 Speakers are a poor choice
Seriously- you don't think the speakers on the right (Pioneer 4x6 speakers installed in the front door- see "Upgrading your stock stereo" thread for details) will sound better than the stock speakers on the left? As an electronics hobbyist and technician for 30+ years, my eyes and ears respectfully disagree with you.

As the stock speakers went dead a year or more ago, a real comparison will be difficult, but now that both Pioneers are installed I will try the same piece of music in my car as compared to in my wife's '03 with the stock speakers.
Val

As the stock speakers went dead a year or more ago, a real comparison will be difficult, but now that both Pioneers are installed I will try the same piece of music in my car as compared to in my wife's '03 with the stock speakers.
Val
4x6 speakers due to the nature of their shape and small cone size suck.
They will rarely make any improvement unless your existing 4x6 speakers are damaged. go with a 6 1/2 inch or better if you can fit it.
As a person who has worked in car audio before my typical upgrade is just to replace the head unit to a high power double din radio and that usually satisfies my need for more power and I don't have to fuss with mounting amps, etc.
As a 30+ year electronics hobbyist technician and car audio installer I have to chime in here.
4x6 speakers due to the nature of their shape and small cone size suck.
They will rarely make any improvement unless your existing 4x6 speakers are damaged. go with a 6 1/2 inch or better if you can fit it.
4x6 speakers due to the nature of their shape and small cone size suck.
They will rarely make any improvement unless your existing 4x6 speakers are damaged. go with a 6 1/2 inch or better if you can fit it.
Val
And yet it has been done and effectively -
Personally, I am about to install Morel Maximo 5 components. Yeah I know this does mean a minor modification to both doors to install the tweeters but they are easily surface mounted with just a small hole for the wires.
The old 3.5 mid will be removed and holes sealed with Noico 80 mil sound deadening - also used to help deaden the door and door panel.
A guy on YouTube did this to his SUV with stock head unit on it sounds INCREDIBLE. That finally convinced me that it is totally do-able and i am sick of the crap sound in my R56 s - that i've owned since 2008.
i had a serious Morel setup in my old Chevy Blazer and their tweeter detail and separation is astonishing. But that won't be apples to apples as this time I'm not putting in a new head unit and amp. Regardless, I'll finally have good sound again - i'll update in a new post once the work is done.
Personally, I am about to install Morel Maximo 5 components. Yeah I know this does mean a minor modification to both doors to install the tweeters but they are easily surface mounted with just a small hole for the wires.
The old 3.5 mid will be removed and holes sealed with Noico 80 mil sound deadening - also used to help deaden the door and door panel.
A guy on YouTube did this to his SUV with stock head unit on it sounds INCREDIBLE. That finally convinced me that it is totally do-able and i am sick of the crap sound in my R56 s - that i've owned since 2008.
i had a serious Morel setup in my old Chevy Blazer and their tweeter detail and separation is astonishing. But that won't be apples to apples as this time I'm not putting in a new head unit and amp. Regardless, I'll finally have good sound again - i'll update in a new post once the work is done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TunedGP
MINI Parts for Sale
1
Oct 1, 2015 04:18 PM





