Navigation & Audio Boss Audio BASS600 8-inch low profile amplified subwoofer
In an earlier post, I incorrectly said that Robin had done some research on the power requirements for the sub. I realize now it was probably you that did this - my apologies.
Anyone who used wire taps at the X9331 connector - did you find the red ones (22-18 gauge) or blue ones worked better (18-14 gauge) - I'm starting to get my parts list ready...
I used the blue ones without issue
Loom Pictures
As promised here are the pictures of the loom I built using the factory ordered parts. I'll probably shorten the 4 wires that go directly between the two main connectors. The smaller molex connectors I am using for the radio->amp and amp->speakers bypass. I'll put the other ends on the wires going back to the amps so it's easy to quick disconnect everything if I ever needs to sell or pull the amp.
PS: Does anyone knoe for sure what gauge the large brown wire and the large white wire are? Are they 14 or 12? If it's 12 I will probably have to cut two of those wires and solder on 12's instead of the 14s you see below (I haven't opened up the connector on the car since I got the loom parts, it's on the todo list for Saturday).




PS: Does anyone knoe for sure what gauge the large brown wire and the large white wire are? Are they 14 or 12? If it's 12 I will probably have to cut two of those wires and solder on 12's instead of the 14s you see below (I haven't opened up the connector on the car since I got the loom parts, it's on the todo list for Saturday).




I'd say definitely shorten the wires between the two connectors as much as practical.
An advantage of doing that -- the difference in resistance between equal (short) lengths of 16 and 14 gauge wire is very low, very difficult to measure without specialized equipment, and is most likely less than the resistance introduced by the molex connectors!
I wouldn't worry about it. (If you'd spliced in a piece of #24, I'd worry!)
Cheers--
An advantage of doing that -- the difference in resistance between equal (short) lengths of 16 and 14 gauge wire is very low, very difficult to measure without specialized equipment, and is most likely less than the resistance introduced by the molex connectors!
I wouldn't worry about it. (If you'd spliced in a piece of #24, I'd worry!)
Cheers--
I'd say definitely shorten the wires between the two connectors as much as practical.
An advantage of doing that -- the difference in resistance between equal (short) lengths of 16 and 14 gauge wire is very low, very difficult to measure without specialized equipment, and is most likely less than the resistance introduced by the molex connectors!
I wouldn't worry about it. (If you'd spliced in a piece of #24, I'd worry!)
Cheers--
An advantage of doing that -- the difference in resistance between equal (short) lengths of 16 and 14 gauge wire is very low, very difficult to measure without specialized equipment, and is most likely less than the resistance introduced by the molex connectors!
I wouldn't worry about it. (If you'd spliced in a piece of #24, I'd worry!)
Cheers--
Greg
The brown one is a ground. Pretty safe.
The white wire (digging through the WDS site) may be an important one -- it goes from X10318 and the A149a car access system box (pin 22) to X2498 under the hood. At X10318 it's labeled "Starter." Might be important.
Cheers--
The white wire (digging through the WDS site) may be an important one -- it goes from X10318 and the A149a car access system box (pin 22) to X2498 under the hood. At X10318 it's labeled "Starter." Might be important.
Cheers--
Good work, OmniDynmc. It would have been nice to have this instead of cutting up wires. I did a little digging on the X9331 connector and found that even though the molex connector was in their (molex) catalog, it was not orderable. It did not occur to me that you could just order it from BMW. Maybe some enterprising person would be able to get a bunch of these manufactured to sell to the Mini community...
As promised here are the pictures of the loom I built using the factory ordered parts. I'll probably shorten the 4 wires that go directly between the two main connectors. The smaller molex connectors I am using for the radio->amp and amp->speakers bypass. I'll put the other ends on the wires going back to the amps so it's easy to quick disconnect everything if I ever needs to sell or pull the amp.
PS: Does anyone knoe for sure what gauge the large brown wire and the large white wire are? Are they 14 or 12? If it's 12 I will probably have to cut two of those wires and solder on 12's instead of the 14s you see below (I haven't opened up the connector on the car since I got the loom parts, it's on the todo list for Saturday).
PS: Does anyone knoe for sure what gauge the large brown wire and the large white wire are? Are they 14 or 12? If it's 12 I will probably have to cut two of those wires and solder on 12's instead of the 14s you see below (I haven't opened up the connector on the car since I got the loom parts, it's on the todo list for Saturday).
Last edited by euells; Mar 30, 2009 at 09:42 AM.
The parts total with shipping cost about $70 unfortunately, and that was through ECS so it was half the cost of actually ordering it through BMW.
On a side note, I've got the loom installed and it works perfectly so I can verify first hand those parts fit the X9331 like a glove.
Greg
On a side note, I've got the loom installed and it works perfectly so I can verify first hand those parts fit the X9331 like a glove.
Greg
The parts total with shipping cost about $70 unfortunately, and that was through ECS so it was half the cost of actually ordering it through BMW.
On a side note, I've got the loom installed and it works perfectly so I can verify first hand those parts fit the X9331 like a glove.
Greg
On a side note, I've got the loom installed and it works perfectly so I can verify first hand those parts fit the X9331 like a glove.
Greg
Peace of mind for not having to cut into the factory wires: Priceless.

Greg
Excellent point - I even used taps to install my speakers so that the originals can go back in if I ever decide to sell or trade. Can you send me the ordering info (or just post it here)?
Greg
The part numbers are on page #4 in this thread and the company I got them from is ECS Tuning (www.ecstuning.com). Just make sure you call the number at the top and order the parts you need by phone, their shipping weight prices are off on the pins w/ wires already on them.
Greg
Greg
You won't be sorry!
I just test fitted the Boss Bass1200 - it's a perfect fit and I mean perfect. The back seat and the metal clasp on the rear part of the boot (bumper side) hold it in exactly the perfect spot.
I just need some good weather to do all this work!
I just need some good weather to do all this work!
We want pictures!


