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How is the FX100 holding up, how many miles? I just had my shop put in a FX100 with a steel FW. We agreed they were going to do the aluminum one but they ordered and installed the wrong one.
Can you give me your thoughts on your FX100 w steel fw?
How is the FX100 holding up, how many miles? I just had my shop put in a FX100 with a steel FW. We agreed they were going to do the aluminum one but they ordered and installed the wrong one.
Can you give me your thoughts on your FX100 w steel fw?
The FX100 with steel flywheel is very much a stock replacement, but with a little extra holding capacity. I really like it, since my car is a daily driver. It very much has a stock feel when just cruising around town. Then, when i throw it in sport mode and turn off TCS, I can pop the clutch pedal and it just grabs. In full on mode, I can chirp the tires shifting into third. I've been very pleased with the choice to go with this set up.
Just replaced my shift **** and boot with a GP2 **** and boot. My trim ring had broken, and wasn't holding in the center console anymore, so I went and purchased the GP2 version. Dropped right in. Also, since it had been so long since I had the OEM **** in my car, I decided to try it out for a while. Then, decided to stick with it. The OEM **** just feels right.
A couple recent changes:
- Replaced the Raceseng shift **** with a GP2 ****-boot combo.
- Replaced the Megan Racing coilovers with Bilstein B14 set.
- Added H&R 22m rear sway bar.
Now, we just need some better weather to move in for the season so I can get some new pictures...
Added "Poor-Man's" GP2 front brake conversion. BMW sport calipers
I have a lot of questions so I'll just fire away:
Fronts:
What did you use for caliper brackets? GP2, Reboot Eng?
Rotors?
Rear:
I know you had JCW rotors/caliper brackets swapped - any change? I don't even know if GP stuff is different, but the E82 stuff is (and isn't compatible due to handbrake setup)
Misc:
Master cyl - which version are you running?
Can I request a review & comparison vs JCW?
I just came back to edit my post after seeing that haha.
135i Sport calipers, painted red, of course.
Reboot Engineering conversion brackets.
ECS GP2 braided brake lines.
Cheap ceramic pads from RockAuto.
18mm spacers to clear my Miata wheels.
I have a GP2 master cylinder, but it hasn't been installed. Pedal effort is roughly same as stock - so close that I can't tell a difference on my daily drives. I will have to get the car coded for JCW Sport Brake Retrofit.
I used cheap coated GP2 rotors from RockAuto
I'd be interested to run some F/R bias calcs on the different MCs to see if it's wacky without the GP master, but I'm too lazy to look up all the info.
I have a lot of questions so I'll just fire away:
Fronts:
What did you use for caliper brackets? GP2, Reboot Eng?
Rotors?
Rear:
I know you had JCW rotors/caliper brackets swapped - any change? I don't even know if GP stuff is different, but the E82 stuff is (and isn't compatible due to handbrake setup)
Misc:
Master cyl - which version are you running?
Can I request a review & comparison vs JCW?
Fronts are BMW Sport calipers with the Reboot brackets, ECS GP2 stainless brake lines, and GP2 rotors. Rears are S calipers, JCW brackets, and JCW rotors. JCW rear brakes are exactly the same as the GP2 ones. I am still on my S master cylinder, and I don’t see a need for the bigger GP2 master.
I can’t compare my setup to the Clubman JCW 4-pot brakes since I never had those installed. I went from the Cooper S brakes right to the big guys. Compared to the S brakes, these things will S T O P and give great modulation. I am dealing with sticky rear calipers, so my rear pads are wearing a bit faster than they probably should. I don’t think it’s related to any bias issues with the S master cylinder.
I just came back to edit my post after seeing that haha.
I'd be interested to run some F/R bias calcs on the different MCs to see if it's wacky without the GP master, but I'm too lazy to look up all the info.
I know the GP2 master has a bigger diameter, but not sure if the F/R bias is any different. The only way for me to know would be to install it….
Thanks for the info. I know I'm basically alone when I say that even with crap pads, I find my R56 S brakes feel/work great for daily duty and autox.
That said, the car needs pads/rotors and the calipers are crusty and I think one of the rears needs a rebuild anyway.
Given the ease/cost of the two upgrade paths I may as well do one of them.
With my stage 2 tune, the stock S brake felt just OK. I was using Akebono pads, too, which are not crappy. They provided good modulation, low dust, decent fade resistant. Now, with the GP2 brakes and Dynamic Friction 5000 ceramics, these things will haul down. There really is no comparison to the S brakes.
Nice addition to the Clubby! Once you've upgraded the brakes on these it's pretty much impossible to go back to the stock S brakes for any length of time. Don't get me wrong. The S brakes with good pads and stainless lines work great, especially if running smaller diameter rims for autox. Once you've upgraded though the difference really is night and day.
P.S. A bath makes the Mini run smoother and faster. Reduced drag and all
Nice addition to the Clubby! Once you've upgraded the brakes on these it's pretty much impossible to go back to the stock S brakes for any length of time. Don't get me wrong. The S brakes with good pads and stainless lines work great, especially if running smaller diameter rims for autox. Once you've upgraded though the difference really is night and day.
P.S. A bath makes the Mini run smoother and faster. Reduced drag and all
I definitely weighed all the consequences of the decision to go GP2 brakes. The S brakes were OK, and I liked running the smaller winter wheels. Fender clearance with the spacers was up there too. In the end for me was performance. With the engine tune, I was starting to feel like street performance needed to be a little bit better without having to resort to semi-metallic road/track pads. Now, I can run ceramic street pads, and still out brake an S without worrying about any amount of fade. Plus, they look stellar behind those MX-5 wheels
Curious, what did you do with the control module for the factory DRL setup? I have a pair of the factory DRLs, but they're useless without the control module....which, of course, is NLA. As seems to be the case with many of the Gen II items. Can't find the shift boot trim ring anywhere for love or money, and that's super annoying for an item that's designed to break when disassembled/removed.
The OEM LED fog lights were sold off as a package. I replaced them with some 4" Jeep LED lights. Got them mounted to the OEM fog light bracket, and wired the halo ring to the parking light wires, and the fog to the fog wires. I then coded the car to run just the halo / parking light for DRL. Works like stock, and looks like stock - unless you know
I bought the ZIZA kit from ECS but theirs does not illuminate the halo ring for DRL function. I've never attempted coding, no idea if that's possible to activate that feature using an aftermarket light set.
I bought the ZIZA kit from ECS but theirs does not illuminate the halo ring for DRL function. I've never attempted coding, no idea if that's possible to activate that feature using an aftermarket light set.