Navigation & Audio Splitting the 6x9 Wires for Subs
Splitting the 6x9 Wires for Subs
Does anyone have tips on splitting the 6x9 wires to give signal to the amp for the trunk located subwoofers?
Do some people forget about the 6x9's or how do you go about wiring both the 6x9's and the subwoofers. Tips please!
(07' R56 MCS)
Do some people forget about the 6x9's or how do you go about wiring both the 6x9's and the subwoofers. Tips please!
(07' R56 MCS)
If the amplifier has speaker-level inputs, all you have to do is tap into the four rear speaker wires (R+, R-, L+, L-) and connect them to the amp.
Since you'll be installing subwoofers, you might want to install high-pass filters on your interior speakers so that they're not trying to play the low bass notes (since you'll have the subs for that). Look up "Bass Blockers" on www.crutchfield.com to find out more, but they're simple passive crossovers that you install in-line with your interior speakers.
Since you'll be installing subwoofers, you might want to install high-pass filters on your interior speakers so that they're not trying to play the low bass notes (since you'll have the subs for that). Look up "Bass Blockers" on www.crutchfield.com to find out more, but they're simple passive crossovers that you install in-line with your interior speakers.
Well i have read the line out converter has poor sound. It seems like most Subwoofer set ups, people have been using the 6x9 speakers. Any reccomendations on anything else?
I just want some thump! Haha
I just want some thump! Haha
I just posted my test results, measuring the degree of suck in the rear channels.
Robin, you might find them interesting! Your comments in other threads got me to do this testing.
Quick summary: With the response at 2KHz as a reference, the rear level signal is down 3dB at 100 Hz, and down 30dB at 20Hz!
You aren't going to connect a sub to that, at least not if you want it to do anything!
You'll need to connect to the front speakers.
Robin, you might find them interesting! Your comments in other threads got me to do this testing.
Quick summary: With the response at 2KHz as a reference, the rear level signal is down 3dB at 100 Hz, and down 30dB at 20Hz!
You aren't going to connect a sub to that, at least not if you want it to do anything!
You'll need to connect to the front speakers.
The 30 dB attenuation at 20 Hz means that the signal only has one-thousandth of the power that it did at 2 kHz (in other words, by the time you get down to 20 Hz, virtually no signal is making it to the speaker at all.)
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From what's going on in other threads, it looks like our best candidate for picking up good speaker signals (or at least as good as they get) is the X9331 connector, which is located ahead of the driver's door.
Follow the action in the "Frequency Response" thread to see how this one develops, but it looks pretty promising.
Follow the action in the "Frequency Response" thread to see how this one develops, but it looks pretty promising.
Yeah ive heard those are to be the best signals. But what if i went to the stock amp, and took out the input for those speakers and put them into my new amp. (the output being my new subs).
or tapping into them...would that be even better?
or tapping into them...would that be even better?
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