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Navigation & Audio Boss Audio BASS600 8-inch low profile amplified subwoofer

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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #101  
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euells
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Originally Posted by OmniDynmc
Hope this post helps.... if there is any interest I'll take pictures of the finished loom and post them.
Please Do!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by k6rtm
But based on the measurements I've made, I can't figure a sound engineering reason to justify it.
k6rtm,

In an earlier post, I incorrectly said that Robin had done some research on the power requirements for the sub. I realize now it was probably you that did this - my apologies.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by OmniDynmc

Hope this post helps.... if there is any interest I'll take pictures of the finished loom and post them.
+1
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 05:12 PM
  #104  
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Anyone who used wire taps at the X9331 connector - did you find the red ones (22-18 gauge) or blue ones worked better (18-14 gauge) - I'm starting to get my parts list ready...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 05:30 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by toolazyforalogin
Anyone who used wire taps at the X9331 connector - did you find the red ones (22-18 gauge) or blue ones worked better (18-14 gauge) - I'm starting to get my parts list ready...
I used the blue ones without issue
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 07:33 PM
  #106  
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ok thanks euells
 
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Old Mar 12, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by toolazyforalogin
ok thanks euells
Make sure you take pictures!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 08:40 AM
  #108  
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Loom Pictures

As promised here are the pictures of the loom I built using the factory ordered parts. I'll probably shorten the 4 wires that go directly between the two main connectors. The smaller molex connectors I am using for the radio->amp and amp->speakers bypass. I'll put the other ends on the wires going back to the amps so it's easy to quick disconnect everything if I ever needs to sell or pull the amp.

PS: Does anyone knoe for sure what gauge the large brown wire and the large white wire are? Are they 14 or 12? If it's 12 I will probably have to cut two of those wires and solder on 12's instead of the 14s you see below (I haven't opened up the connector on the car since I got the loom parts, it's on the todo list for Saturday).

 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #109  
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I'd say definitely shorten the wires between the two connectors as much as practical.

An advantage of doing that -- the difference in resistance between equal (short) lengths of 16 and 14 gauge wire is very low, very difficult to measure without specialized equipment, and is most likely less than the resistance introduced by the molex connectors!

I wouldn't worry about it. (If you'd spliced in a piece of #24, I'd worry!)

Cheers--
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by k6rtm
I'd say definitely shorten the wires between the two connectors as much as practical.

An advantage of doing that -- the difference in resistance between equal (short) lengths of 16 and 14 gauge wire is very low, very difficult to measure without specialized equipment, and is most likely less than the resistance introduced by the molex connectors!

I wouldn't worry about it. (If you'd spliced in a piece of #24, I'd worry!)

Cheers--
I'm not too worried about the speaker leads of the connector and their size but rather the large white and brown wires that I'm guessing carry actual power or current to something. I can't tell if they are 12ga or 14ga... If they are 12ga then I'd like to try and match them to be safe... it'd be nice to know what they feed too.

Greg
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 11:40 AM
  #111  
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The brown one is a ground. Pretty safe.

The white wire (digging through the WDS site) may be an important one -- it goes from X10318 and the A149a car access system box (pin 22) to X2498 under the hood. At X10318 it's labeled "Starter." Might be important.

Cheers--
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 01:36 PM
  #112  
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Good work, OmniDynmc. It would have been nice to have this instead of cutting up wires. I did a little digging on the X9331 connector and found that even though the molex connector was in their (molex) catalog, it was not orderable. It did not occur to me that you could just order it from BMW. Maybe some enterprising person would be able to get a bunch of these manufactured to sell to the Mini community...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 07:33 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by OmniDynmc
As promised here are the pictures of the loom I built using the factory ordered parts. I'll probably shorten the 4 wires that go directly between the two main connectors. The smaller molex connectors I am using for the radio->amp and amp->speakers bypass. I'll put the other ends on the wires going back to the amps so it's easy to quick disconnect everything if I ever needs to sell or pull the amp.

PS: Does anyone knoe for sure what gauge the large brown wire and the large white wire are? Are they 14 or 12? If it's 12 I will probably have to cut two of those wires and solder on 12's instead of the 14s you see below (I haven't opened up the connector on the car since I got the loom parts, it's on the todo list for Saturday).
So what did the parts cost? I may be interested in making one.
 

Last edited by euells; Mar 30, 2009 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 11:38 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by euells
So what did the parts cost? I may be interested in making one.
The parts total with shipping cost about $70 unfortunately, and that was through ECS so it was half the cost of actually ordering it through BMW.

On a side note, I've got the loom installed and it works perfectly so I can verify first hand those parts fit the X9331 like a glove.

Greg
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 11:57 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by OmniDynmc
The parts total with shipping cost about $70 unfortunately, and that was through ECS so it was half the cost of actually ordering it through BMW.

On a side note, I've got the loom installed and it works perfectly so I can verify first hand those parts fit the X9331 like a glove.

Greg
Wow, thats a bit pricey for a set of molex connectors, but I guess it's a price vs. demand thing. Anyone considered just eliminating the x9331 and using insulated crimp on connections?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 02:07 PM
  #116  
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I plan on using the T-Taps. They aren't insulated w/ the gel but some electrical tape should do the trick.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 07:23 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by euells
Wow, thats a bit pricey for a set of molex connectors, but I guess it's a price vs. demand thing. Anyone considered just eliminating the x9331 and using insulated crimp on connections?

Peace of mind for not having to cut into the factory wires: Priceless.



Greg
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by OmniDynmc
Peace of mind for not having to cut into the factory wires: Priceless.



Greg
Excellent point - I even used taps to install my speakers so that the originals can go back in if I ever decide to sell or trade. Can you send me the ordering info (or just post it here)?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by euells
Excellent point - I even used taps to install my speakers so that the originals can go back in if I ever decide to sell or trade. Can you send me the ordering info (or just post it here)?
The part numbers are on page #4 in this thread and the company I got them from is ECS Tuning (www.ecstuning.com). Just make sure you call the number at the top and order the parts you need by phone, their shipping weight prices are off on the pins w/ wires already on them.

Greg
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:30 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by OmniDynmc
The part numbers are on page #4 in this thread and the company I got them from is ECS Tuning (www.ecstuning.com). Just make sure you call the number at the top and order the parts you need by phone, their shipping weight prices are off on the pins w/ wires already on them.

Greg
Don't know how I missed the earlier post - but thanks!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #121  
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ordered a USS8 today... cant wait for a little bass..next to find the wires to tap...already did the speaker wire swap (non hifi)...

rest sounds like cake
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by iwashmycar
ordered a USS8 today... cant wait for a little bass..next to find the wires to tap...already did the speaker wire swap (non hifi)...

rest sounds like cake
Excellent Choice You won't be sorry!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:13 PM
  #123  
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I just test fitted the Boss Bass1200 - it's a perfect fit and I mean perfect. The back seat and the metal clasp on the rear part of the boot (bumper side) hold it in exactly the perfect spot.

I just need some good weather to do all this work!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:37 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by toolazyforalogin
I just test fitted the Boss Bass1200 - it's a perfect fit and I mean perfect. The back seat and the metal clasp on the rear part of the boot (bumper side) hold it in exactly the perfect spot.

I just need some good weather to do all this work!
We want pictures!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #125  
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niiiice. you probably have to actually put in an amplifier wiring kit for a 12 though right?
 
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