I did use the twisted pairs together. I read somewhere that someone else had done this. However - the copper is too brittle - I broke it while replacing the x9331.

As far as the X10266, I haven't seen a diagram of this yet. It's really easy to run the cables down the trim under the door though and we know the x9331 works. It may be harder to wire under the seat.

 

Did you remove any panels in the rear to run the wire from the x9331? And what path did you choose to run the subwoofer control...take off the carpet?

 

The panel that the X9331 is behind is the same panel that runs below the door. There is a seat belt mount just behind the seat that holds it on which I did not remove. Working from the backseat, I used a trim tool to push the wires under this panel until I got to where the panel was loose enough to do this by hand.

The sub control cord appears to be an RJ11 phone cord, nice and flat and black. I ran that the same path, but took a right turn under the seat tracks. I found a spot where the connector just fit under (my rubber mat in the rear just covers it with the top edge) and then used the tool to pop under the console, I then took another right, down the console, around the drink holder, and found a spot on the opposite side that had about an 1/8" gap. I tucked all the extra cable there (it appeared to be a dead space cavity) then loosened the drink holder cover and brought the wire between the cover and the console to exactly where I mounted the control (with Velcro - one of NASA's greatest achievements!). Since the console is in a deep "U" shape, I bent the mounting "legs" on the control upward such that the angle matched that of the console, and applied the Velcro to each leg. I also placed a 1" piece of weatherstripping on the bottom of the control so it fits nicely down in the "U".

If I were you and I wanted to go under the passenger seat to the amp, I'd consider mounting the amp on the passenger's side. This has several advantages:I'd make sure before you start to either trace out the wiring or find someone who has. I'd hate to see you burn up two amps and a sub!

Good Luck - and let us know how it turns out - take pics!

 

The bass600 remote cable is 6 pin. Some of the really inexpensive crimp tools only do 4 pins...

One of the standards/compliance folks I work with starts to hyperventilate when people start using "RJ" terms for off-the-wall applications such as this.

The telco RJ standards identify not only the connector but wires, colours, and positions for registered applications; it is a "registered jack" after all. RJ25 is the 6 wire version, with RJ11 for the 2 wire version, and RJ14 for four wires, but a 6 connector jack can also be called RJ11.

RJ45 is the designation given to the 8 pin larger connector used for 802.3 Ethernet, and it's really T568A/T568B, but everyone (outside of a few weirdos) calls it RJ45.

(Too much caffeine too early in the morning!)

 

awesome thread.. i think i may invest in one... i want some bass baad

 

You won't be sorry...

 

nice. sounds simple enough. ive had a few systems in old cars and this seems incredibly easy..

tap the speakers up front (no hifi) tap the 12v rear and tap the remote into that... donezo right?

 

A little over simplified - but yes that is correct.

 

I'm waiting until spring but then I'm gonna give it a go w/ some new Infinity's up front!

 

I love my Infinity's and the SSL. This setup worked very nicely. Thanks to all who went before me and figured out exactly what to do.

 

did you go kappa or reference on the fronts?

 

I put Reference 6022si's in the lowers and 3022cf's in the uppers. Do you have Hifi? If so the Kappa component systems are probably your best choice.

 

how come you chose the 6022si's instead of 6022i?

I do have the hifi so why do you think the kappas are better? - I do plan on keeping the tweeters the way they are.....

I figured the reference were better b/c they are lower rms 60 vs 75 for the 6.5" - the db is very similar 93db (reference) vs 95db (kappa) - the kappa have a better frequency 45Hz - 25kHz as opposed to reference 53Hz - 21kHz

anyone feel free to chime in here -

I think I got a pretty good price for all 3 here. but if the masses recommend the kappa 42.9 and the kappa 62.9 for the hifi I can certainly go that route as well.

 

I went with the 6022si's on the recommendation of Crutchfield, who guaranteed a fit. The specs are identical, only the mounting depth differs. Are you sure the 4022's will fit? The 3022's fit nicely, and there was a little wiggle room, but not much. So you will just abandon the stock tweeters?

Prices look good to me - I did a little better, but not much and I ordered all of them from different vendors.

 

In the hifi the tweeters are on the A-pillars - Thats why I don't need to touch the tweeters. The only reason I was looking at onlinecarstereo is to avoid getting scammed from an online vendor selling fake speakers (ebay etc)

 

Understood - but if you leave them hooked up that will be three sets of tweeters in the front part of the car. If you love the highs, I guess that would be OK. The reference have adjustable tweeters - but only to boost the highs. That's why I asked about the components - I would think a woofer in the lowers, midrange in the uppers and a matched tweeter in the pillar would be ideal. I thought I read somewhere of a crossover in the HiFi system (not on the driver), but I could be wrong.

I used Crutchfield, Amazon and a local audio store, so none of mine are 'grey market' speakers.

 

That's true. I guess I'll have to just turn down the treble. It seems most people are happy replacing their speakers with the JL's or the infinity's?

 

I'm sure you'll be happy. Believe me, any aftermarket speaker is got to be an improvement over the cheap paper drivers that MINI provides.

 

Thanks! I needed simple instructions and this is perfect.

 

Now I get what you mean w/ the extra tweeters. The components come with the woofer separate from the tweeter...duh - Yeah maybe I'll grab the reference 6020cs or the kappa 60.9cs and then the 4022i (which will have a tweeter) but I would consider the kappa 42.9 for the other spot but they have a strange way of connecting the speaker wires which might cause a problem with the window - check this pic - they seem to have a tweeter anyway too and are an extra $40

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...0Kappa%2042.9i

 

The little boxes are external crossovers, They also have directional tweeters, which may work well in your case. Problem is - things get pretty tight in the door - I worry about where to mount the crossovers. Maybe you can see if others have installed them and how they did it.

Go here to see a video on them. Crutchfield may not be the cheapest guys around, but their service and support is excellent.

Also - I am by no means an expert on the HiFi, so you probably need to be talking to someone who has replaced their speakers in the HiFi. You could always install them and use trial and error. There is probably a place coming out of the amp that you can disconnect the pillar tweeters if needed.

 

I think you can do both High and Low level inputs - Robin did low and it worked while allmonb did high and it worked for him.

 

I used the x10266 connection at the factory hifi amp, and it worked just fine.
I used a line level converter to convert the high level(speaker level) output of the factory speakers to the low level(RCA) output to the amp.

I believe I tapped as follows:

brown/orange + right rear
Yellow/Red - right rear

Blue/brown + left rear
Blue/black - left rear

 

Do you have any pictures? I was thinking about tapping off there as well. I just need to find a diagram again of the pins again.

 

I used a chunk of cat5 cable in mine to run from x9331 to the boot. I used it mainly because it was at hand.

As with most deals, use of the proper tools makes things easier. I have a thermal wire stripper that works a treat and won't nick the cable.

Have fun!